French Catalogs: Old England: American Sailor Suits, 1919


Figure 1.--We note an advertisment from what looks to be a fashionable clothing shop called Old England. We associate France with fashionable clothes, but foreign styles often have cachet, even in France which probably explains the name of the shop. We do not know just what kind of clothing they handeled, but a 1919 ad suggests they offered childrens anfd youth clothes for both boys and girl. The name suggests they offered English styles, but we are not entirely sure how literaly they took this. Interestingly the advertisement offered American sailor suits (Marin Américain). They were offered in sizes 3-14 years, although the short pants only went through age 12 years when purchaed separately.

We have yet to find many French advertisements or catalogs for 1919. France was still recovering from the War. We are not sure just how the fashion industry fared in France immediately after the War. We do note an advertisment from what looks to be a fashionable Paris clothing botiqe named Old England. It was established in 1867 and still exists today and is located in a uppe-end shoping area of Paris. The prices are rather expensive. We associate France with fashionable clothes, but foreign styles often have cachet, even in France which probanly explains the name of the shop. We do not know just what kind of clothing they handeled, but a 1919 advertisement suggests they offered childrens and youth clothes for both boys and girl.

Post-War Fashions

We have yet to find many French advertisements or catalogs for 1919. France was still recovering from the War. We are not sure just how the fashion industry fared in France immediately after the War. We do noite more casual fashions becoming popular. These sailor suits look similar to pre-War styles. Many military styles were not popular after the war, but the sailor suit seems somehow to have escaped the aproprium of anti-military feeling. Sailor suits continued to be popular in both France and Germany after the War.

Old England Botique

We do note an advertisment from what looks to be a fashionable Paris clothing botiqe named Old England. It was established in 1867 and still exists today and is located in a uppe-end shoping area of Paris. The prices are rather expensive. We associate France with fashionable clothes, but foreign styles often have cachet, even in France which probanly explains the name of the shop. We do not know just what kind of clothing they handeled, but a 1919 advertisement suggests they offered childrens and youth clothes for both boys and girl. The name suggests they offered English styles, but we are not entirely sure how literaly they took this. Interestingly the advertisement offered American sailor suits (Marin Américain).

Sizes

The sailor suits here were offered in sizes 3-14 years, although the blouses and pants when purchased separately only went through age 12 years. When bought separately the culottes (short pants) were only vailable to size 12 years. I think this meant that boys 13-14 would dress up in short pants as part of a sailor suit, but not when worn as part of other outfits. Perhaps our French readers will have a better insight on this. A reader tells us, "No idea why the sailor suits were done like this. At the time, short pants were done for boys through sizes 13/14 years. And Norfolk suits were done through size 16 years. Let's notice we are just after World War and mothers still wanted to dress boys and younger teenagers as children. French mothers definittely abandoned the small-adult look for children. I think these sailor suits outfits sold by Old England with their simple, juvenil stylong would have appeled to mothers."

American Cachet

All these sailor suits are called the same--American sailor suits. America had of course entered the War (1917) and helped to save France. Thus all things American were fashionable for a while. I can't see just how the styling was American, but the name was.

Color

The suits were mostly blue and white, but we also notice beige used as an option in the the right suit (Number 62).White outfits like this were for spring and summer wear. Notice that the detailing was done in blue or black. We had thought that these suits mostly had navy blue detailing, but apparently black was also used. We are not sure why because we think navy blue (a dark blue) was mostly used in actual naval uniforms.

Coutil

These sailor suits were done in coutil, sometimes written coutille. Coutil is a cotton fabric similar to denim with good durability, a hard wearing fabric for boys. It was also commonly used for corsets. It is a tightlky woven fabric which ws useful for corsets because it resisted the penetration of the corset's bones as well as did not stretch much.

Outfits

There are three outfits shown. The ad copy provides some interesting details about the three outfits.

60: Left Outfit

There were several options. The first choice was for a complete sailor suit with blouse and short pants (Culottes) in sizes 3-14 years. The ad copy read 'Col bleu marine ou noir, col et manchettes mobiles'. This meant that the sailor collar was done in navy blue or black and the collar and decorative cuffs were removable. I did not know that the cuffs could be removed. Thi of course so that they could be washed either more often or without bleach. The other option was the 'Blouse seule (sans plastron)'. This meant the blouse only without dickey. The other option was 'Culotte seule' meaning short pants only. The crevate noir en plus meaning additional black scarfe and plastron meaning dickey could be purchased separately. Also offered was the sailor cap. It was described as, 'Béret toile blanche, ruban marin," meaning beret white cloth, ribbon sailor style.

Chemise

An option not shown was a ' Chemise marin très échancrée,' meaning sailor shirt with the neckline cut very open.

61: Center Outfit

This sailor suit seems identical to the one at left only done with long pants. For some reason it was only done in sizes through age 12 years in contrast to the first suit with shirt pants done through sdize 14 years. The ad copy reads, 'En coutil blance. Col bleau ou noir. col et manchettes mobiles.' This meant in white coutil. The collar was done in navy blue or black and the collar and decorative cuffs were removable. The blouse without dickey and the long pants could be purchased separately. Akso offerd was the cravate noire en plus, meaning additional black scarfe.

62: Right Outfit

The ad copy for thec outfit at right read, 'Complet en coutil, bleu et blanc, noir et blanc, noir et blanc et beige. Col et manchettes marine ou noir.' This meant compleat in coutil, blue and white, black and white, black and white and beige. Collar and cuffs blue or black. It was available in sizes 3-14 years. These complete outfits with short pants were sold for boy untill 14 years. The culottes (shirt pants) coulkd be purchased separely, but only to sizes 12 years. This is the same convention as with the outfit at the left. 'Cravate soie extra' means scarfe, silk first class. Also offered is a 'Chapeau toile blanche, ruban marin.' This meant hat white cloth, ribbon sailor style.







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Created: 5:50 AM 2/17/2012
Last updated: 8:39 PM 2/19/2012