Figure 1.--

Although generally classified by most scholars as the last century of the medieval era, the 14th century is generally seen as the beginning of the Renaissance and the beginning of a modern state of mind. The precise time is difficlt to set and of course varied accross Europe. The Renaissance began at Firenze around 1300 and gradually spread north. Even so, the indicators that constitute the Renaissance did not reach other areas of Europe 1-2 centuries. Chaucer wrote his Canterbury Tales in England. The bubonic plague first appeared in Sicily and Europe and spread like wild fire, wihin a year it had reached England. Within 5 years a third of Europeans were dead asa result of the Black Death. The social, politicl, and economic consequences were immeasurable. Not by accident, the Renaissance like the plague also first appeared in Italy and gradually spread north to the other states of Western Europe. Germany wa not only devestated by the Plague, but also the Hundred Years War. The Crusades played an important role in expanding the vision of Medieval Europe leading to the Renaissance. Crusading knights brought with them back to Europe new fabrics, especially silk. This was to fuel the European desire to establish direct trade contacts with China. After the Plague, Europe slowly recovers, As the pace of life quickens in Europe with new ideas and and an expanding economy, so does the pace of fashion change gather speed. Earlier whole centuries went by with virtually no change in fashion. By the 14th centuries there are noticeable change even between decades--although still nothing like moder fashion shifts. Men whon could afford it dressed in coloful, gay clothing. They wore stockings (hose) that were commonly different colors. The edges of their upper garments might be cut into fancy patterns. Many men wore hoods like the ones today worn by frairs. Boys clothing was not differentthan men's clothing only smaller. Many could not afford to adequanrly clothe their children so they would more commonly be barefoot and go without stockings. Women still covered their hair, most commonly with netted frets. Military styles affected fashions, Women adoopted the surcote which Crusaders wore over their armor. The hoods worn by men gradually changed during the century. By the 1360s fashion was becoming increasingly excessive, in part a sign of economic affluence. Hoods (the liripipe) were becoming longer and notably pointed, some worn by nobels and affluent merchants might nearly touch the ground. The stickings or hose underwent a similar change. The feet of the hose worn by stylish gentklemen were extended to exagerated lengths. Women wore surcotes with the sides cut to show off the kirtles they wore underneath. The fashiins excesses such as bright colors and extended hoods and stickings were a matter of concern. In part this was a matter of affluent commonors such as merchants with the money to dress as well as the nobility. In some countries such as Engand, laws were passed regulate fashion. [Crush]

Historical Background

Although generally classified by most scholars as the last century of the medieval era, the 14th century is generally seen as the beginning of the Renaissance and the beginning of a modern state of mind. The precise time is difficlt to set and of course varied accross Europe. The Renaissance began at Firenze around 1300 and gradually spread north. Even so, the indicators that constitute the Renaissance did not reach other areas of Europe 1-2 centuries. Chaucer wrote his Canterbury Tales in England. The only Crusade ever deployed in Europe supressed the Catharists in southern France. The bubonic plague first appeared in Sicily and Europe and spread like wild fire, wihin a year it had reached England. Within 5 years a third of Europeans were dead asa result of the Black Death. The social, politicl, and economic consequences were immeasurable. Not by accident, the Renaissance like the plague also first appeared in Italy and gradually spread north to the other states of Western Europe. Germany was not only devestated by the Plague, but also the Hundred Years War. The Crusades played an important role in expanding the vision of Medieval Europe leading to the Renaissance. Crusading knights brought with them back to Europe new fabrics, especially silk. This was to fuel the European desire to establish direct trade contacts with China. After the Plague, Europe slowly recovers.

Clothing

As the pace of life quickens in Europe with new ideas and and an expanding economy, so does the pace of fashion change gather speed. Earlier whole centuries went by with virtually no change in fashion. By the 14th centuries there are noticeable change even between decades--although still nothing like moder fashion shifts. Men who could afford it dressed in coloful, gay clothing. They wore stockings (hose) that were commonly different colors. The edges of their upper garments might be cut into fancy patterns. Many men wore hoods like the ones today worn by frairs. Boys clothing was not differentthan men's clothing only smaller. Many could not afford to adequanrly clothe their children so they would more commonly be barefoot and go without stockings. Women still covered their hair, most commonly with netted frets. Military styles affected fashions, Women adoopted the surcote which Crusaders wore over their armor. The hoods worn by men gradually changed during the century. By the 1360s fashion was becoming increasingly excessive, in part a sign of economic affluence. Hoods (the liripipe) were becoming longer and notably pointed, some worn by nobels and affluent merchants might nearly touch the ground. The stickings or hose underwent a similar change. The feet of the hose worn by stylish gentklemen were extended to exagerated lengths. Women wore surcotes with the sides cut to show off the kirtles they wore underneath. The fashiins excesses such as bright colors and extended hoods and stickings were a matter of concern. In part this was a matter of affluent commoners such as merchants with the money to dress as well as the nobility. In some countries such as Engand, laws were passed regulate fashion. [Crush]

Sources

Crush, Margaret. Piccolo Book of Costume (Pan Books: London, 1973). The book has vert nicely done illustrations by Faith Jaques.

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Created: August 8, 2003
Last updated: August 10, 2003