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United States boys clothes: suits components jackers suit styles cut-away jackets cut
United States Cut-away Jackets: Cut
Figure 1.--This CDV portrait was taken at J. Asher's Opposition Gallery. 810 J Street between Eighth and Ninth. We are not sure what was meant by 'Opposition'. The portrait is undated, but we would guess it was taken in the late-1860s or early-70s. The white stockings help date the image. Most cut-away jackets were short jackets ending at or just below the waist. This boy has a jacket extending below the waistline. Also notice how long the knee panrs are. The CDV is also interesting because it has information about the studio and priceing on the back. Click on the image for details.
Cut-away jackets were cut in a variety of styles and cuts. Most of these jackets were plainly cut, but we notice a few cit-away jackets wiyjout lapels. The principal variation was the the degree and styling as to how the jacket was cut away. Here we are referring to the fact that the jacket was connected in someway at the top, but then gradually cut away as one moves down toward the waistline. In a few instances there was one button. Here we see an example, we think about 1870 (figure 1). In most imnstances there was some kind of connection eather than buttoning together. There were different kinds of top connections. Usually a tab or button was used at the top. We see a few jackets that had several buttons at the top. The cut of the jacket varied as to how sharply the two sides separated and the finishing at the waistline, often done as a kind of rounded than a sharp point. We see both, but the rounded jacket bottom was by far the most common. There were also differences in length. Fauntleroy cut-away jackets were especially small to show off fancy blouses to the best advantage. Other jackets were hardly cut away at all. Most cut-away jackets were short jackets, ending at or just below the waisline. We see, however, a few jackets that were cut longer, extending well below the waistline. This was not very common, but we do see a few examples.
Cut-away jackets were cut in a variety of styles and cuts. Most of these jackets were plainly cut, making the cut-away jacket a basically simple garment. We also notice cut-away jackets with lapels. This was most common at mid century through the 1870s. The boy here in the 1870s is sa good example (figure 1). Sone of these cut-away jackets look more like sack suit jacketsm especially if the cut away fortion of the jacket is very limited. SDo we havr some jackets thast can be described as a cut-away jacket with sack suit elenments or alternatively a sack suit with cit-away jacket elements. The lapels we see are mostly highset and small, but this varied especially through the 1870s when fashion style tended to less standarized. This was largely because ready made clothing becomes increasingly important. Cut-away jackets declined in popularity during the 1880s, except for Fauntleroy suits. And for Funtlroy suits it was the basic cut wihout lapels that were used. Some of the jackets had ebvroidered designs, but did not have lapels.
Degree of Cut
The principal variation was the the degree and styling as to how the jacket was cut away. Here we are referring to the fact that the jacket was connected in someway at the top, but then gradually cut away as one moves down toward the waistline. The cut of the jacket varied as to how sharply the two sides separated and the finishing at the waistline.
Most cut away jackets were very plain garments with smooth tappering cuts. While this was the standard, not all cut-away jackets were cut like this. We have some limited information on other cuts. We notuce some that had more stlish cuts, including scalloped hem on both the jacket and pants. We have seen only a few of these sylish cuts in the photographic record. There may have been other styles besides the scalloping. This is a topc wecare still pursuing.
Size
These cut-away jackers varied in size. Some especially the ones that were only modestly cut away were very similar to regular jackets. Fauntleroy cut-away jackets were especially small to show off fancy blouses to the best advantage. Other jackets were hardly cut away at all. And some were rather long, also increasing the size.
Connection
Most of the cut-away jackets had sides that were often not connected. In a few instances there was one button. We see a few jackets that had several buttons at the top. Here we see an example, we think about 1870 (figure 1). In most imnstances there was some kind of connection rather than buttoning together. There were different kinds of top connections. Usually a tab or button was used at the top.
Cut-away jackets were done to different lengths. And there were two basic ways of finshing the bottom of the jacket. The bottom of the jacket was often done as a kind of rounded finish.. We also see the botoom done in straight lines ending in a sharp point. And of course there were many gradiations of both basic approaches. We see both in the photographic record, but the rounded jacket bottom was by far the most common. We are not yet sure if there was a chronological pattern. We see both in the 1850s. By the 1860s the rounded bottom treatment seens to emerge as the most important. And here we see a square-cut bottom finish about 1870 (figure 1). This is some we plan to pursue in greater detail as HBC expands although the fact that most available images are undated rather complicates this.
Length
There were also differences in length. Most cut-away jackets were short jackets, ending at or just below the waisline. We see, however, a few jackets that were cut longer, extending well below the waistline. This was not very common, but we do see a few examples.
