Figure 1.-- The 1910s in Germany as in other European countries were domianted by World War I. We do not yet have many entries from German catalogs from the 1910s. We do have a page from a 1913 Kaufhaus des Westens catalog with a variety of Leibchens (stocking supporters/bodices). |
The 1910s in Germany as in other European countries were domianted by World War I. We do not yet have many entries from German catalogs from the 1910s. We do have a page from a 1913 Kaufhaus des Westens catalog with a variety of Leibchens (stocking supporters). I do not know much about this company yet, except that it was locted in Berlin. One garment discussed in the German clothing section was a "Leibchen"--a vest-like garment worn under a boy's shirt to which hose supporters were sewn or otherwise attached. The fact that two of the Leibchens here are for girls and he third for boys and girls suggests to us that Leibchen were primarily, but not exclusively worn by girls. The Kaufhaus des Westens page here offers three styles of Leibchens. The upper two illustrate the kind of support garments young girls and "Misses" (girls in their later teens) were wearing in 1913.
This page is from the Kaufhaus des Westens catalog in 1913, just before World War I. Das "Kaufhaus des Westens" (or KaDeWe" for short in Berlin slang) is an early department store (if not the earliest one in Germany or Berlin). The store still exists and is now part of Karstadt-Quelle group. It is located
in the western shopping area of Berlin near Kurfürstendamm, Kranzler-Eck with a famous Cafe - now out of business -, Bahnhof Zoo, and Kaiser-Wilhelm-Gedächtniskirche. During the Cold War it was in the the Western Sector the centre of the city (like for New Yorkers Fifth Avenue). It is a very big store. It was founded by a Jewish merchant. And since the NAZI era has had a difficult history. It was first sold to non-Jewish relatives to avoid the Araynization laws. Nevertheless it was confiscated by the NAZIs. After World War II it was sold by a government agency to Karstadt. Ther are still currently court proceedings aimed at compensate the relations of the original family owners.
Here the German state and Karstadt disagree over who is responsible. The store for people living in Berlin is an important city symbol like the Brandenburger Tor (during the Cold War border between East and West), the Tiergarten, the Kurfürstendamm and the socalled Kranzler-Eck, or the former castle in the East (during the DDR after war damages totally destroyed, now under strong consideration fore rebuilding).
One garment discussed in the German clothing section was a "Leibchen"--a vest-like garment worn under a boy's shirt to which hose supporters were sewn or otherwise attached. (I don't believe the German boys had safety pins at the tops of their garters as the American boys usually did.) The Leibchen ordinarily buttoned up the back and was apparently made of some sturdy material (jean cloth?) that would take the strain of the attached hose supporters. This may be the garment which the two cyclists in your pages on German Long Stockings are wearing although one of your German contributors in "Long Stockings: Length" mentions that older boys "had shorter garters fixed at a waist belt similar to that worn by their mothers, but of course without all the adornment of women's garter belts." Note that the stockings are very long in these pictures and that the supporters fasten very high on the leg under very short shorts. Some of these Leibchens appear to have only two garters in front--one for each stocking--while others seem to have four garters--two for each stocking.
The fact that two of the Leibchens here are for girls and he third for boys and girls suggests to us that Leibchen were primarily, but not exclusively worn by girls.
The Kaufhaus des Westens page here offers three styles of Leibchens.
The upper two illustrate the kind of support garments young girls and "Misses" (girls in their later teens) were wearing in 1913.
The first image at the top (on the left) is called a "Kinderleibchen" (children's bodice), but it seems to be designed principally for girls because of the form-fitting aspect. It is made of corset-like cotton material, comes in either white or "natural" (apparently a kind of unbleached beige or perhaps grey), has
straps at the shoulders for size adjustment, buttons down the front, and has buttons at the sides so that hose supporters can be attached over the hips for long stockings. Notice that the Germans didn't use safety pins for attaching garters, as the Americans did, but used buttons instead. This garment comes in two sizes, the dimensions of the two sizes in height and width being given in centimeters. The
smaller size sells for 1.50 Marks and the larger for 1.75 Marks.
The garment at the top right is referred to as a "Reformleibchen" (that is,
a bodice without the constrictions of a body-deforming corset with whale bones that had been much recommended for growing children and women in the early years of the 20th century and that represented an enlightened and healthy break from the tight-corseting of the 19th century). This garment is somewhat more form-fitting at the waist than the bodice at the left, but still allows the wearer greater freedom.
It also buttons down the front so that it can be easily put on and removed, but has lacing in back for adjustment of waist size. The shoulder straps button at the breast level but seem to have no provision for size adjustment. Curiously, no buttons for attaching hose supporters are shown, which probably means that a separate garter belt would have been worn on top. The more adult Leibchen for older
girls and Misses comes in two grades. The less expensive model is offered in White or grey "Drell" (a coarse cotton material) at 2.50 Marks, while the more expensive model is made of satin and can be purchased in either white or "mode" (pink or rose) at 3.50 Marks. A German reader tells us that the "Reformleibchen" was "certainly mainly for girls".
The Leibchen at the bottom is unisex--designed for either boys or girls
from ages 2 to 12. It is designated as a "Gesundheitsleibchen" (a health bodice), which means essentially that it is athletically styled for greater freedom of movement. Notice that it has wide arm openings and is open both in front and in back for greater lightness. A chest strap keeps the shoulder straps from slipping off the child's shoulders. The waist band has an upper and a lower level. The band at the higher level has buttons for the attachment of additional clothing
(such as bloomers, drawers, or knee pants) while the lower band is
equipped with two short tabs with a button at the end for the fastening
of hose supporters. Again we note that the attachment of garters is by
means of buttons rather than of safety pins (as in the United States).
The boys and girls' Leibchen seems to be made in a gray cotton material
(although no specific material is mentioned) and costs 1.10 Marks.
The text here can be roughly translated: "Health Bodice for boys and
girls, made in sizes from 2 to 12 years of age. Marks 1.10. On your
order form state correct age and waist size." A German reader tells us that the and "Gesundheitsleibchen" are in German what the English refer to as a "liberty bodice".
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