United States Boys' Suits: Pants Chronology


Figure 1.-- These three unidentified brothers were photographed December 22, 1940. The boys wear doublr breasted jackets with short and long pants. By this time knickers were rapidly going out of style. Norice that the older boys wear open sports collsrs. Their little brother wears an Eton collar and tie.

The styling and popularity of the various types of pants or trousers worn with suits as well as the age conventions have varied over time. Of course the different types of pants were worn during the various periods affected by age, family preferences, regional, seasonal, social class differences, and other factors. Knee breeches were common during the 18th century. This was the style in the cities. Most Americans at the time, however lived in rural areas. And we are less sure what boys in rural areas and frontier areas wore. Only at the end of the century did some boys begin wearing long pants and fashionable urban men took even longer to make the change. Boys commonly wore long pants during the early and mid 19th century. Kneepants and knicker bloomers appeared in the mid-19th century. It seems to have been a style for fashionable families, but the photographic record suggests that these shortened-length pants were not very common. Knee pants appeared more commonly in the 1860s and became an increasingly important type of pants for boys as the 19th century progressed, especially in urban areas. Knee pants were very widely worn by the 1880s and boys of all ages were wearing them in the 1890s. There was some difference between urban and rural areas. At the turn of the 20th century, straignt-leg knee pants were the standard pants types for boys. This continued to be the case during the 1900s. Knickers gradually became more important in the early-20th century. By the 1910s, most boys were wearing knickers. Younger boys might still wear knee pants. Short pants appeared after World War I, but knickers were more popular. Short pants were never as popular in America as they were in Europe. We arenot sure why this dichotomy developed, but it was very pronounced. We do see younger boys wearing Eton and other short pants suits. Here there was a social class factor at play. Long pants increased in popularity during the 1930s and rapidly replaced knickers in the late-30s and early-40s. Younger boys might wear short psnts suits, but this gradualy declined in popularity, especialy by the 1970s. At the same time suits in general declined in popularity.

The 17th Century


The 18th Century

The styling and popularity of the various types of pants or trousers worn with suits as well as the age conventions have varied over time. Of course the different types of pants were worn during the various periods affected by age, family preferences, regional, seasonal, social class differences, and other factors. Knee breeches were common during the 18th century. This was the style in the cities. Most Americans at the time, however lived in rural areas. And we are less sure what boys in rural areas and frontier areas wore. Only at the end of the century did some boys begin wearing long pants and fashionable urban men took even longer to make the change.

The 19th Century

American boys commonly wore long pants during the early and mid 19th century. The standard suit sdtyle was the sketon suit. They were mostly worn in cities. Boys also wore tunics with long pants in the early-19th century. Kneepants and knicker bloomers appeared in the mid-19th century. It seems to have been a style for fashionable families, but the photographic record suggests that these shortened-length pants were not very common. Photographs first appeared in the 1840s giving us a way of assessing popular fashions. Knee pants appeared more commonly in the 1860s. CDVs and cabinet cards appeared in large numbers. Knee pants at first were worn by younger boys and tended to be long--commonly cut at calf level. Long pants continued to bevthe primary type of trouswrs worn by Amerivsn boys. Knee pants, however, became an increasingly important type of pants for boys as the 19h century progressed, especially younger boys in urban areas. Norfolk styling was popular. And Little Lord Fauntleroy suits appeared for younger boys. Both were worn with knee pants. Knee pants were very widely worn by the 1880s, but still by younger boys. This changed in the 1890s, we begion to see older boys wearing knee pants. Boys of all ages were wearing knee pants by the late-1890s. There was some difference between urban and rural areas.

The 20th Century

At the turn-of-the 20th century, straignt-leg knee pants were the standard pants types for boys. This continued to be the case during the 1900s. We also see knickers, but they were not as popular. We Knickers gradually became more important in the 1900s and by the end of the decade, many boys were wearing them. By the 1910s, mpst boys were primarily wearing knickers. Younger boys might still wear knee pants. Short pants appeared after World War I, but knickers were more popular and the standard boys' pants type. Short pants appeared after World War I. Shorts were never as popular in America as they were in Europe, but they were worn by younger boys. They were not at first entirely seaonal. Boys miight wear shorts with longvbstockings during the inter. Knee socks were also worn. We are not sure why this dichotomy between America and EDurope developed, but it was very pronounced. Climate may have been a factor, but was clearly not the only reason. We do see younger boys wearing Eton and other short pants suits. Here there was a social class factor at play. Knickers were still the primary pants tyype worn by boys in the early-30s. We see fewer older boys wearing knickers and long pants increased in popularity during the decade. Knickers were rapidly replaced knickers in the late-30s and early-40s. We rarely see them by the late-40s. Younger boys might wear short psnts suits in the 1940s, but gradualy declined in popularity, especialy by the 1970s. Boys even younger boys almost always wore long pants suits by the 1980s, except perhaps for formal events like weddings. Younger boys might wear short pants Eton suits. Even these became less common in the 9-0s. At the same time suits in general declined in popularity for boys, especially by the 1970s.

The 21st Century









HBC






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Created: 6:49 AM 5/22/2010
Last updated: 11:40 PM 2/18/2012