Figure 1.-- This is page 701 of the 'Delineator' (November 1901). We are not sure when they began adding color plates in 'Delineator', but we suspect this was one of the earlier ones. The illustration samples some of the winter patterns offered at the time. 'Delineator' desceribes them as "Early winter styles for misses and children." They seem primarily for girls and young ladies, but the three juveniles garments were described as suitable for both boys and girls. The items are numbered from left to right regaerdless of the row.

This is page 701 of the Delineator (November 1901). We are not sure when they began adding color plates in Delineator, but we suspect this was one of the earlier ones. The illustration samples some of the winter patterns offered at the time. Delineator desceribes them as "Early winter styles for misses and children." They seem primarily for girls and young ladies, but the three juveniles garments were described as suitable for both boys and girls. We have found some of the accimpsnying Delineator text describing the garments.

Deleniatior

The Delineator was founded and closely associated with Butterick Company--one of the most well known companies making home sewing patterns. According to Metropolitan Monthly [February 1874], the Butterick company started printing patterns in 1865, issuing a Metropolitan Monthly as a means of illustrating and advertising their patterns. In 1872 they started publishing their Delineator to provide more scope in a larger publication for there patterns with many more pictures in all categories and sizes. It included other information about fashion and home. The Delineator achieved immediate popularity at a cost of 15 cents per issue or a years subscription offered at $1.50 that included a choice of bonus patterns to a value of $1.00. Prices of individual patterns ranged from 20 cents to 40 cents with a deluxe version sometimes reaching $1.50. By 1883, the circulation was 155,000 copies per month, and 10 years later in 1893 it had reached the staggering number of 500,000. Circulation was worldwide, including 85 countries in such exotic and out of the way places as Ceylon, Chile, Hong Kong, Congo, Curacao, Fiji Islands, Siam, etc. In 1905 the Delineator was still selling for 15 centsd per copy, the same as 1872. According to the same article Butterick was producing about 15,000 patterns a day, and sending them out to all the places mentioned.' The Delineator was graphically reserved, and used stylized representations of contemporary women. It was run by the inventors of the pattern and initiated the fusion of the sewing pattern and magazines. The Delineator, as with most fashion magazines, primarily focused on women's fashions. There was for the time, however, unprecented coverage of children's fashions--including boys' clothes. The magazine is the single most important source of information on late 19th and early 20th Century children's fashions.

Tunics

The tunic was another popular style for younger boys. We do not see the tunic suit to any great cextent in the 1890s. And we are not sure precisely when the tunic suit appeared. It had to be around the turn-of-the 20th century. We see it being widely worn throughout the 1900s. A good example is a Delineator pattern (November 1901). This is oner if the earlier tunic items we have found in catalogs and advertisements. The tunic suit shown here was made in a heavy material for winter wear. The photographic record tends tio show more summer tunic outfits, but here Delinearor offers tunic styling for winter coats.

Garments Offered

Four Garments were displayed on the Delineator cover. The cover samples some of the winter patterns offered at the time. Figures Nos. 195 B, 196B, 197B, 198B and 199B are desribed as 'Early winter styles for misses and children". They seem primarily for girls and young ladies, but at the three juvenile styles are descrivbed as Delineator as suitavke for both boys and girls. The tunic suit at the bottomn left was described as a 'box coat' for boys and girl, but as fashions trends developed, it was boys who mostly wore these tunics outfits.

195B

This is the maroon tunic outfit at the lower left (figure 1). We thought at first that this was a boy's tunic suit. Note the matching cap which seems suitable for a boy. Delieneator describes this, however, as a coat that a boy or girl might have worn and the model despite the ringlet curls seems to be a boy. (This is confirmed by the horse pull toy.) I think by coat this means that this was outerwear and the child would have worn an outfit underneath. The Delineator text read, "Figure No. 195 B.—- Child's Long Coat. A jaunty coat for little girls or boys is here shown. The pattern, which is No. 5469 and costs 9d. or 20 cents, is in seven sizes from two to eight years and is pictured again on page 716. Maroon velvet was employed to make this coat, a white leather belt and gilt buttons affording contrast. The garment is in Russian style with a diagonal closing, and at the lower part of the side seams an under box-plait is arranged. A turn-over collar is at the neck, and the regulation coat sleeves are completed with turn-back cuffs. Tan satin-faced cloth will provide a smart coat, and fur band may be used for trimming. Covert, cheviot, serge and all the new suiting materials are recommended."

196B

This is the red sailor coat at tghe upper left. We at first thought it was a girl's coat. Delineator tells us that it suitable for both boys and girls. The hat, shown, however, would hsve only been worn by girls. The Delineator text read, "Figure No. 196 B. -— Child's Three-Quarter Coat. This pictures a Child's coat. The pattern, which is No. 5485 and costs 6d. or 15 cents, is in seven sizes from two to eight years of age, and is again represented on page 717. Red in all shades is to be much worn by juveniles this season, and a smart coat exhibiting this fancy is here shown in cloth of a scarlet shade, contrasted with white cloth decorated with braid. The mode, which is in three-quarter length and is known as the box reefer, is suitable for boys' and girls' wear. The back and double-breasted fronts suggest the box varieties, and the neck is shaped to accommodate a sailor collar having broad front ends. Square-cornered laps conceal the openings to pockets, and the sleeves are stitched to cuff depth. The shield and standing collar are of the white cloth, covered with rows of braid. Blue cloth, with a collar of lace applique in one of the yellow or ecru shades, will make a pretty coat, and the shield and collar can be of blue silk. Another development would be in Russian green cheviot, with large fancy buttons. A band or stitched pannel or taffetf could be used to edge the sailor collar; velvet is also used extensively."

197B

This is decribes as a 'Misses Eton Costume". We assumme costume meant a dress rather than a coat. We are not sure why it is described as a 'Eton' costume, perhaps it was the short jacket affect. It was for teen age girls, 14-17 years of age.

198B

We at first thought this was a girls' coat, but Delineator tells us it was suitable for both boys and girls. Delineator describes it as, "Figure No. 198 B.—- Child's French Coat. This represents a Little Girls' or Boys' coat. The pattern, which is No. 5432 and costs 9d. or 20 cents, is in five sizes from three to seven years of age. Box-plaits give a distinctive air to this coat which is equally suitable for boys and girls. In its development cloth in one of the new blue shades was associated with tucked silk and velvet. The body is long, in French style and has box-plaits both back and front. A closing is arranged a little to the left of the centre, and above the closing revers are formed that meet the ends of the rolling collar, the whole outlining the removable shield topped by a standing collar. A belt conceals the joining of the bodv and skirt, the latter being also box-plaited. Turn-back cuffs complete the sleeve-, which have slight gathered fulness at the top. This style of garment makes up well in serge, cheviot, covert or broadcloth, while for more dressy wear velvet or velveteen may be chosen with all-over lace for the shield and cuffs. A jaunty little mode was of light-gray melton of medi\um weight, with fur band trimmings. "

199B

This is the girl's grey coat, described as a 'long coat'. It was done in sizes 5 to 12 years.

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Last updated: 7:13 PM 1/7/2011