Figure 1.--The Aux Trois Quartiers department store in October 1933 offered two styles of coats for younger boys beginning at age 2 years. One was a sailor-styled reefer jacket and the other a classic child's coat. Note the two styles of headwear.
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Figure 1.--The Aux Trois Quartiers department store in October 1933 offered two styles of coats for younger boys beginning at age 2 years. One was a sailor-styled reefer jacket and the other a classic child's coat. Note the two styles of headwear. |
The Aux Trois Quartiers department store in Paris offered two styles of overcoats for younger boys in a October 1933 advertisement. two styles of coats for younger boys beginning at age 2 years. One was a sailor-styled reefer jacket and the other a classic child's coat. Both were double breasted styles. The store does not tell us what the upper range was for the sailor coat, but the other coat was available for children in sizes up to 8 years. Pricing depends on the size of the coat.
The first jacket is a double-breasted sailor jacket with reefer styling. The ad copy reads,"SU. 6030. Vareuse ratine marine pure laine avec martingale pli Watteau, 2 ans Fr 105. 130. 155. 175. 5 Frs en plus par àge." This would translate as something like, "Sailor [ratine?] jacket pure wool with [martingale?] fold [Watteau?], 2 years Fr 105. 130. 155. 175. 5 Frs addition for each additional year." A French reader tells me that "pli Watteau" is a now not commonly used term meaning a double pleat placed at the middle of the back
and extending to bottom hem of the coat and was considered very smart (stylish) for a boy. This "pli Watteau" was fixed with the help of a "martingale" which is a half belt in the back. Although the upper size range is not mentioned in may be the same as the coat or 8 years. The jacket appears to have brass buttons which are repaeated as an ornament on the cuff. "Ratine" is a type of woolen cloth where the hair is pulled outside, given somewhat idea of fur. "Martingale" is a small piece of cloth used to keep together both sides at back of garment, about like a belt. "Pli Watteau" is apparently a type of fold, maybe linked somehow to famed French painter Watteau.
Theother coat is a classically styled coat for a younger child. The ad copy reads, "SU. 6032. Manteau baby, pli Watteau martingale trés jolie draperie fantaisie gris ou beige. 2 à 4 ans Fr. 115-135. 6 à 8 ans Fr. 125-145." This would translate as something like, "Child's coat, fold Watteau pretty martingale (half belt) very pretty fancy serge in gray or beige. 2 to 4 years Fr 115-135. 6 to 8 years Fr 125-145." The use of "baby" does not mean baby in the English style, but rather the use of a foreign word to make the garment seem mpre stylish. The sence used here would be translated more like "young child" or "todler".
Note how the garments are priced by the age of the child with the larger sizes requiring more fabric, slightly more expensive. This is coomon in French clothing ads through the 1930s. Clothes are no longer priced like this. HBC believes that this is in part a reflection that in the fabric was once a much more important component of production costs than today when the labor and marketing costs involved are the major cost, except for especially luxurious fabrics.
The sailor hat pictured was still the old-styled flat cap. We have seen these caps advertized in the mid 1930s, but by the end of the decade had been repaced by older styles. This style was popular among World War I era navies. The other hat is a narowe-beimmed style popular for younger children.
HBC makes every effort to translate the French ad cpy as it often includes interesting details about the garments. We here at HBC do not speak French, but we know many French terms. Our French readers assistvas best they can. The ad copy because they often use dated or trade words are not easy to translate. We encourage readers to comment on the translations if they have any insights or comments.
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