Figure 1.--All that we know about this boy is that he was from Richmondm Virginia. The CDV portrait would have been taken during or right after the Civil War. He wears a white dress with small collar bow and a huge waistband. His dress is white. The waistband is a dark color, but I doubt thst it was black. He also has ruffled pantaletts and white stockings. .

Pantalettes were commonly worn by American boys, especially boys still wearing dresses and younger boys wearing tunics during the first half of the 19th Century. Older boys wearing tunics would wear long trousers. Of course boys wearing dresses never wore trousers under them. Boys in skeleton suits also occasionally wore pantalettes. I believe the American fashion trends with pantalettes were mostly a reflection of European styles, probably English or perhaps French. Pantalettes were still worn after mid-century, but they became less increasingly less common. In the latter oart of the Century the boys still wearing pantalettes were boys wearing dresses are the increasingly common kilt suits and other kilted outfits. There are many literary references to pantalettes in America. A good example is Mark Twain's description of Becky Thacher. Almost always they are described as part of a girl's outfit. Tom Sawyer of course would not have been caught dead in them. We know from available images, however, that they were worn by American boys as well as girls. There appear to have been social class and regional differences associated with pantalettes. Boys in wealthy families were most likely to wear them, especially the fancier styles. In addition they were most common in the more urbanized Eastern seaboard cities. The work of American primitive art, however, claerly shows that pantalettes were also worn in more rural areas, but the plainer styles appear nost common there. Many of the images showing boys wearing pantalettes loaded in the pantalette section are American boys. This is not because pantalettes were more common in America, but rather because of HBC's greater access to American materials.

Popularity

Pantalettes were commonly worn by American boys in the early and mid-19th century. Many of the images showing boys wearing pantalettes loaded in the pantalette section are American boys. This is not because pantalettes were more common in America, but rather because of HBC's greater access to American materials.

Accompanying Clothing

Pantalettes were quite common for boys still wearing dresses and younger boys wearing tunics during the first half of the 19th Century. We also see boys wearing kilt suits with pantalettes, although it is often difficult to tell. It is not easy to tell if boys wearing tunics were wearing pantalettes or trousers. This is especially the case because we see boys wearing white pants thank look rather like plain drawers. A good example is a New York boy. Older boys wearing tunics would wear long trousers. Of course boys wearing dresses never wore trousers under them. Boys in skeleton suits also occasionally wore pantalettes. American boys usually wore them with long stockings. We note European boys wearing them with socks, but this was less common in America.

European Influence

I believe the American fashion trends with pantalettes were mostly a reflection of European styles, probably English or perhaps French.

Chronology

Pantalettes seem to have been primarily a 19th century fashion. We have, however, little informstion on the 18th centuty.Pantalettes were widely worn by American children in the first half of the 19th century. Both girls a boys wore them, at least boys not yet breeched. Gradually boys' pantalettes become plainer, but this convedntionvaried frfom family to family. Pantalettes were very common through the 1850s. Pantalettes during the early 19th century could be quite long, covering the entire leg. We think this was mostly among urban families. We are less sure about rural areas. Pantalettes were still commonly worn after mid-century, especially the 50s. We still see them in the 60s, particularly the early 60s. They begin tio decline notably by the end of the decade and the early 70s. We continue to see them in the late-19th, but they became increasingly less common. In the latter oart of the Century the boys still wearing pantalettes were boys wearing dresses are the increasingly common kilt suits and other kilted outfits. Pantalettes not only becone less common,but they also becoe shorter. Pantalettes quickly disappear after the turn-of-the 20th century.

Color and Patterns

We do not know a lot about pantalettes colors and patterns because of our fairly limited archive of images. Most pantalettes we note are white. And we are fairly confident that this was the case. But we know that not all pantalettes were white. We think that there were some colored pantalettes, but they were much less common than the white ones. The black and white photography of the day makes it difficult to assess colors other than white. Dark colors were very rare. We also note a few pantalettes done in patterns. These almost always were done in the same pattern as the dress the child was wearing. Almost always these patterened pantalettes were to be worn with dresses and not tinics or kilt suits. We do not note them being worn with Highland kilt outfits, but suspect that un America some were, but worn so that they could not be seen.

Age

Gender

We know from available images, however, that they were worn by American boys as well as girls. A good example is two New York City children, presumably brother and sister, we think in the 1840s.

Social Class

There appear to have been social class and regional differences associated with pantalettes. Boys in wealthy families were most likely to wear them, especially the fancier styles. In addition they were most common in the more urbanized Eastern seaboard cities. The work of American primitive art, however, claerly shows that pantalettes were also worn in more rural areas, but the plainer styles appear nost common there.

Literary References

There are many literary references to pantalettes in America. A good example is Mark Twain's description of Becky Thacher. Almost always they are described as part of a girl's outfit. Tom Sawyer of course would not have been caught dead in them.

Created: 3:51 AM 2/14/2007
Last updated: 4:04 AM 10/24/2009