Figure 1.--This CDV was taken at the Whipple studio in Boston. It is undated, but looks like it was taken about 1870. The boy is unidentified. He wears a button-on suit with bloomer knickers. The pants legs are closed with a draw string.

We note button-on suits that were popular (1860s-70s). These were suits because the top and bottom were done in the same material. Boys wore various kinds of pants with these suits. This varied over time, depending in the changing opularity and convententions associated with the different pants types. We notice both long pants, knee pants and bloomer knickers. Bloomer knickers seem the most common. The type of pants do not seem to have age connotations as these button-on suits were all worn by younger boys, mostly boys from about 4-10 years of age. These suits could be plaon. Some of these suits were highly decorated. Most of these decotations were on the top. But in high decorated suits, some of the top decorations were continued on the bottom. Notice the striping on the boy's psnts here which matches the striping bpn the top (figure 1). This meant that some of these pants were the most highly decorated pants that boys wore. Suspension was achieved by buttons. They were button on to bitton holes at the waisr of the burrons. Some had fabric devices to cover the buttons. Later in the 20th century we see short pants as well,but these were moew correctly called sets rather than suits as the tops and bottoms were not done with the samne material. The tops and bottopms were coordinated, but they were mostly not suits in the sence of dressy clothes done in the same material. Some were soecial dressy outfits to be worn at weddings or othe soecial events, but these were not as common as the short sets worn for everyday wear.

Chronology

We note button-on suits that were popular (1860s-70s). Most of the examples we have found come from the late-1860s and 70s. We are not entirely sure abpit this because we have so few dated portraits.

Material

These were suits because the top and bottom were done in the same material. This is why these garments can be correctly called suits even though they were not done with jackers. In the 19th century wee see these suits commonly being done in suiting material. In the 20th century we see mostly shirting material in the 20th century. A factor here was the suits were for somewhat younger boys in the 20th century. Some of the better outfits were dome in linnen and not just cotton.

Pants Types

Boys wore various kinds of pants with these button-on suits. They were commonly done in suituing material The pants types were somewhat relatred to the type of pants suitable for boys at the time. This varied over time, depending on the changing popularity and conventions associated with the different pants types. We notice both long pants, knee pants and bloomer knickers in the 19th century. Whatever the styles were for boys up to about 10-years of age. Bloomer knickers and long pangts seem the most common seem the most common. The bllomer knickers varies substntially. Some were very trim fitting. And others were extrodarily voluminous and baggy. We have no idea about the terms used. We see short pants in the 20th century instead of knee pants and knickers. The 20th century version were generally done for younger boys, mostly pre-school boys perhaos the youngest primary boys as well at least in the earliest years.

Cut

Most of pants for these suits were cut like normal pants, not real tight and not particularly baggy. We notice some of these outfits were done with very baggy pants. Often they were decoratated suits. These decorated suits tended to be the bloomer knicker outfits. The decorations were done with the decoatiinson the pants matching the decorations on the tops. We note some really baggy full cut pants. This was before knickers were commonly worn. In fact we do not see bafggy knickers until much later in the fashion record. These baggy bloomer knickers were not as common ss the more regular cut pants, butr we see quite a number of them in the photographic record.

Age Connotations

The type of pants do not seem to have age connotations as these button-on suits were all worn by younger boys, mostly boys from about 4-10 years of age.

Decorations

These button-on suits suits could be quite plain, devoid of any decoration. Some were highly decorated. Most of these decotations were on the top. But in high decorated suits, some of the top decorations were continued on the bottom. Notice the striping on the boy's psnts here which matches the striping bpn the top (figure 1). This meant that some of these pants were the most highly decorated pants that boys wore. Mpst pants were not decorated.

Suspension

Suspension was achieved by buttons. They were button on to bitton holes at the waisr of the burrons. Some had fabric devices to cober the buttons. That was the case here although it is difficult to see because the boy is not standing up (figure 1).

Sets

Later in the 20th century we see short pants as well,but these were moew correctly called sets rather than suits as the tops and bottoms were not done with the samne material. The tops and bottopms were coordinated, but they were mostly not suits in the sence of dressy clothes done in the same material. Some were soecial dressy outfits to be worn at weddings or othe soecial events, but these were not as common as the short sets worn for everyday wear.

Created: 3:03 AM 3/11/2009
Last updated: 10:58 PM 12/9/2022