Figure 1.-- This CDV portrait shows two brothers wearing suits. They look to be about 6-8 years old. They are age graded suits. The younger brother wears a velvet cut-away jacket with bloomer knickers and white long stockings. There looks to be embroideryon thr pants. His older brother ears a lapel jacket and long trousers. The boys war low-cut shoes. The CDV is undated, but we would guess was taken in the 1860s, although the early-70s is possible. The CDV has pointed corners but no ruling. The studio was H.J Whitlock (by special appointment to the Queen) in Birmingham.

Many English boys wore knicker-length pants that look different than proper knickers. The seem to be done with a drawstring closure rather than buttons or straps. And some seem to be made from a lighter material than the material commonly used for pants and trousers. we see this in some other European countries as well. We believe these bloomer knickers appeared in the 1850s, but we have few images to substantiate this. We see these pants until the turn-of-the 20th century, byt they rapidly disappear in the 1900s decade. English Dags and Ambros are not very common. This changes with the 1860s when large numbers of CDVs become available. And we have detailed information about pants styles. Bloomer knickers were also worn on the Continent. Chronologies and popularity were a little different. These pants are one way of differentiating between English and American portraits. American boys almost always wore straight-leg knee pants, although we do see the bloomer knickers in the 1860s. There were also bloomer knickers subsequently, but unlike England they were not very common. This was just the oppisite of the situation in England. We also see younger Englih boys wearing straight-leg knee pants. We see both in the late-19th century. After the turn-of the century, straight-leg knee pants and then short pants became standard. The jacket styles were very similar. Commonly the country can not be identifie by the jacket, but there were differences in the pabts or as the British would say the trousers. The age conventions over shifting to long pants were similar, but this difference between straight-leg knee pants and bloomer knickers was very destinctive and continued throughout the scond half of the 19th century.

Characteristics

Many English boys wore knicker-length pants that look different than proper knickers. The seem to be done with a drawstring closure rather than buttons or straps. And some seem to be made from a lighter material than the material commonly used for pants and trousers. This varied over time.

Terminology

We are not sure what these pants were called in Britain. We do note the term 'knickes' being used in the early-20th century to mean short pants and we think straigh-leg knee pants. We also note the term 'knickerbockers' used to mean what Americans called knickers. Curiously, the standard meaning of 'knickers' by the mid-0th century had become girl's panties. Here we are not sure about etomological process.

Chronology

we see this in some other European countries as well. We believe these bloomer knickers appeared in the 1850s, but we have few images to substantiate this. We see these pants until the turn-of-the 20th century, byt they rapidly disappear in the 1900s decade. English Dags and Ambros are not very common. This changes with the 1860s when large numbers of CDVs become available. And we have detailed information about pants styles. Bloomer knickers were also worn on the Continent. Chronologies and popularity were a little different. These pants are one way of differentiating between English and American portraits. Bllomer knickers were muchj more common in England than America. American boys more commonly wore straight-leg knee pants. We see knee panhts in England as well, but bloomer knickers and standards knickers seem much more common in the 19th centutry. The boy here is an example. Another good example is the Grange/Smith boys in the 1860s. We see both in the late-19th century. We also see younger Englih boys wearing straight-leg knee pants, but not as many as thiose wearing knickers. After the turn-of the century, straight-leg knee pants and then short pants became standard.

Other Countries

We see these bloomer knickers widely worn in European countries as well, especially in Western Europe. . American boys almost always wore straight-leg knee pants, although we do see the bloomer knickers in the 1860s. There were also bloomer knickers subsequently, but unlike England they were not very common. This was just the opposite of the situation in England. Commonly the jacket styles in vrious countries. Tthe country often can not be identified by the jacket, but there were differences in the pants or as the British would say the trousers.

Ages

The age conventions vaied over time. Of course it was the younger boys who wire bloomer knickers. But the actual age convetions varied over time and among countries. And this also varied by country. This meant that the age boys shifted to long pants varies, And of course thaere were differences from country to country. Generally speaking the age at which boys shifted to long pants were the same for both bloomer knickers and knee pants. This was very destinctive and continued throughout the scond half of the 19th century. The first images we see in the 1850s are very young, we believe are pre-school boys. Then by the 1860s-70s we see younger primary-age boys wearing bloomer knickers, say boys to 7-8 years of age. This varied by family. We see some noys wearing long pants from the earliest school ages. Here it gets more complicated. We see younger teen boys wearing knickers, often as part of school uniforms. They may be actual knickers rather tham bloomer knickers. It is a little difficult to tell from photographic images. We do notice boys wearing tunics with bloomer knickers. we see boys including early teens wearing bloomer knickers on the contiment. We do not see that in Britin and America.

Garments

Created: 12:36 AM 9/7/2015
Last updated: 12:36 AM 9/7/2015