United States Norfolk Suits: Types and Styles

Norfolk suit
Figure 1.--This boy from York, Pennsylvania wear a double breasted jacket with Norfolk styling. Note how high up and how small the lapels are. The cabinent card was undated, but probably taken in the 1880s. You can clearly see the vertical vents in the jacket.

There are two basic styles of American Norfolk jackets, collar buttoning and lapel sack suit jackets. Both of these tyoes had a wide range of sylistic variations which varied over time as the Norfolk suit remained in style for nearly hakf a century. We see suits with only minor Norfolk styling. This was often seen in the 19th century. The collar-buttoning suits were mostly worn in the 19th century. The lapel suits were worn in both the late-19th and early 20th centuries. There were quite a range of stylistic variations for both types of suits. The variations involve both the Norfolk styling and other basic features of the suit. This involves both the collars and lapels, sleeves, buttoning arrangements, and other factors. As a result, there was substantial variety in these jackets. Many of these stylistic variations affected other types of suits during each chronological period.

Suit Types


Collar Buttoning Jackets

The collar buttoning jacket is one of the two types of Norfolk jackets. There were a wide range of stylistic variations during the 1880s and 90s when these jackets were most common. We see these 19th century suits with only minor Norfolk styling as well as others with extensive Norfolk styling. The collar-buttoning suits were mostly worn in the 19th century. There were quite a range of stylistic variations. The variations involved both the Norfolk styling and other basic features of the suit. This involves both the collars, sleeves, buttoning arrangements, and other factors. As a result, there was substantial variety in these jackets. Many of these stylistic variations affected other types of suits during each chronological period.

Lapel Sack Suit Jackets

The lapel sack suit jacket the second of the two types of Norfolk jackets. There were a wide range of stylistic variations which varied over time as this type of Norfolk jacket was worn over an extended period--nearly half of a century. The lapel suits were worn in both the late-19th and early 20th centuries. There were quite a range of stylistic variations. The variations involved both the Norfolk styling and other basic features of the suit. This involves both the lapels, sleeves, buttoning arrangements, and other factors. We note both inle and dounle-breasted jackets. As a result, there was substantial variety in these jackets. Many of these stylistic variations affected other types of suits during each chronological period.

Styling

One of the two important Norfolk design elements were what box pleats, often paired. There were different approached to the vertical elements or pleats. They also varied in prominance. Some are barely noticable while others stand out. The well-made Norfolk suit had these vertical pleats on the front and continued on the back. We are not sure all boys' suits had the vertical pleats continued on the back. This is impossible to tell from the photographic record. Some jackets only had the vertical elements. We believe that these were reffered to as Norfolk jackets even without the belts. Some had belts as well, but in the 19th century the vertical elements without the belts was the most common style were the most commom. The second Norfolk element was the horizontal waist self-belt. This was a partial self built done in the same material as the rest of the suit. We do not see the belts on many of the 19th century suits, but we see it very commonly on the 20th century Norfolk suits. We are not sure why all of the sudden, manufacturwrs decoded to add the belt. Like the vertical elements, the belts were done in various styles and approaches adding to the stylistic variety of the suit.






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Created: 12:54 AM 4/3/2005
Last updated: 10:08 PM 7/14/2022