The collars worn by American boys have changed quite dramatically over time. We do not much have much information on the early 19th century. Collars on boys' shirts tended to be very small in the mid-19th century. A good example is the Wallis brothers in 1852. Collars increased in size by the late 19th century in some cases becoming huge. We note a range of collar styles for boys in the late 19th century. The governing rule seems to have been that the younger the boys the larger the collar. Younger boys in the late-19th century might wear lace collars and slightly later ruffled collars. Some were quite large and often worn with floppy bows. We also note plainer Eton and Peter Pan collars. These could be quite large as well, but not as large as the lace and ruffled collars By the turn of the 20th century, ruffled collars becamme more common. Many school age boys in the late 19th and early 20th century wore Eton collars when dressing up. Gradually a standard pointed collar became the nost common collar worn. The size of the collar varied. The collar button was often worn buttoned, but in the 1920s soorts collars became popular. By the 1950s preppy styles were popular, Many boys wore shirts with button-down collars. Collarless "T" shirts became increasing popular in the latter part of the 20th century. This was part of the increasing popularity of informal dress. By the turn of the 21st century, many boys had come to see a collared shirt as a dressy shirt style.

The 18th Century

Fashion historians focus largely on women's dresses and mnen's suit. We see much less about mnen's shirtys whuch were often civered up by suits and vests (waistcoats). Styles of course were set in Europe and for Americansmen, primarily Britain. They were no juvenile styles. Boys wore small versions of their father's shirts. The lack of attentioin to shietrs is unfortnate because since the medieval era thriugh the 18th centurythe shirt was an inmprtant part of a man's waerdrobe. One historian describes it as a rare 'democratic' item. Because it did not show, the cut was the same fior monarchs and servants. Often the only part of the shirt to show was the collar. 18th century shirts were very different than modern shirts. Shirts did not button down the front and had few frills. Men pulled them on over their head. They were very long to bid-thigh. There was an opening slit for the head. It opening skit ran to about mid-chest. They were then fastened with two or three buttons leading to the throat. The collar was a rectangle. It was soft, without interlining. The shape visible around the neck. The shape of the collar was determined by the neckcloth, cravat, or stock tied around it. Ruffles could be sewn into the neck slit and at the cuffs. This was of course for the affluent. At the end of the dcade we begin to see short stand-up collars. These began to become highedr by the turn-of-the 19th century and higher still in thearly 19th century.

Figure 1.--Collars for boys in the late 20th century became quite large and were often worn with floppy bows. Adults might wear a wing collar.

The 19th Century

We do not much have much information on the early 19th century. Some boys from wore fancy collars in the early 19th century. Open cillars were common in the very early 19th century, but buttoned collars gradually becme more common. These were commonly worn by city boys from affluent families. America at the time was, howecer, largely rural and most rural boys wore very plain collars. We know much more about the mid-19th century as a result of the development of photography. We notice great variation both in style and size. Collars on boys' shirts tended to be very small in the mid-19th century. Often we can hardly see the collars in old portraits because they are so small and often covered by jackets. A good example of small collars is the Wallis brothers in 1852. We continue to see very small collars in the 1860s. An example of a boy wearing a collar so small that it can hardly be seen is C. Stewart in 1865. Collars increased in size by the late 19th century in some cases becoming huge. We note a range of collar styles for boys in the late 19th century. The governing rule seems to have been that the younger the boys the larger the collar. Younger boys in the late-19th century might wear lace collars and slightly later ruffled collars. Some were quite large and often worn with floppy bows. Some of the outfits seem to almost ebvelop small boys. We also note plainer Eton and Peter Pan collars. These might be worn by somewhat older boys. Eton collars were an popular style in the late-19th, although less so in American thannBritain. These were detachable collars worn with shirt waists. These could be quite large as well, but not as large as the lace and ruffled collars By the 1890s and turn of the 20th century, ruffled collars becamme more common. These collars were not just worn with Fauntleroy suits, but in standard sack suits as well. Boys almost always buttoned their collars, even when not wearing neckwear.

Figure 2.--Younger boys in the early 20th century might wear plain, but large collars. Rounded Peter Pan collars were popular, but they were also done with pointed collara. Note that despite the play scene, the boy's collar is buttoned.

The 20th Century

We still see the fancy Fauntkeroy collars at the beginning of the 20th century, but they diud not last long. Many school age boys in the late 19th and early 20th century wore Eton collars when dressing up. This lasted a little longer. The fancy lace and ruffled collars were becoming less popular in the 1910s. We still see wing collars and jigh collars, but kess commonly for boys. World War I was a major turning point in fashion. Many fancy, formal styles disappeared after the War. Younger boys might wear Peter Pan collars or similar large collars with points. Eton collars went out of style, although we see some younger boys wearing them when dressung up. Gradually a standard pointed collar became the nost common collar worn. The size of the collar varied. The huge collars of the ealy 20th century dissapared after World War I. Younger bos still woire larger collars, but not the huge collars of the late-19th century. The collar button was often worn buttoned. Some mothers insiusted on it. Sports collars became popular (1920s). Preppy styles became popular (1950s). We still see many boys buttoning theur collars at mid-century. Many boys wore shirts with button-down collars. Collarless "T" shirts became increasing popular in the latter part of the 20th century. This was part of the increasing popularity of informal dress. We notice fad styles in the 1970s like the Chinese collar. And collars grew in size along with lapels (1970s). Collars returned to mormal sizes (1980s). We notice few boys by the end of the century buttoning their collars. There were both button-down and regular collars at the end of the century.

The 21st Century

By the turn of the 21st century, many boys had come to see a collared shirt as a dressy shirt. We see more and more boys weating T-shirts.

Navigate the Boys' Historical Clothing Web Site:
[Introduction] [Activities] [Biographies] [Chronology] [Clothing styles] [Countries]
[Bibliographies] [Contributions] [Essays] [FAQs] [Glossaries] [Images] [Links] [Registration] [Tools]
[Boys' Clothing Home]

Created: 5:10 PM 8/8/2007
Last updated: 8:41 PM 9/13/2020