|
One popular fashion in Germany was to wear a Bavarian jacket, often with lederhosen, instead of a suit.
When dressing up, boys might wear Lederhosen with Loden wool Bavarian jackets. We also see them referred to as Alpine jackets or Trachtenjankeas because they were also worn in Austria. Loden wool is a Water-resistant material made from sheep's wool, the better grades from lamb's wool. There is a special processing technique does not
remove the oily lanolin. This also gives the jackets good temperature regulating characteristics. The jackets are thus usually done in a greyish green color green and used in Austrian and Bavarian traditional clothing. As a result, this greyish green color is named loden green. We see boys wearing Lederhosen with and without Bavarian jackets. A dressy look could be achieved with just a white shirt and tie. When a jacket was needed for dressy occassions are on cool days, a Bavarian jacket was a common choice. A regular suit coat or sports jacket could be worn, but Bavarian jackets seem more common. Like Lederhosen, they were once exclusevely worn in southern Germany, especially Bavaria, but after World War II became popular in northern Germany as well, in part because Bavarian styles had been popularized by the NAZIs as as a kind of national dress. While now worn throughout Germany, but are still most commonly seen in the south. Bavarian jackets are made in two ways. Some were made without lapels and little or new collars. They thus were made to button at the collar, but boys often did not do so. Others were madec with high-set lpels. The lapels were often decorated. An oak leaft was a popular decoration. We also see the lapels done with velvet. The button material varied, including metal, buckhorn, or coins are typical. These jackets are often green and done with grey trim or visa versa. The border of the collar and the embroidery typically is in a dark green. The German language term is Tegernseen amed sfter a resort toiwn and lke in Bavaria. They are done with slit pockets which are commonly decorated with trim. Two side pockets and one left breast pocket was a common arrangement. They are not boys wear as such, but seem nore common for boys than older teenagers and adults.
One popular fashion in Germany was to wear a Bavarian jacket, often with lederhosen, instead of a suit. At first reserved to Bavaria, after World War II the style beconmes more common in other parts of Germany. These styles have not, however, become generalized German styles. Most Germans will readily idebtify them as Bavarian not German. Some German readers have even complained to HBC to insist that these jackets and related clothing be idebntified as Bavarian and not German. I think that perhaps Lederhosen have become more widely accepted than the jackets and hats.
When dressing up, boys might wear Lederhosen with Loden wool Bavarian jackets. We also see them referred to as Alpine jackets or Trachtenjankeas because they were also worn in Austria. Loden wool is a Water-resistant material made from sheep's wool, the better grades from lamb's wool. There is a special processing technique does not
remove the oily lanolin. This also gives the jackets good temperature regulating characteristics.
The color of Bavarian jckets is a little difficult to assess as so much of the available pgotographybis black and whire. The jackets are thus usually done in a greyish green color green and used in Austrian and Bavarian traditional clothing. As a result, this greyish green color is named loden green.
We see German boys wearing Lederhosen with and without Bavarian jackets. Most commonly they wee worn without the jackets, but we see quite a number of boys wearing the jckets. With the Bavarian jackets they were worn for a range of school or dressy occassions. Lederhosen could be wirn for play or outsoor activitie, but with the Bavarian jackets they were worn for more formalmoccassions or possibly dchool. A dressy look could be achieved with just a white shirt and tie. When a jacket was needed for dressy occassions are on cool days, a Bavarian jacket was a common choice. A regular suit coat or sports jacket could be worn, but Bavarian jackets seem more common with Lederhosen. We see them worn to school as well as for more dressy occassions like Church on Sunday. We see boys with their parents drssed up. They could be going to church, park outings, as well as a variety of other occassions like parties, visiting relatives, or othe occassions. It is not always clear from the available images just where the family was going, but if the parents are also dressed upyou can get a good idea of the type of occassion. .
Like Lederhosen, they were once exclusevely worn in southern Germany, especially Bavaria, but after World War II became popular in northern Germany as well, in part because Bavarian styles had been popularized by the NAZIs as a kind of national dress. While now worn throughout Germany, but are still most commonly seen in the south.
Bavarian jackets are made in two major ways. The photographic recor provides many exmples of both. Some were made without lapels and little or new collars. They thus were made to button at the collar, but boys often did not do so. Others were madec with high-set lapels. The lapels were often decorated. An oak leaft was a popular decoration. We also see the lapels done with velvet. The button material varied, including metal, buckhorn, or coins are typical. These jackets are often green and done with grey trim or visa versa. The border of the collar and the embroidery typically is in a dark green. The German language term is Tegernsee, nmed sfter a resort town nd lke in Bavaria. They are done with slit pockets which are commonly decorated with trim. Two side pockets and one left breast pocket was a common arrangement. Both styles seem very popular. We are not sure which is the most traditional.
They are not boys wear as such, but seem nore common for boys than older teenagers and adults. A facgor here is that by the 1970s, suit jackers and sports jackets of all kinds became increasinglyb less common for boys.
We note Lederhosen being worn with a number of accesories or other associated garments. Lederhosen might be worn with a kind of Alpine cap. I looks to be made of felt and is often green. Some boys and men wore a hat with a Gamsbart (beard of a chamois) or a bird feather. When dressing up, boys might wear Lederhosen with Bavarian jackets. These are often green are done with green trim. Lederhosen are often wore with coloful checked shirts. This is a relatively recent innovation. Lederhosen were often worn with halters. Many boys did not wear halters, but others did, There were dififferent kinds of halters. Commonly they consited of leather suspenders (braces) with a decorative cross piece in the general design of H-bar shorts. Lederhosen were commonly worn with both knee socks and split socks (loferl). The split stockings consist of a calf band and a foot part. Loferls were particularly common in areas of Upper-Bavaria when wearing short pants lederhosen (kurze lederhosen). The knicker-length lederhosen were always worn with kneesocks. The shorts style was worn with both kneesocks and the cloth band. During the summer boys might also wear them with ankle socks.
A HBC reader asks us, "My question has to do with this subject. Is HBC familiar with a German jacket style called "tergense", and I am not sure I
have spelled this correctly. I believe this is a jacket style named after a particular geographic area in Germany, though I am not sure. I did a couple different searches
on the internet, varying the spelling of the word "tergense", such as "turgense", "tuergense", "turgency", etc. and I even though it might be spelled with a "d", so I tried
"durgense", or a few variations of that word. I had worn this style of jacket with my brothers when I was very young, even though we are fully "Americans", but my
mother had a flair and style in clothing us when we were young. Now I am trying to find out how this word is spelled. Can you offer any help?" A HBC reader writes, "The jacket your reader used to wear was a TEGERNSEE JACKE. Tegernsee is a lake and a village of the same name in Upper Bavaria. The German word "See" means "Lake" in English. Sometimes it also means sea, as in Nordsee (North Sea) or Ostsee (Baltic Sea)." A German reader writes, "�Tegernsee� certainly is right. Such jackets have a special name in south German dialects, �der Janker�, a woolen Tracht-Jacket. In southern Bavaria and Tyrolia in Austria elder adult men wore still such �Janker�. Hunters like to have such �Jankers�."
Navigate the Boys' Historical Clothing German pages:
[Return to the Main German suit jacket page]
[Return to the Lederhosen: Accompanying garments]
[German choirs]
[German youth groups]
[German school uniforms]
[German royalty]
[German sailor suits]
[Lederhosen]
[Ethnic]
[Tights]
[Long stockings]
