Figure 1.--We think this boy was English, but we are niot positive. The rounded flat-cap, and a\Argyle knee socks seem more American. The gaberdine overcoat, short pants, and wellies, however, seem very English. The snapshiot is undated, but we would guess was taken about 1930.

Boys coats around the world have been grearly influenced by English styles. Perhaps the best known is the gabardine overcoat. This was adopted as the official uniform item by many English schools. And it was widely worn for much of the 20th century into the post-World War II era. It was not a heavy winter coat. A heavier coat, often called a jacket because they were cut shorter was the reefer jacket and the duffle jacket--both military styles. A HBC reader recalls the rubberized raincoat he wore as a boy. There are significant climatic differences between England and America. England never gets as cold as it does in the northern states or as warm as it does in the southern states. Sweaters have been very popular in the often chilly English but rarely bitter cold climate. We note some terms common in Britain that are not used in America. Cagoule is a British term. I do not think many Americans will recognize it. It means a lightweight anorak. This would be a lightweight hooded waterproof top or jacket. It is made of such a light-weight material that it can even be folded up and easily. We have noted brightly colored ones (often red or yellow) being carried by Cubs on their belt as a compact bundle at the back. It is useful in England and Scotland where rain showers can come up quickly. So boys can carry this garment instead of a heavy raincoat. The term appears to have appeared in the mid-20th century, adopted ffrom French. The term reltes to 'cowl', from Latin cucullus 'cap, hood' which is the source of the English word cowl. All cagoules have hoods for rain protection.

English Styling

Boys coats around the world have been grearly influenced by English styles.

Juvenile Overcoats

We see younger boys and girls wearing the same style of overcoats. They were mostly worn by pre-school children, but younger primary chikdren might waer them. Somewhat older girls than boys mifght wear them. These were coats mostly worn by children from affluent families. Double breasted styling was popular, but there werealso singke breasred styles. These coats were also popular in France. The collars might be done in velvet. and there were often flap pockets. We are not sure about the colors. Camal hair was popular in America. The British royls were commonly photographed wearing these coats. John F. Kennedy Jr., famously wore one of these coats for his father's funeral. After World War II we see then done in colors. While the coats were identical for boys and girls, there was some gender differences with the colors and the buttoning side.

Gaberdine Overcoats

Perhaps the best known English overcoat, especially for boys, is the gabardine overcoat. It was not a heavy winter coat, but winters in England are milder than in America and much of Europe. It was water repelent which was important in England because of all the rainy days. It was not designed for children. In fact it became known as the 'trench coat' because of its military origins. Two British luxury clothing manufacturers (Burberry and Aquascutum) claim the gaberdine overcoat. 【Chastain】 Aquascutum's claim dates to the 1850s. Thomas Burberry invented gabardine fabric (1879). He submitted a well-documented, design for a British Army officer's raincoat to the War Office (1901). It was commonly worn as a kind of windbreaker or rain coat more than for warmth during the winter. It was developed as an alternative to the heavy serge greatcoats worn by British and French soldiers during World War I. The trench coat became an optional British Army unifiorm item. Only officers could wear them. And it was not standard issue. Officers had to purchase them in stores. It was during World War I that they became known as 'trench coats'. We are not sure when children, mostly boys, began wearing them, but we believe it was sfter World War I (1920s). The popularity was probably partly due to the fact that British private schools began adopting them as part of the uniform. And it was widely worn for much of the 20th century into the post-World War II era. There appears to be a social class factor here. As far as we can tell they were mostly worn by middle- and upper-class boys.

Reefers

A heavier coat, often called a jacket because they were cut shorter and seen as more informal was the reefer jacket and the duffle jacket--both military styles.

Rain Coats

A HBC reader recalls the rubberized raincoat he wore as a boy.

Climate

There are significant climatic differences between England and America. England never gets as cold as it does in the northern states or as warm as it does in the southern states. Sweaters have been very popular in the often chilly English but rarely bitter cold climate.

Cagoule/Anorak

We note some terms common in Britain that are not used in America. Cagoule is a British term. I do not think many Americans will recognize it. It means a lightweight anorak. This would be a lightweight hooded waterproof top or jacket. It is made of such a light-weight material that it can even be folded up and easily. We have noted brightly colored ones (often red or yellow) being carried by Cubs on their belt as a compact bundle at the back. It is useful in England and Scotland where rain showers can come up quickly. So boys can carry this garment instead of a heavy raincoat. The term appears to have appeared in the mid-20th century, adopted ffrom French. The term reltes to 'cowl', from Latin cucullus 'cap, hood' which is the source of the English word cowl. All cagoules have hoods for rain protection.

Sources

Chastain, Sue. "Trenchant coat cuffs may fray and buttons may pop, but a true believer won't abandon his burberry, Chicago Tribune (December 4, 1985), p. 40.

Created: 6:04 PM 6/25/2009
Last updated: 1:38 AM 3/21/2021