Figure 1.--Here we have a page from the Grand magasins Jelmoli in 1938. This page in the Summer cayalog offered a variety of pants for boys. We note a number of different styles and materials as well as a range of sizes.
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Figure 1.--Here we have a page from the Grand magasins Jelmoli in 1938. This page in the Summer cayalog offered a variety of pants for boys. We note a number of different styles and materials as well as a range of sizes. |
The Jelmoli catalog had a page devoted to trousers. Most were boys' short trousers, but there were also some men's trousers as well. We note a number of different styles and materials. Apair of knickers was offered on the suit page.
We note a catalog form the Grand magasins Jelmoli. Grand magasins Jelmoli has for many years been the flagship department store chain of Switzerland. Johann Peter Jelmoli-Ciolina founded founded the store in 1938 by . Ciolina must have been the maiden name of his wife. He was from the Swiss-italian section of Switerland. The company has always been headquartered in Zurich where the flag-ship department store was opened. It opened branches throughout Switrzerland, but a few years back it sold or closed all its branches and only kept the large store in Zurich. I would say it was always an "up-scale" department store. The catalog-department was a very small part of their operations and the catalogs carried a very small amount of merchandise, compared to what was available in their stores. The catalog-department was added in 1899.
We notice several different styles of boys' short pants done in various styles and materials (figure 1). These pants were mostly done in sizes up to age 14, but one was for boys up to age 18. The shorts for plder bous were Boy Scout (Pfadfinderhosen) cord trousers.
The Jelmoli ad copy read, "Knaben-Manchesterhose, 1A Qualitaet, ganz gefuettert, grau oder braun meliert oder braun uni. Fuer 3 bis 14 Jahre." This translates as, "Boy Manchester (corduroy) trousers (shorts), 1st quality, completely lined, spreckeled grey or brown meliert or brown university. [Note: I'm confused about the color here.] For boys 3 to 14 years." The price started t Fr 6.25 and increased by size.
The Jelmoli ad copy read, "Knabenhose, ganz gefuettert, gute Wollstoffe, englisch gmuster, grau oder braun, bis 2 Jahre mit Gstaeltli (waist or perhaps suspender straps) 2-14 Jahre." This translates as, "Boys' trousers (shorts) , completely lined, good woolen fabric, English design(ed), grey or brown, until 2 years with Gstaeltli (Waist) 2-14 years." It looks like these trousers are herringbone, a popular English fabric. As far as I can tell there is no mention of this in the ad copy. I don't know what Gstältli means, it is a very Swiss word. Diminutive of Gestalt. The prices ranged from Fr 4.90 to 10.
The Jelmoli ad copy read, "Pfadfinderhosen aus dunkelblauem Manchesterm ganz gefuettert, mit Doppelgesaess und einer hinteren Tasche Jahre 7 – 18." This translates as, "Pathfinder (Boy Scout) trousers in dark-blue corduroy, completely lined with double seat and a back pocket. For boys 7 - 18 years." Here I believe these were Boy Scout style shorts, not just for actual Scouts. Like many Scout shorts in Europe, they were done in corduroy. The price ranged from Fr 7.25 to 12.50.
The Jelmoli ad copy read, "Knabenhose, reinwollen, blau Kammgarn, gefuettert, mit Gurtenschlaufen, fuer 2 Jahre mit Gstaeltli (Waist). 2 – 14 Jahre." This translates as, "Boys' trousers (shorts), Pure wool, blue worsted, lined, with belt loops, for 2 years with Gstältli (Waist). 2 - 14 years." The price ranfe from 6.25 to 11.25.
The Jelmoli ad copy read, "Knabenhose, solides Halbtuch, blau, grau oder braeunlich, bis 2 Jahe mit Gstaeltli (Waist) 2 – 14 Jahre." This translates as, "Boys' trousers (shorts), solid half cloth, blue, grey or brownish,, till 2 years with "Gstältli". For boys age 2 - 14 years." The prices ranged from Fr 3.90 to 7.90.
The Jelmoli ad copy read, "Leinen-Wanderhose, grau oder weiss, waschecht Jahre 5 – 16." The ad copy read, "Linen wlking trousers (shorts), grey or white, fast dyed. For boys age 5 - 16 years." These shorts were made in larger sizes for men. The boys' shorts were priced at Fr 5.80 to 10.80.
These shorts as can be noted in the image here are cut differently than the other short pants on the page. I am not sure just why they were cut differently. The Jelmoli ad copy read, "Knaben-Waschose, solider Coutil, marineblau, Gurtschlaufen, fester Gummizug und 2 Gesaesstaschen. Jahre 3 – 16." This translates as, "Boy "wash-pants" (shorts), solid Coutil, navay blue, belt loops, firm elastic waistband and 2 small back pockets. Fpr boys age 3-16 years." The prices ranged from Fr 2.80 to 5.20.
The Jelmoli ad copy read, "Waschose aus Coutil, dunkleblau,oder braun meliertem Covercoatstoff. 3 – 14 Jahre." This translates as, "Wash pants (shorts) of Coutil, dark-blue, or brown spreckeled (spotted) Covercoat material. For boys age 3 - 14 years." The prices ranged from Fr 3.80 to 5.80.
The boys' pants here are all short pants. Some boys' suits were doe with knickes. We also notice a pair of knickers Jelmoli offered on the suits page, They were done in sizes 5-16 years. I think for the most part, younger boys in 1938 would have worn knickers only during the winter.
Looking at the illustrations in the catalog, I think the "older boy" pants are cut with belt-loops, more pockets and more rugged materials and naturally without "Gstaeltli"-waist.
The reference to Manchester trousers means corduroy. Manchester was a center of cloth manufacture from an early period of the Industrial Revolution. One of fabrics Manchester was best known for was corduroy to an extent that the German term for corduroy became Manchester. The verb "füttern" means feeding ( animals or children) and also to make a lining in garments So gefüttert in this case is not "fed" but "lined". I don't know what Gstältli means here in terms of clothing. It is a very Swiss word. Diminutive of Gestalt. Gestalt of course is a type of psychotherapy. A Swiss reader tells us that here "Gstaeltli" means a waist or an attachment on the pants that extends over the torso and over the shoulders to hold up the pants.
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