Figure 1.--This CDV portrait show two girls and a yoiunger child who probably is also a girl. We at first were a little incertain because of the cut-away jxket and the distincr center fold in the lower garment. We ythought they might be baggy trousers, but now think they are just a fold in a skirt. The hair style and center part suggests a girl. The CDV has no studio information, but we know it was taken during 1864-66 because it it has a Federal revenue stamp on the back.

The cut-away jacket was primarily a younger boy's suit garment. We have, however, noticed both girls and women wearing them, a much wider age range than was the case for males. An exception here seems tobe Spain where mn did wear these short jackets. There wwre several names for these jackets worn by girls and women. The most common was the bollero jacket. We are not yet sure about the chronology, but hve noted them as early as the 1850s. Thy could have appeared even earlier. Fashion historianns often just describe these jackets as appering in the mid-19th century. What we are not sure about is if this was a woman's fashion adapted for boys or a boy's garment appropriated for girls and women. The term 'bolero' suggests a Spanish origin, as does 'torreador' which is often sometimes used. And the French also used the term'senorita' suggesting a Spanish garment for girls. We also notice the term 'zouave', suggesting a French military origin. Girls and women wire these jackets both over blouses and dress bodicies. What is definitely known is that the cut-away jacket while isppeating for boys bsivlly with the tgurn of the 20th-century is still as fashionable item for women , but not for girls.

Created: 3:48 AM 7/5/2017
Last updated: 3:48 AM 7/5/2017