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We do not yet have enough information and Serbian images to build a chronology of fashion trends in the country. But as we acquire more images, we hope to do so. We suspect that fashion trends in the medieval era were similar to Italy and Byzantium before the Ottoman conquest, but our information is very limited. Conquest by the Ottomans introduced new fashion trends. The fact that most Serb remained Christain probably limited the Ottoman fashion impact at least to some extent. It certainly did not insulate the Serbs from Ottoman influences. We do not yet have information on fashion trends during this period. Some information becomes available in the 19th century as Serbia began to move toward first autonomy and then independence. The country because of the Ottoman influence was one of the most diverse countries in Europe, in ethnic, religious, and cultural terms. The Ottoman Empire during the medieval period was much more tolerant of other religions than Christian Europen. Not tolerant by modern standards, but crtainly by medieval standards. This differential, however, began to change by the enligtenment (18th century). And by the 19th century the Ottoman Empire was begoming increasingly less tolerant and increasingly affected by Turkish nationalism ans it had to deal with rising Christian resistance. The Serbian Revolution for independence began during the Napoleonic Wars (1804). The first campaign lasted 11 years (1804-15). As a result of two separate campaigns, Serbia gained autonomy within the Ottoman Empire (1835). This led to a further struggle for indepependence (1835-67). Autonomy and eventually independence inevitably has an impact on fashion. Much of this occurred after the invention of photography (1839) and eventually we begin to see photographic images emnerging from the Balkans, especially after independence movements in Serbia and other Christian nations through off Ottoman control and expanded contacts with Europe. And we begin to see images of Serbs, especially in the cities, dressed in fashions largely indestinguishable from the rest of Europe. Independent Serbia in the late-19th century was a largely agricultureal country and there were major differences between dress in the growing cities where Western styles were common and the still very traditionsl countryside. We notice Serbian rural peasants wearing destictive traditional clothing while the country's at first small urban population eagerly adopting European fashions. We are not entirely sure which countries were the most important fashion influence, but suspect that France and Austria were the primary influences. We have far more information on the 20th century. There is a very substantial photographic record to work with. The fashion history of the 20th century is the spread of modern European styles into the countryside. As late as World War II there were still important differences that did not change until after the war.
We suspect that fashion trends in the medieval era were similar to Italy and Byzantium before the Ottoman conquest, but our information is very limited. Conquest by the Ottomans introduced new fashion trends. The fact that most Serb remained Christain probably limited the Ottoman fashion impact at least to some extent. It certainly did not insulate the Serbs from Ottoman influences. We do not yet have information on fashion trends during this period. Some information becomes available in the 19th century as Serbia began to move toward first autonomy and then independence. The country because of the Ottoman influence was one of the most diverse countries in Europe, in ethnic, religious, and cultural terms. The Ottoman Empire during the medieval period was much more tolerant of other religions than Christian Europen. Not tolerant by modern standards, but cartainly by medieval standards.
This differential, however, began to change by the Enlightenment (18th century).
And by the 19th century the Ottoman Empire was begoming increasingly less tolerant and increasingly affected by Turkish nationalism ans it had to deal with rising Christian resistance. Fashion in Serbia becomes ties up with historical developments, especially the struggle for independence. The Serbian Revolution for independence began during the Napoleonic Wars (1804). The ideas spawned by the French Revolution, penetrated into the Ottoman Empire, at least Christian people within the Empire. The first Independence campaign lasted 11 years (1804-15). As a result of two separate campaigns, Serbia gained autonomy within the Ottoman Empire (1835). This led to a further struggle for indepependence (1835-67). Autonomy and eventually independence inevitably has an impact on fashion. Much of this occurred after the invention of photography (1839) allthought not for two decades. Eventually we begin to see photographic images emerging from the Balkans (1860s). After independence movements in Serbia and other Christian nations through off Ottoman control and expanded contacts with Europe. And we begin to see images of Serbs, especially in the cities, dressed in fashions largely indestinguishable from the rest of Europe. Independent Serbia in the late-19th century was a largely agricultureal country and there were major differences between dress in the growing cities where Western styles were common and the still very traditionsl countryside. We notice Serbian rural peasants wearing destictive traditional clothing while the country's at first small urban population eagerly adopting European fashions. We are not entirely sure which countries were the most important fashion influence, but suspect that France and Austria were the primary influences on Serbia.
As with most countries we have far more information on the 20th century. There is a very substantial photographic record to work with, both portraits and family snapshots. The portraits we see show fashionable Western styles, at last among the well-to-do urban elite. The less affluent showed a more mixed fashion picture. They were, however, less likely to be photographed. Serbia was one of the countries most affected by World War I. Extensise damage was done throughout the country. For the most part we do not begin to see snapshots until after World War I in the 1920s. This is important as snapshots begin to cover a wider social and economic swath of society. We see the same fashion trends in Serbia as we see in the rest of Europe, at least with Western-style clothing. A factor in Serbia is that it was a largely poor agriultural country. Many Serbs could not afford fashionable clothing. We see large numbers of barefoot children in the earl-20th century. We see many Serbian children wearing styles that seem influenced by German styles. Germany before World War II had a very large and influential fashion industry. The Serbian fashion history of the 20th century is also concerned with the spread of modern European styles into the countryside. As late as World War II there were still important differences that did not change until after the War.
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