Montgomery Ward: Boys' Shirt Waists (1895)


Figure 1.--This is one of the styles of shirt waists offered by Wards in 1895. They were made in sizes 4-13 years of age. We don't see buttons on the waistband, but assume they were there. I'm not sure about the conventions for this shirt blouse.Note the waist buttons.

Ward's does not explain the difference between the blouse and shirt waists they offer. Based on the illustrations the difference appears to be that the shirt waists have buttons at the waistr rather than drawstrings like the blouse waists. The Ward's ad copy reads, "Boys' Shirt Waists. Weight of cotton waists, 4 to 5 ounces; blue flannel waists, 6 to 8 ounces. Sizes 4 to 13 years."

Terminology

Ward's does not explain the difference between the blouse and shirt waists they offer. Based on the illustrations the difference appears to be that the shirt waists have buttons at the waistr rather than drawstrings like the blouse waists. These buttons were used to hold up the boys' kneepants.

Age

We had thought that the blouse waits were for younger children than the shirt waists. Heree with the Ward's waists the age sizes for thre blouse and shirt waists were identical at 4-13 years. There were now age difference in the approprisateness of these two garments.

Styles

Ward's offered several different styles of shirt waists. Several were made in the same style, but different materials. The Ward's ad copy reads, "Boys' Shirt Waists. Weight of cotton waists, 4 to 5 ounces; blue flannel waists, 6 to 8 ounces. Sizes 4 to 13 years."
32410: Boys' Figured Calico Shirts Waists, plain front and back. Each $0.17. Per dozen, $1.85.
32412: Boys' Shirt Waists, 3 plaits down the front, assorted designs. Each $0.22. Per dozen, $2.38.
32413: Boys' Shirt Waists, Indigo blue, assorted white figures and designs, three plaits down front. Each $0.25, Per dozen, $2.70.
32414: Boys' Shirt Waists, 3 plaits down the front and 2 down the back, new designs in assorted colors. Each $0.30, Per dozen $3.25.
32415: Boys' Shirt Waists, medium colors, neat plaid cheviot, three plaits down front. Each $0.30, Per dozen, $3.30.
32417: Boys' Shirt Waists, medium stripe, domett flannel, three plaits down front. Each $0.30, Per dozen, $3.25.
32419: Boys' Shirt Waists, plaited front and back, crepe momie cloth, neat broken checks. Each $0.50; Per dozen, $5.40.
32421: Boys' Shirt Waists, extra fine and heavy penang cambric, 3 plaits down front and back. Each $0.50, Per dozen, $5.40.


Figure 2.--This is one of the styles of shirt waists offered by Wards in 1895. They were made in sizes 4-13 years of age. Note the waist buttons. This looks like it must have been a every-day waist.
32422: Boys' Heavy Union Flannel Shirt Waists, with pocket. Colors: Navy Blue, wine, medium brown or drab. Each $0.60.
32423: Boys' Shirt Waists, made from plain black sateen, plaited front and back. Each $0.50, Per dozen, $5.40.
32424: Boys' Laundried Shirt Waists, extra fine and heavy penang cambric; 3 plaits down front and back. Each $0.75, Per dozen, $8.10.
33425: All Wool Fine Flannel Shirt Waists, plaited front and back, pearl buttons, medium colors. Each $1.00.
32426: Boys' Shirt Waists, made from black sateen with neat white stripes, lace and button front combined, plaited front and back. Each $0.60, Per dozen, $6.50.
32428: Shirt Waists made from fancy striped domett flannel, lace and button front combined. Each $0.35, Per dozen, $3.78.
32430: Boys' Heavy Mixed Melton Flannel Shirt Waists, with pocket, lace and button front combined; dark colors. Each $0.40, Per dozen, $4.32.
32431: Boys' Navy Blue All Wool Twilled Flannel Shirt Waists, with pocket, lace and button front combined. Each $0.75, Per dozen, $8.10.
32432: Boys' All Wool Twilled Flannel Shirt Waists; pleated front and back, lace and button front combined. Colors: Wine, brown or drab. Each $1.00, Per dozen, $10.80.
32434: Boys' Shirt Waists, striped cotton cheviot, light ground, double ruffle down front, sailor collar with 1-inch ruffle. Each $0.30, Per dozen, $3.24.
32436: Boys' Shirt Waists, light ground striped chambray, double ruffle down front, sailor collar, turned over cuffs with ruffle. Each $0.45, Per dozen, $4.86.
32438: Boys' Shirt Waists, Indigo Blue, fancy figured penang; double ruffle down front, sailor collar, turned over cuffs with ruffle, pleated front and back. Each $0.55, Per dozen, $5.94.
32440: Boys' Shirt Waists, medium heavy stripe, cotton cheviot, double ruffle down front, sailor collar with ruffle, pleated front and back. Each $0.60, Per dozen, $6.48.

Dozen

Note that Ward's offers these waists by the dozen. We wonder why parents would want a dozen, especially s dozen of the same syle. Granted families were larger, but purchasing a doizen waists seems somewhat surprising.


Figure 3.--This is one of the styles of shirt waists offered by Wards in 1895. They were made in sizes 4-13 years of age. Note the waist buttons. This of course was a dressy shirt waist.

Conventions

We note a range of styles, both every day styles as well as dressy Sunday or party styles. Other styles are not real clear to us as to how they were worn.

Blouse Waists

Ward's also offered blouse waists. These were similar to shirt waists, but had drawstrings to close the blouse over the waist of the kneepants. We note thsat there were a lot more styles of shirt waists offered thsan blouse waists. We suspect that this means that shirt waists were more popular than blouse cwaists.

Mechanics

We beleve that the shirt waists were tucked into the trousers. The buttons were fitted into the button holes in the waistline of the kneepants that they were worn with. This differed from the blouse waists which were not attached in any ways with the pants. Rsther they were bloused over the waisdt of the kneepants and pulled snug with a waistband that ran through the hem of the blouse.

Button Discussion

A HBC reader writes, "Do you see any waist buttons on the 1895 shirt waists? They aren't visible to me. One model, perhaps, could have waist buttons, but I think in this case the buttons, if they are there at all, might just be decorative. In our later examples of button-on waists (compare the Sears 1930 page on shirt waists), the waist buttons are clearly prominent and visible. Is this difference worth pointing out?" HBC does not see buttons on figure 1, but I do on figures 2 and 3. They are located on the waistband. Figure 1 has a waistband, but I do not see buttons. I do not think they are decorative. Located there at the waistline they would not have been vissible. Even if not depicted well, they must have been there. Otherise the blouses would not have been secured and I can't think of one HBC image showuing shirt waists not well secured or hanging over the waist of the kneepants."






HBC






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Created: 2:37 AM 11/9/2004
Last updated: 5:25 PM 11/10/2004