Figure 1.-These children from Olean, New York was photographed about 1890--two girls and a boy. Presumably they ae brothers and sisters. The boy looks to be about 4 years old. He is wearing a dark dress with dark stocking and dark high shoes ansd a large floppy bow. The girls' dresses are fancier, especially the older girl. Also note the boy has a front buttoning dress. Also he is the only one with a floppy bow.

Boys in the early 19th century wore dresses styled much like their sisters. The only difference in some paintings and phoyographs may be the props introduced as gender clues. By the late 19th century destinctive boys styles appeared. This was, however, largely a family mother--mother's discression. Not all mothers selected these boy styles. There were no definitive rules on styling boy dresses. Some boys were dressed in fancy dresses like their sisters. The boy dresses by the late 19th century had become increasingly common. Thus boy dresses seem a phenomenon largely associated with the laste-19th century. The most important destinctive feature was that boy styles were more plain than those worn by girls. They were also more likely to have front buttons. In fact, buttons were much more common on boy dresses. Belts and defined waistlines were also more common for boy dresses. We also see styilized jackets, presumably emulating the jackets of kiltvsuits which were worn by boys. This is not to say that such elenents did not asppear in the dresses worn by girls. It is to say that they were generally more important in the dresses worn by boys. As conventions for boy dresses varied from family to family, the most valuable images for evaluating these conventions are family portraits.

Late-19th Century Boy Dresses

Boys for centuries wore dresses styled much like the ones worn by their sisters. Boys in the early-19th century still wore dresses styled like their sisters. We are not sure if boy-styled dresses even existed at the time. The only difference in some paintings and phoyographs may be the props introduced as gender clues. By the late-19th century destinctive boys styles appeared. at the same time we notice fewer and younger boys wearing dresses. This was, however, still largely a family mother--mother's discression. Not all mothers selected these boy styles. There were no definitive rules on styling boy dresses. Some boys were dressed in fancy dresses like their sisters. The boy dresses by the late 19th century had become increasingly common. Thus boy dresses seem a phenomenon largely associated with the laste-19th century and to a lesser extent the very-early 20th century. It is interesting that it was seen necessary to develop specific styles for boys in the late-19th century. This was not seen necessary in the early-19th century. We are still working on the chtronology. We are not yet sure about the 1880s, but believe that the trend for boy-styled dresses began then. The trend for boy-styled dresses vas well establishged in the 1890s. We also see it in the 900s, but the convention of younger boys wearing dresses rapidly declined in the 1900s, even boy-styles dresses. And it was no longer common by the 1910s to see even younger boys wearing dresses beyond infancy.

Elements

We notice a range of elenents that were used to differentiate boy dresses from girl dresses. It shouldbe srtressed that they were not uniformily utilozed by mothers at the time, but the photographic record shows that they were commonly used by many mothers. And as many dresses were sewn at home or by seamstresses and not bought readymade, mores had the ability to chose the stylistic elements for each child. The most important destinctive feature was that boy styles were more plain than those worn by girls. Here the Fauntleroy Craze of the 1880s introduced a complicating element. They were also more likely to have front buttons. In fact, buttons were much more common on boy dresses. Belts and defined waistlines were also more common for boy dresses. We also see styilized jackets, presumably emulating the jackets of kilt suits which were worn by boys. This is not to say that such elenents did not asppear in the dresses worn by girls. It is to say that they were generally more important in the dresses worn by boys. Color may have been another factor, but this is much more difficult to assess in period black-and-white photography. Accessories are a stylistic element to consider. Floppy bows were more common for boys than girls. Lace collsars are more complicated. And modern color conventions were not yet well wsrtablished in the 19th century. As conventions for boy dresses varied from family to family, the most valuable images for evaluating these conventions are family portraits. When trying to assess unidentified portraits, the reader should not use any single element as definitive, but rather assess how many of the different elements are found. And hair styling can be used as conformation.

Country Trends

The information developed here is for America, primarily because HBC has a very large archive of American images. Our European archives are much smaller, especially for the 19th century. We are thus not at all sure to what extent the cnventions discussed here pertain to the various European countries. We are working on other countries as well, but it will probably be some time before we can develop the same level of detail for other countries.

Created: 7:00 PM 11/11/2006
Last updated: 9:05 AM 11/19/2015