Figure 1.-- Here we see an unidentified American boy wearing what looks like a jacketed dress. He looks to be about 4 years old. Notice the small ribbon bow and white long stockings. The CDV portrait is undated, but looks like the 1860s to us. The studio is also not identified.

Large numbers of photographic images become available for the fist time during the 1860s. The low price of CDVs and cabinent cards using the albumen process meant that they were made in large numbers. Thus we know a great deal about children's clothing. We see younger boys wearing dresses as well as some older boys. Collars seem small. The little boy on the previous page in 1861 wears a patterened dress with balloned half sleeves (figure 1). A good example is an American boy in 1865 with long sleeves. Defined waists seem common. We note an unidentified family in which all the children wore dresses, including the older boy who looks to be about 10-years old. The tin-type portrait is not dated, but we believe it was taken in the 1860s. We note different dress styles including defined and undefined waists. We note an unidentified New York boy in the 1860s wearing a plain dress with long flounced pantalettes. Here we see an unidentified boy wearing a jacketed dress (figure 1). Given the number of available images, the photographic record becomes increasingly useful in assessing both styles and prevalence. And here we do not see as many boys wearing dresses as we might have expected. We seem to find more examples in the 1870s and 80s along wih more other skirted garments like kilt suits. We do find some older boys wearing dresses than we noted in the 1850s, but as discussed above, our archive is still fairkly limited making a valid assessment difficult. This is just a preliminary assessment and we home to speak more definatively as HBC expands. One factor to consider is Ameruic's griowing affluence as an industrial economy and as cities began to grow are both factors which may have affected the prevalence of dresses. This is not a subject we have noted in fashion histories. At this time all we have to go on is the photographic record.

Image Availability

Large numbers of photographic images become available for the fist time during the 1860s. The low price of CDVs and cabinent cards using the albumen process meant that they were made in large numbers. Thus beginning with the 1860s we know much more about fashion trends than ever before. And this include a wider spectrum of thepopulation because of the sharply lower costs of CDVs and the ability to make inexpensive duplicates. We thus know a great deal about children's clothing.

Ages

We see younger boys wearing dresses as well as a few older boys. Most of the boys are pre-school boys. The public school systemn was bedginning to become increasingly regularized with children beginning school at about 6-years of age. We do find some older boys wearing dresses than we noted in the 1850s, but as discussed above, our archive is still fairly limited making a valid assessment difficult. This is just a preliminary assessment and we home to speak more definatively as HBC expands.

Elements

We note the characteristics of the various dress elements: collars, bodice, sleves, waistline and skirt. Collars seem small. Collars varied. Some dresses do not have collars. Others have small white collars in various styles like the ones boys wore with suits. We notice both half and long sleeves. The half sleeves might cover a blouse with balloning sleeves. The little boy on the previous page in 1861 wears a patterened dress with balloned half sleeves. A good example is an American boy in 1865 with long sleeves. Defined waists seem common. The unidentified boy here in a jacketed dress is a good example of a defined waist (figure 1). Skirts seem generally full and long, down to just above the ankles. We do not yet notice pleating.

Colors and Patterns

We note dresses done ion a range of colors based on the grey shading. But we do mot yet have a good idea as to the acttual cilors. We do see a few white drtesses. We also notice a range of patterns.

Decoration

Embroidery work on dresses seem popular.

Conventions

conventions We note an unidentified family in which all the children wore dresses, including the older boy who looks to be about 10-years old. The tin-type portrait is not dated, but we believe it was taken in the 1860s.

Styles

We note different dress styles including defined and undefined waists. We note an unidentified New York boy in the 1860s wearing a plain dress with long flounced pantalettes. Here we see an unidentified boy wearing a jacketed dress (figure 1).

Prevalence

Given the number of available images, the photographic record becomes increasingly useful in assessing both styles and prevalence. And here we do not see as many boys wearing dresses as we might have expectd. We seem to find more examples in the 1870s and 80s along wih more other skirted garments like kilt suits. One factor to consider is America's growing affluence as an industrial economy and as cities began to grow which are both factors which may have affected the prevalence of dresses. This is not a subject we have noted in fashion histories. At this time all we have to go on is the photographic record.

Accompamying Clothing

We note a variety of clothing worn with dresses. The most common were white stockings (we are unsure about the length), pantalettles, petticoats, and both low-cut and high-top shoes. Women at the time wore hoop skirts withn many patticoats. Boys as far as we know did not ear the hoop affairs, but petticoats seem common. The lomg lenhthn of the skirts commonly cover this up, but the petticoats are hinted at by the fullness of the skirt. his up. '

Gender

We do not yet know if there were appreciable differences between the dresses worn by boys and girls during the decade. We notuce two Iowa siblings during the Civil War era. The youngr child eems to be a boy. His dres looks much like any younger child might wear.

Created: Created: 8:38 PM 6/25/2013
Last updated: 3:30 PM 8/28/2013