Figure 1.--Here we have an illustration of two of the Zouave (sailor) suits offered by Ward's in 1895. Ward's refers to them as Zouave suits and we are not sure why.
|
Figure 1.--Here we have an illustration of two of the Zouave (sailor) suits offered by Ward's in 1895. Ward's refers to them as Zouave suits and we are not sure why. |
We notice a much smaller number of traditional sailor suits which for some reason unknown to us that Ward's calls Zouave suits. A reader writes, "'Zouave' comes from a mountain range in Algeria and was associated with a style of military uniforms worn in Algeria. All the 'Zouave' suits advertised in the 1895 Wards catalog seem to have certain military aspects--buttons, braid, etc. So this must be the explanation." HBC is not positive about this. We note that Zouave was also used for the Fauntleroy outfits. We think it might be the small jackets.
Although the word "consumerism" has a modern ring, it was personal concern for an early consumer movement, the "National Grange of the Patrons of Husbandry,"That inspired a young traveling salesman named Aaron Montgomery Ward to start the world's first general merchandise mail-order company in 1872. Aaron Montgomery Ward was born on February 17, 1844, in Chatham, New Jersey, to a family whose forebears had served as officers in the French and Indian Wars as well as in the American Revolution. Looking for something more compatible, Monty left home and followed the river to Lake Michigan and the town of St. Joseph, county seat and market for outlying fruit orchards. Chicago was the center of the wholesale dry goods trade and in the 1860s Ward joined the leading dry goods house, Field Palmer & Leiter. As a retailer, Potter Palmer had previously built a reputation for fair dealing. Ward absorbed these principles while working as a clerk
for $5. The Chicago City Directories for 1868 through 1870 listed Ward as a salesman for Wills, Greg & Co. and later for Stetthauers & Wineman, both dry goods houses. In 1870, after canvassing territory in Illinois, Iowa, Missouri, Ward was again footloose. The plan shaping in Ward's mind was to buy goods at low cost for cash. By eliminating intermediaries, with their markups and commissions, and cutting selling costs to the bone, he could offer goods to people, however remote, at appealing prices - for cash. Since its founding in 1872, the company has literally "grown up with America" and has had a major impact on the shopping habits of a nation of consumers. Montgomery Ward & Co. discontinued its catalog operations in 1
985 as part of its restructuring effort to change itself into a modern, competitive chain of value-driven specialty stores, a move which for a time saved the company. week.
The Tam O'Shanter or tam was offered with a least some of these suits. Tams could be quite large. The tams offered here seem to have been realtively small.
Broad brimmed sailor hats were modeled on the straw hats actually worn by British sailors in the 18th century and first appeared at that time. They did not become widely worn at this time because the fashion of distinctive clothes for childrn was just beginning to develop.
France annexed Algeria in the early 19th century as part of European 19th century rush to colonize Africa. Military units were formed from Algeians sympathetic to the French. Later units were formed with French soldiers, but with uniforms with Algeian--baggy pants styling. These units and the styling was called Zouave. It
became a popular style for French boys. After American units adopted the Zouave styling in the Civil War, it became popular with American boys. The two major elements were the small jacket and the bagguy pants.
The sailor suit is one of the most suceesful boys styles of all time. It was one of those rare coincidences of an outfit which both boys amd mothers liked. The style was conceived in England, but proved
popular in America and coincided with the emergence iof America on the world scene as it was building a powerful navy. Paradoxically, the sailor suit continued popular in the anti-war environment of the post-World War I era and mothers continued willingness to dress small boys in the sailor suit. As sailor styles became increasingly popular with girls, fewer boys wanted to wear them.
We notice only a small number of traditional sailor suits in the War's 1895 catalog. There are many more reefer suits. We are not sure if this accrately relects the relative popularity of the two styles. The traditional sailor suits were for some reason unknown to us that Ward's calls Zouave suits. A reader writes, "'Zouave' comes
from a mountain range in Algeria and was associated with a style of military uniforms worn in Algeria. All the 'Zouave' suits advertised in the 1895 Wards catalog seem to have certain military aspects--buttons, braid, etc. So this must be the explanation." HBC is not positive about this. We note that Zouave was also used for
the Fauntleroy outfits. We think it might be the small jackets. The traditional sailor suits are designated "Washable Sailor". The suits are depicted with headwear, but the headwear does not appear to have been included with the suit.
30946: Zouave Suits, fine navy blue flannel front trimmed with neat black braid and small black buttons, buttons to match on cuffs. 3 to 7 years each. $2.50.
30946: Zouave Suits, dark green corduroy, small button trimmings on front and cuffs, knees trimmed with silk ribbon, buckle and small button; an excellent suit, 3 to 7 years. Each $2.75.
We are not sure what "Zouave" is meant here is the Ward's ad copy. We thought with the Fauntleroy suits also in the Ward's 1895 reference was to the small jackets. But here these suits have middy blouses that that were not small jackets. Onr reader suggests it was a uniform style. This might explain the use here, but not with the Fauntleroy suits, so we are still confused as to the reference to Zouave suits.
The two last suits in the "Juvenile Suit" category are "sailor" suits, and all of them appear to have more elaborate trimming and design than the suits for older boys. The first suit in this group appears to have some elements of the Lord Fauntleroy style shown with large lace/ruffled collar blouses. The oldest age here is 7 years, which accounts for the heading, "Juvenile Suits." But the other sailor style, "Reefer Suits" in the previous category only go one year higher, i.e., 8 years, but are not called "juvenile."
Navigate the Boys' Historical Clothing catalog/magazine pages:
[Return to the Main Ward's 1895 sailor suits page]
[Return to the Main American mail order 1890s page]
[Main photo/publishing page]
[Store catalogs]
[Fashion magazines]
Navigate the Boys' Historical Clothing Web Site:
[Introduction]
[Activities]
[Biographies]
[Chronology]
[Cloth and textiles]
[Clothing styles]
[Countries]
[Topics]
[Bibliographies]
[Contributions]
[FAQs]
[Glossaries]
[Satellite sites]
[Tools]
[Boys' Clothing Home]
Navigate the Boys' Historical Clothing Web Site:
[Sailor hats]
[Unidentified cap]
[Sailor suits]
[Buster Brown suits]
[Eton suits]
[Rompers]
[Tunics]
[Smocks]
[Pinafores]
[Pinafores]
[Underwear]
[Stocking supporters]