Figure 1.-- Here we see three unidentified siblings. The portrait is undated, but would have been taken in the 1910s. The younger girl has a hair bow and the older sister a very fancy hat. the older sister also has a cameo. The only major difference in the very similar dresses is the length of the skirt. The children look to be about 10-18 years old. There was a postcard back photo with a message on the back. The sender (presumably on of the children, signed the post card, but the signature is difficult to read. It looks like Lettie B. Mussel?.

We begin to see substantial changes in girls clothing during the 1910s. Here World War I. was major factor driving change. Although stylistic changes began during the 1910, well-to-do women wore fancy dresses and so did their daughters. We see the same fancy outfits and elaborate hats, although hair bows, sometimes gigantic, became extraordinarily popular with girls, including teenagers (1910s). Girls conducted a virtual arms race to see who could have the largest bow. We also see a variety of hats, some highly decorated. Turned down bims were popular. Long hair was praised. All girls wore skirted garments. dresses. It was virtually the only basic garment girls wore. Virtually the only exception were the bloomers girls wore for high school gym. While the dress was the basic woman's garment, working women tended to wear a blouse and skirt. At school we see far more girls wearing dresses than blouses and skirts. Long stockings were standard. Both boys and girls wore black long stockings, the girls and younger boys sometimes also wore white stockings. Footwear was more varied than that of the boys. We see both low-tops and high top shoes. All this began to change with World War I (1914-18). The War emergency made the frivolity of pre-War fashion seem absurd. And for the first time we see women wearing pants which became very common in war plants. Women and girls worked in mills, industrial factories were the mainstay of men and boys--but by the 1910s boys were being phased out. And in factories women wore work clothes--commonly pants. Such practical matters rose in importance and we begin to see affecting fashion after the War.

Decade Trends

The 1910s were dominated by massive industrial expansion fueled by Henry Ford's Tin Lizzy -- the new automobile industry led to the expansion of major industrial sectors and the creation of new ones. No other country experienced the same expansion. The 19th century had been a period of enormous technological change. The RMS Titanic disaster symbolized the limits of technological advances. Unsinkable vessels could sink, although radio saved many victims. America completed the Panama Canal -- a technological marvel (1914). The Canal connecting the Atlantic and Pacific Oceans, greatly aiding global trade. Progressive reforms and World War I had major impacts leading to significant social, economic and political shifts. The Triangle Shirtwaist Factory Fire in New York City, killed 146 young women highlighted the dangers of unregulated working conditions. Former President Roosevelt's Bull Moose effort split the Republican Party leading to the election of Democratic candidate Woodrow Wilson (1912). Wilson expanded Progressive reforms, including the creation of the Federal Reserve System (1913), and the launching Prohibition. Wilson also focused on working conditions, child labor, government corruption, social inequality, trusts (monopolies), and taxation (to both increase revenue and to address iniquities). One issue President Wilson did not address was racial justice. Congress passed the Clayton Anti-Trust Act (1914). The 16th Amendment which established the federal income tax (1913). President Wilson was adamant about remaining neutral when Germany launched World War I (1914). Britain understood the importance of America, Germany did not. This they gave minimal attention to neutral opinion, invading neutral Belgium, sinking civilian vessels like RMS Lusitania, atrocities, poison gas, and seizing civilian food supplies. Despite military successes in the East, the Allied naval embargo increasingly impacted the German economy. The Emperor pushed by the General Staff decided on a military solution leading to the the Zimmerman Telegram and the resumption of unrestricted submarine warfare. This led to the United States declaring war on Germany (1917). American involvement led to an explosion in patriotism and the mobilization of American economy, both industry and agriculture. Wilson did not fully understand the Allied need for manpower, but the U.S. set about building an American Army basically from scratch and dispatch an American Expeditionary Force to France, but it would be a year before the AEF would be ready for combat. The collapse of Russia (1917) allowed the Germans to launch a major offensive (1918). The AEF would play a major role in stopping the Germans and in launching the Allied Hundred Days Campaign that won the War. One impact of the War was ending massive European immigration. The need for workers and the brutality of the Jim Crow South led to the launch of the Great Migration, rural African Americans moving to northern cities. The Communist take over in Russia (1917) led to Red Scare (1919) and increased social tensions. The 18th Amendment banned the manufacture, sale, and transportation of alcohol (1919). Gender studies are very popular today in American universities. The course work tends to focus on the iniquities women faced. Rarely do they address the fact that America and Britain led the movement for women's rights in the 19th and early-20th century. The 19th Amendment granted women the right to vote (1920). The expansion of the American economy and rising wages led to creation of Mass Culture. We see new forms of entertainment such as the motion picture industry. Circuses like the Ringling Bros. and Barnum & Bailey Circus became major undertakings. Cards games like like bridge became popular. Youth groups like the Boy Scouts and the Girl Scouts were founded (1910 and 1912). They were supported because they promoted character development and healthy outdoor activities. For the kids, the allure was fun. Scouting was far more popular for boys than girls. Many parents did not think Scouting was suitable for girls. Scouting had a fahion influence. Girls often did not wear dresses for Scouting, especially at camps. .

Split Decade

American fashion in the 1910s can may be divided into two periods: before and during World War I. The War broke out in Europe (1914). The United States remained neutral, but was still impacted by developments in Europe. American fashion was still influenced by European fashion. But the real impact was felt after the United States declare war on Germany (April 1917). The United States adopted polices to ger up for War. There was modest rationing--far less severe than in Europe, but the United States also mobilized its huge industrial economy for war. President appointed Wall Street financier Bernard Baruch to oversee the nation's economic mobilization through the new War Industries Board. The War caused labor shortages, both because of huge Government orders for war material and the drafting of workers for military service. The solution to labor shortages was women. Before the War, the factory floor except textile mills was the preserve of men. For the first time began working in factories. The War had a profound impact on all aspects of society and culture and fashion was very much a part of this. Much of this is primarily attributed to the 1920s Roaring Twenties, but many of those changes appeared in the 1910s, especially the late 1910s. The basic fashion impact was simplicity and practicality. Even more notable than the bob were hair bows. The 1910s were the point of peak popularity for hair bows. Not only were they popular, but many ere huge. They were worn by girls and teenagers. The bows were worn on the top of the head or at the back.

Hair

The popularity of girls bobbing their hair began (early 1910s). Short hair was not unknown earlier, but during the 19th century, long hair was a major beauty and fashion style and very common even for girls. We first see notable figures like dancer Irene Castle and actress Mary Pickford leading the way. Pickford was especially important given the popularity of the new movie industry. The fashion soon began to be adopted by girls. Women and girls bobbing their hair reflected changing social norms, especially the need for convenience. This of course only intensified when America entered the War. It was, however, only in the 1920s that the bob became huge popular with girls. It became a symbol of independence and modernity. The girl's bobs were typically cut straight around the head creating bangs/fringe. The length at the back was about jaw level, but certainly not down to the shoulders. We see a modest example here (figure 1).

Garments

Although stylistic changes began during the 1910, well-to-do women wore fancy dresses and so did their daughters. We see the same fancy outfits and elaborate hats, although hair bows, sometimes gigantic, became extraordinarily popular with girls, including teenagers (1910s). Girls conducted a virtual arms race to see who could have the largest bow. We also see a variety of hats, some highly decorated. Up turned brims were popular. Long hair was praised. All girls wore skirted garments. Dresses were virtually the only basic garment girls wore. Dresses at the beginning of the decade could like the 1900s decade be very fancy with many embellishments. As the decade progressed, we see a move toward greater simplicity even before the outbreak of World War I. Younger girls were beginning to wear dresses that were increasingly plain, looking less like small verions of their moth's dresses. A good example is the smock dress, often worn with a pinafore This had been popular since the 1890s and girls including teenagers continued to wear them, especially during the first half first half of the decade. We begin to see girls wearing shorter cut dresses during the second half of the decade. One source attributes this to material rationing adopted during the war. Dresses not only were shorter, but were plainer with less fancy decoration and fewer embellishment. One fashion historian writes, "By around the WWI era, many girls were wearing plainer dresses that ended above the knee (often showing long knickers underneath!), were fitted at the waist and had three-quarter length sleeves." 【Moore】 Virtually the only exception were the bloomers girls wore for high school gym. While the dress was the basic woman's garment, working women tended to wear a blouse and skirt. At school we see far more girls wearing dresses than blouses and skirts. Stretchy, knitted fabrics were becoming popular for boys and girls. The most prominent garment we note are sweaters. While most popular for boys, we see girls wearing them as well. The 1910s is the first decade that we see large numbers of sweaters. Knitted garments were comfortable, allowing ed for greater freedom of movement. Many mothers knitted them at home. Long stockings were standard hosiery. Both boys and girls wore black long stockings, the girls and younger boys sometimes also wore white stockings. Another exception was Scouting. Footwear was more varied than that of the boys. We see both low-tops and high top shoes. All this began to change with World War I (1914-18). The War emergency made the frivolity of pre-War fashion seem absurd. And for the first time we see women wearing pants which became very common in war plants. Women and girls worked in mills, industrial factories were the mainstay of men and boys--but by the 1910s boys were being phased out. And in factories women wore work clothes--commonly pants. This was not yet common for girls. Such practical matters rose in importance and we begin to see affecting fashion after the War.

Sources

Moore, Jess. "Family potos: What are they wearing?,” internet blog findmypast.co.uk (May 24, 2011).

Created: 11:29 PM 7/27/2022
Last updated: 4:52 PM 10/4/2025