Figure 1.- Galeries Lafayette offered quite a range of school smocks in 1937. Galeries Lafayette is an important store Paris department store. The illustrations show girl models, but many of the different smocks are labeled for both girls and boys. We hope to work up the ad copy for each of the different styles. Click on the image for a more readable version.

Galeries Lafayette offered quite a range of school smocks in 1937. Galeries Lafayette is an important Paris department store. The illustrations show girl models, but many of the different smocks are labeled for both girls and boys. At the bottom left, we can see the usual 'tablier noir' worn by boys and girls in black and buttoned at rear. At right, another one, also buttoned at rear and worn by boys and girls, is blue and white. What is interesting in this advertizing is that we can see those smocks as they were worn by bigger girls such as number 24 where it is specified that it is a 'tablier d'écolier' (boys' smock) even if the model is a girl. It seems that a 'blouse' is always buttoned at front and worn by boys also as it is written at number 25.

Galeries Lafayette

Galeries Lafayette offered quite a range of school smocks in 1937. Galeries Lafayette is an important store Paris department store. The Louvre of department stores carries over 75,000 brand names, and welcomes (in the loosest sense) the equivalent of the entire population of Paris each month. Concessions run from Yohji Yamamoto to Gap. The menswear department has recently been given a make over and is now one of the largest in Europe. Also look for enormous departments dedicated to lingerie (an entire floor), beauty products, kitchenwares, books, records, home furnishings and even souvenirs. The two sixth floor restaurants offer panoramic views; Café Sushi is in adjoining Lafayette Maison.

School Smocks

Many French children in the 1930s wore school smocks. Some schools required them. More commonly it was the mothers who insisted. French boys have not commonly worn formal school uniforms like their across the Channel English cousins. French boys beginning in the 1870s, however, began wearing smocks to school. Through much of the first half of the 20th century, elementary school boys in France wore school smocks over their clothes. As this was a very common practice, it gave the appearance of a school uniform. Not all French schoolboys wore smocks. One account from 1900 describes a French boy who began the lycee wearing a sailor suit with long curls his mother dearly loved. Smocks appear, however to have been fairly common school wear through the 1930s and early 1950s, but declined after World War II (1945). They were still seen in thr 1960s, but mostly with younger boys. Smocks became increasingly less worn in the 1970s.

Terminology

The primary French term for school smock is "tablier". At the bottom left, we can see the number 30 the common "tablier noir" worn by boys and girls in black and buttoned at rear. Here Galeries Lafayette seems to be using the term "blouse" as a type of smock. It seems that a "blouse" is always buttoned at front and worn by boys also as it is written at number 25.

Gender

The illustrayions give the impression that these are girls' school smocks. The illustrations show girl models, but many of the different smocks are labeled for both girls and boys. At right, another one, also buttoned at rear and worn by boys and girls, is blue and white. What is interesting in this advertizing is that we can see those smocks as they were worn by bigger girls such as number 24 where it is specified that it is a "tablier d'écolier" (boys' smock) even if the model is a girl. While the ad copy for some of these smocks specifies gender appropriateness, for many no mention is made of gender. I'm not sure what is mean here. Since the models are girls, perhaps it is understood that these are girls' smocks. Hopefully our French readers will provide us some insights here.

Styles

We note quite a few different styles of smocks. There are differences in styling, detailing, and material. I have worked up the ad copy for several of these smocks. Although you have to look closely, the page is set up so the models shown have a small number indicating the differents styles they are illustrating. Hopefully our French readers will help work up the ad copy for the rest of the styles.

17. Couches

The ad copt reac, "Couches ceil-de-pendrix .. La-douzalne. 32 Fr." I 'm not sure what a couche is. The ceil means light blue or sky blue. I'm not sure what the asd copy says.

20. Tablier

The ad copy reads, "MT-44275. Tablier en Vichy b/s ?ml extra, col rouge ou bleu, garni galons blancs. Le 40 Fr10.75. Ou 40 ?? 80 Et Fr 1.25 par 0m05." That would translate as, " Smock in gingham ?? ?? ??, collar in red or blue, detailed ?? whote. Size 40 cm Fr10.75. Fr 1.25 fo every additiinal 5 cm."

21. Blouse paletot

Blouse appers to mean a front-buttoning smock. The ad copy reads, "Blouse paletot beau satin noir, pour filette ou garçonnet, Du 60 au 110. Le 60 ... Fr 10.50. Et Fr2 par 0m10." Paletot" means "cardigan", at least for one of its meanings. Cardigans in English always are front buttoning of course. "Blouse" as in English has several meanings. One is a smock, commonly a front-buttoning smock. The term "blouse paletot would definitely be a front buttoning smoxk. This would be a French alternative to "tablier". So I'd say "Cardigan-style smock in good black satin, for boy or girl Made in sizes 60-110 cm. The 60 cm size Fr. 10.50. And Fr2 for each extra 10 cm."

22. Tablier

The ad copy read, "MT-44277. Tablier boutons côte, satin noir tres belle qualité, garni galon rouge, Du 60 au 90. Le 60 .. 17.50. Et 1.50 par 0m05." This translates as, "Side buttoning smock, Bery beautiful quality blacl satin, setailed with red [galon?]. Made in sizes 60-90cm. The 60 cm size costs Fr 17.50. Karger sizes cost Fr1.50 for each extra 5cm."

23. Blouse

Notice that this smock is called a blouse. I do not, however, see any differenece in style between it and the smocks called "blouse paletot". They both look to be front- buttoning lab style smocks with lapels. The ad copy read, "MT-44277. Blouse Vichy [usl?] belle qualité, ceinture régable avec boucles [bls?] bleu et rose. Du 60 au 110. Le 60 .. 7.50. Et 1.50 par 0m10. This means, "Gingham smock ??? good quality gingham, adjustable belt with buckle ?? blue and red. The 60 cm size costs Fr 7.50. Larger sizes Fr1.50 for extra 10cm."

24. Tablier d'ecolier

Another one, also buttoned at rear and worn by boys and girls, is blue and white. What is interesting in this advertizing is that we can see those smocks as they were worn by bigger girls such as number 24 where it is specified that it is a "tablier d'écolier" (boys' smock) even if the model is a girl. "The ad copy reads, "MT-44279. Tablier d'ecolier boutons dos ou boutons côté, satin noir belle qualité. Du 60 au90 .. Le 60 Fr12.50. Et Fr1 par 0m05." This means. "School smock with back or side buttons, good quality black satin. The size 60 cm Fr12.50. And Fr1 for each extra 5 cm."

25. Blouse

It seems that a "blouse" is always buttoned at front and worn by boys also as it is written at number 25. The ad copy read, "MT-44280. Blouse pour garçonnet, en beau Vichy grlsajlle, article d'usage. Du 60 au 110. Le 60, 15. Et 2 par 0m10." This neans Smock for boy en good giungham ?? ?? ??. The size 60cm Fr15. And Fr2 for each extra 10cm."

26. Tablier d'étude

I think this means study smock. It looks to us to be a fairly standard girls' school smock. I'm not sure why étude was used rather than écolier. They both seen to mean scholl smock and in fact seem unnecessary term because tablier itself was widely used to mean school smock without any added adjetive. The ad copy read, "Tablier d'étude trés beau satin noir, envers crolsé, ancre rouge brodée main pour fillette ou garçonnet. Du 60 au 90. Le 60 .. 17. Et 1.50 par 0m05." That meant, "School smock beautiful black satin, [towards crolsé, anchors] hand embroidered red detailing for young girl or small boy. Made in sizes 60 to 90 cm. The 60 cm size cost Fr 17. Larger sizes were an additional Fr1.50 for each extra 5 cm."

27. Blouse-paletot

This is a smock for older children. The ad copy read, "MT-44282. Blouse-paletot, satin royal qualité extra. Du 70 au 110. Le 70 ... 19.75. Et 4. par 0m10." This means, "Cardigan-style (front buttoning) smock, royal sation (I'm not sure just how royal sation differeed from regular satin), extra quality. Made in sizes 70-110 cm. The 70 cm smock cost Fr 19.75. Larger sizes cost Fr 4 for each extra 10 cm."

28. Blouse

29. Blouse

30. Tablier d'ecolier

The ad copy read, "MT-44285. Tablier d'ecolier satin noir, ??? ??? extra, bouton dos, pour filette ou garçonnet. Du 60 au 90. Le 60 ... 15.75. Et 2 par 0m05." This means, "School smock black satin ?? ?? back buttons for girl or boy. Made in sizes 60 to 90 cm. Size 60 Fr 15.75. And Fr2 for each extra 5 cm."

31. Tablier

This smock is not labeled a school smock, but the term "tablier" was commonly used for school smock. I'm not sure why other smocks were laveled "tablier d'ecolier" and this one was not. The ad copy read, "MT-44286 Tablier pour fillett ou garçonnet, beau Vichy damlera bleu et blance ou rouge et blanc. Du 40 au 60. Le 40 .. &.95. Et 1. par 0m05." This means "Smock for girl or boy, good quality ginham damlera/checked? blue and white or red and white. Made in sizes 40 to 60 cm. The 40 com size costs Fr 7.95. Add 1 Fr for each extra 5 cm."

Terminology

There are several different terms used for smocks on this page. We are not entirely sure whu these different terms were used in many cases. Click here for our assessment of the different French terms for smocks.

Material

Most of the smocks are made in Vichy (gingham) or satin. Gingam seems a easy to care for inexpebnsive material, perfect for smocks. Satin seems arather strange choice of material. In America, satin was an expensive material, often for dressy garments. It seems an unlikely choice of material for scgool smocks. Perhaps our French readers can explain why it was chosen.

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Created: 5:18 PM 10/27/2004
Last updated: 2:02 PM 8/22/2005