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One of the most noted figures in men's clothing is Beau Brummell. George
Bryan better known as Beau Brummel was the most famous of the dashing young men
of the Regency. We know little about his childhood at this time. He was not
of aristocratic birth, but was drawn to the upper class life style. After
becoming Prince Regent he became friends with Beau Brummel. While known as a
flashy dresser today, Brummel in fact believed in a much more sober style and
less bright colors. Prinny's approval caused many aristocrats to adopt
Brummel's style. High heels and bright colors for gentlemen went out of style.
Brummel began to regarded in the circles around the Prince as a virtual oracle
on matters related to dress and etiquette. He played a major in popularizing
trousers as opposed to knee breeches.
Beau Brummel was the most famous of the dashing young men of the Regency.
He was not of aristocratic birth, but was drawn to the upper class life style.
He was the son of Lord North's private secretary (1770-82). Lord North was
George III's prime minister who played a major role in the American Revolution.
He was born in London as George Bryan Brummell (1778). I know little about
his childhood at this time. Given his father's position, he must have been
exposed to the aristocracy at an early age. His grandfather was a a humble
shopkeeper in St. James Parish. To earn some extra money, his grandfather
would rent rooms to aristocratic gentlemen which further acquainted George to
aristocrats, how they behaved and dressed. Apparently for some he reason he
even as a boy was struck with how they dressed. I have no details on how
George was dressed as a boy. Given the time, it is likely that he wore
skeleton suits as a boy. This could be part of the reason that when he latter
became the fashion arbiter for Regency England that he promoted trousers over
knee breeches. Brummel was educated at Eton where he became known as Buck and
was extremelly well liked by the other boys. He spent a short period at Oriel College, Oxford. His
literary talent and wit are demonstrated by the fact that he was second for the
Newdigate prize. It was at this time that the Prince Regent who had been told
that Brummel was a witty fellow, obtained an appointment for him in his
regiment (1794). Brummel eventually became a Captain of the Tenth Hussars and
providing him the right to wear a fancy uniform. He became a friend of the
Prince of Wales, the future George IV, who was a good bit older but impressed
with Brummel's wit and dress. He was constantly in the Prince's company.
Because of this relationship and his dress, he began to regarded in the circles
around the Prince as a virtual oracle on matters related to dress and
etiquette--vurtually a court fashion arbiter. He resigned his commission just
as the Napoleonic Wars were beginning (1798). Soon afterwards with the death
of his father he inherited what at the time was a small fortune, about �30,000
(1799). Brummel maintained an elegant establishment in Mayfair (London). Here
his witty remarks became the talk of London society. He was reported an
exceptional story teller and conversationalist. Brummel because of his life
style rapidly depleted his funds. When his money ran out, in part from reckless
gambling, he lost his high-placed friends. He even insulting his friend the
Prince Regent with his biting and sometimes all too accurate wit. Brummel was
forced to leave England for France (1816). Here is timing was impeccable.
Fleeing to France a few years earlier when the Napoleonic Wars were raging
would have been more difficult. The flight to France was necessary, otherwise
he would have been arrested and put in a debtor's prison. He struggled with
debts in France as well. Friends in England helped, even securing an
appointment as British consul in Caen, France (1830-32). He spent a time in a
French debtor's prison until rescued by friends. By this time he was no longer
interested in clothes. He was normally slovenly and always dirty--despite the
fact that he had once been so meticulous about personal cleanliness. He was
taken in by the Asylum du Bon Sauveur, a mendicant hospital in Caen for the
insane (1837). He died a pauper in Caen (1840).
George IV as Prince of Wales, or Prinny as he was called, was quite a
flashy dresser. Indeed he dressed like a typical 18th century dandy. The
Prince turned 21 in 1783. At the time this made him eligible to engage in the
proceedings, including the debates, in the House of Lords. THe Prince for his
first speech showed up in pink high heels which matched the pink satin lining
of his black velvet, gold-embroidered (and pink-spangled) suiting. After
becoming Prince Regent he became friends with Beau Brummel. While known as a
flashy dresser today, Brummel in fact believed in a much more sober style and
less bright colors. Prinny's approval caused many aristocrats to adopt
Brummel's style. High heels and bright colors for gentlemen went out of style.
France for some time, especially with Louis XIV and his successors
dominated European fashions. After the French Revolution (1789) and especially
the Napoleonic Wars (1799-1815), anything French became suspect in England and
this especially included men's but not so much women's fashions. As a result,
English men's fashions became increasingly important in the early 19th century.
It was precisely at this time that Brummel was in his ascendancy as a fashion
arbiter in England. His influence on men's fashions was quite important. He
stressed the cut of the garment and the quality of the fabric rather than fancy
trim which had been very important. He discouraged not only the fancy trim,
but also the bright colors that were popular in the late 18th century. Lord
Byron is reported to have said, that there was nothing really exceptional
about Brummel's dress save �a certain exquisite propriety�. Brummel preferred
simple lines in the garment cut. Brummel also played a major role in
popularizing trousers rather than knee breeches for men. Brummel gave great
attention to neckwear, especially how to tie them.
A typical Regency outfit for day wear was a jacket cut away in front, but with tails at the back. There is no waist seam, a feature present in Victorian coats. The open area around the hip has a distinctive curve pulling slightly
around the waist. Even more notably, the sleeves are particularly long and seated high on the shoulder. There are virtually no shoulder pads. Normally jackets had fabric-covered buttons. An exception was blue jackets with often
had brass metal buttons--perhaps because of an association with military styles. Boys wore tunics and skeleton suits. Girlds wore white Empire dresses often in im muslin.
Beau Brummel is an upscale menswear specialty retailer located in the heart
of Soho, New York. Beau Brummel carries men's clothing including: suits, sport
jackets, slacks and overcoats; sportswear including: casual slacks, sweaters,
knitwear, sport shirts, leathers and outerwear; furnishings including: dress
shirts, ties, socks, belts and accessories.
The life of Beau Brummel has been made into several movies. There was a
silent film in 1924 and another film in 1954. Legendary actor John Barrymore
played Brummel in 1924. The plot has Brummel engaging in a war against high
society when he cannot marry the woman he loves because of his social position,
he becomes a faddish fop. This is not a very good characterization of his
fashion sense. Beau Brummel has been a character in many other films. The 1954 film is a lavishly told costume drama describing how Brummel a commoner during the Napoleonic era through his social skills, especially his sartorial sence, to align himself with the Prince Regent--the future King George IV. Liz Taylor helps enliven the film.
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