Figure 1.--German children commonly wore long stockings in the late-19th and early-20th centuries. Several factors affected the wearing of long stockings. Age and gender were two such factors, but there were several other important fscyors.

HBC has begun to address the question of factors which have affected the wearing of long stockings, including age, cultural attitudes, demographics, formality, gender, seasonality, and social class. There may be other factors involved, but these are the ones tht seem to be the most important. We have begun to incestigate these factors and have archived quite a bit of information concerning each of these factors. Some like age and gender may have not affected so much the wearing of long stockings per se, but the color of long stockings or convebtions assciated with their wear. These factors of course varied in importance over tome as did the conventions associsted with them. We have only begun our assessment, but have learned quite a bit. Available photography, especially for the 20th century, has revealed many important trends abd our German readers have proivided arange of insightful assessments.

Ages

The ages at which German boys wore long stockings varied chronologically. HBC is not sure what age boy wore long stockings in the late 19th and early 20th century. American boys up to 16 and even 18 years of age wore long stockings with knee pants and knickers in the years before World War I. I am not sure if the same was the case in Germany. After World War I, some boys continued weaing old-fashioned dark long stockings for formal occassions, in some cases up to about 15 years of age at the most. More common was boys wearing lighter colored long stockings. Here boys might wear them through about age 10 with some boys wearing them until 12-13 years. A problem in assessing the age of boys wearing long stockings is that it is often difficult to tell what kind of hosiery boys in long pants are wearing.

Cultural Attitudes

Demographic Trends

Long stockings were widely worn by German boys in the late 19th and early 20th century. We do noty know at this time if there were important demographic differences. We simply do not have adequate information on German boys's clothes at this time. After World War I, German boys increasingly began wearing kneesocks rather than long stockings--especially older boys. German boys began wearing long stockings less in the 1930s and the trend was much more pronounced. The NAZI attitude toard them was one factor here. There were some demographic differences which were more apparent in the 1930s. Long stockings continued to be worn more in rural areas where traditional clothing styles persisted longer than in urban areas. During the NAZI era this difference probably reflected te greater ease in controlling behavior in more urbanized areas. After the War is was more a factor of the greater importance of and exposure to fashion among urban populations.

Formality

Long stockings were also worn for formality by both boys and girls. We are notsure why this convention developed. Presumably it was not seen as appropriate to have bare legs--even just bare knees for formal occassions. This often involved chirch related activities such as special events like sunday services, first communion, conformation, weddings, ect. we are not sure about the 19th century. Our archive is limited, but long stockings were commonly worn year round so formality seems less of an issue. Of course newer or better quiality long stockings might be worn for formal occassions. This changed by the 20th century. Long stockings became more of a seasonal garment. Fewer children wore them year round. But for formal occassions even during the summer, children might wear long stockings. And as in the 19th century, better quality long stockings might be worn when dressing up for formal occassions. This usually mean lighter materil;, oerhaps silk or silk blends, which fit better than the heavy wool stockings worn during the winter for warmth. The tromer moreform fit seems to have been part of the formal look. Black and white stockings weewe seenas formal colors, but we also see the tan shade stockings appearing in the 1920s being worn for warmth.

Gender Trends

HBC has little information about long stockings gender conventions in the 19th century. Boys and girls in the first half of the 20th century have both commonly worn long stockings. By the 1920s they weere more common for girls as older boys began to increasingly wear socks rather than stockings. Often boys and girls wore the same colors, but there were some color differences. A HBC reader reports that after World War I, German girls rarely wore black and other dark long stockings. Girls did wear brown, beige and grey long stockings, the same colors mostly worn by the boys. Girls did commonly wear white sockings which boys usually only wore for festive occassions. Girls did not wear black stockings which boys might for formal occassions.

Seasonality

Warmth was an especially important factor in which homes and schools were so well heated. Most German homes did not have central heating before the 1950s. As a result, it was very important that children dressed warmly. There has always been an element of seasonality associated with long stockings, although it was not the oinly factor. The importance, however, of seasonality has varied over time. In the late 19th and early 20th century long stockings were no only worn for warmth. While younger children might wear three-quarter socks, it was considered more appropraite for older children to wear long stockings with kneepants. This was especially true for formal occassions such as Church. Note that almost all boyswear long stockings in First Communion and Confirmation portraits taken before World War I (1914-18). After the War, boys wearing short pants suits with kneesocks for formal events become much more common. Thus after the War, long stockings become increasingly worn during cool or cold weather. In that regard, long stockings had an advantage over other hosiery, especially tights. In the morning and evening when it was cool they could be worn pulled up. During the day, when it was warmer, they could be worn rolled down.

Social Class

It was middle class boys who first stopped wearing long stockings. HBC at this time is not sure why. Long stockings persisted in poorer classes and interestingly sometimes also with th upper classes. A German reader reports, "I remember a published photograph (on the front page of a German illustrated periodical) of the Grand Ducal family of Luxemburg taken about 1950 during a big public ceremony, perhaps a marriage. A boy of the family wore long white stockings. In those days tights have not yet come on the market, they were only worn in ballet and theater.