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While the fashion industry was important in France even in the 18th century, it was after the mid-19th century, however, that the industry began to explode. There were in 1850 about 25 Parisian dressmakers and ready to wear (confection) houses. That had increased four fold to 800 by 1863 and 1,090 by 1870. This was partly due to the expanding bourgeois and increasingly wealth of late 19th century France. More consumers with available disposable income could support the expanding industry. In addition, technological improvements were reducing the real costs of material and garments. Individuals beyond a handful of rich artistocrats and merchants who formerly might have had only a few changes of clothes, might now have a whole wardrobe. Not only could more people afford more clothes, but the clothes were increasingly well made and fitted. Increasing information on French boys' fashions becomes available at mid-century. The increasingly proliferation of fashion magazines provides a wealth of information. Many focused primarily on women's clothes, but some like La Mode Ilustree had a wealth of information on children's fashions as it positioned itself editorially as a family magazine. In addition, the development of commercial photography in the late 1830s provide an invaluable new source of information.
While the fashion industry was important in France even in the 18th century, it was after the mid-19th century, however, that the industry began to explode. There were in 1850 about 25 Parisian dressmakers and ready to wear (confection) houses. That had increased four fold to 800 by 1863 and 1,090 by 1870.
The fashion industry was expanding partly due to the expanding bourgeois and increasingly wealth of late 19th century France. More consumers with available disposable income could support the expanding industry.
Technological improvements were reducing the real costs of material and garments. Individuals beyond a handful of rich artistocrats and merchants who formerly might have had only a few changes of clothes, might now have a whole wardrobe. Not only could more people afford more clothes, but the clothes were increasingly well made and fitted.
Increasing information on French boys' fashions becomes available at mid-century. The increasingly proliferation of fashion magazines provides a wealth of information. Many focused primarily on women's clothes, but some like La Mode Ilustree had a wealth of information on children's fashions as it positiioned itself editorially as a family magazine. In addition, the development of commercial photography in the late 1830s provide an invaluable new source of information.
The expanding availability of fashionable garb for children was in part a reflection of the expanding production of ready made garments that could be bought for much less than tailored hand-sewn garments. Gaston Worth, son of the celebrated couturier, reports that by the 1850s there was at least one Parisian ready made shop, Mme. Roger, offering women's dresses and children's clothes. From this early point, children's clothes were commonly sold along with women's clothes. This was understandable as it was the mother who normally cared for the children and was responsible for purchasing their clothing. The editior of La Mode Illustree reported in the 1860s that there were several styles of robes toutes faites which could be bought at the Magasins du Louve This early department store may have well been the model for Au Bonheur des Dames in Zola's 1883 novel of that name. By the 1880s the department store had become an accepted institution in France as well a other European countries and America. As early as the 1860s, Magasins du Louve was offering free baloons bearing its name to attract boys and girls along with their mothers.
HBC has only limited information of French fashion trends during the decades of the mid-19th century. Young boys still wore dresses throughout the period. There were also a variety of popular skirted garments, kilts, skirts, smocks, and tunics. Tunics were a particularly important style. We are unsure how common smocks were during this period. Boys gradually began wearing pantalets less. Older boys wore long trousers, but calf-length kneepants became increasingly commom. We note working-class in the 1860s still wearing long trousers when children from more affluent children were beginning to commonly wear kneepants. Puffed sleeves were popular for both boys and girls in the in 1850s, but not common by the 1870s. Younger boys suits often had fancifukl styling. Zouave suits were one popoular style. Kilts were a sensation in the 1850s and while less common by the 1870s. The influence of kilt and tartan styling was still seen. Military style caps were popular in the 1850s. By the 1860s younger boys were seen in velvet suits with lace collars, the fore runner of the Fauntleroy suit. Sailor styling is still not a major style through the 1860s, but we do note sailor hats in the 1860s.
HBC does not yet have detailed information on the garments worn by French boys during the mid-19th century. As in other European countries, young boys wore dresses like their sisters. The age at which boys wore dresses varied, but realtively olds boys in affluent families might continue wearing dresses. An example is the family of famed French engineer, Ferdinand DeLesseps. Either before or after breeching, boys might wear tunics. Details on a 1850s tunic are available. Younger boys woukld wear pantalettes with their tunics while older boys might wear trousers. After breecing a boy might wear a fancy velvet suit. Such suit were reportedly influential in how an American visitor, Frances Hogdsen Burnett dressed her two boys and the genesus of the American Little Lord Fauntleroy suit. Smocks were introduced to French schools in the 1870s. We do not yet know how commonly they were worn by French boys before they were required by the schools. Boys at mid century wore a variety of pantsm both long pants and calf-length kneepants and kniclers.We also do not yet have details on the suit styles worn by French boys. We believe that kneepants suits were commonly worn in the 1870s.
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