Figure 1.--Here we have a Macy's Department Store catalog page for Balbriggan underwear. Macy's was a major New York Department store. We know nothing about Balbriggan. The page shows Balbriggan's complete line of children's underwear, primarily boys' styles. Source: New York Public Library.

Here we have a Macy's Department Store catalog page for Balbriggan underwear. Macy's was a major New York Department store. We know nothing about Balbriggan. The page shows Balbriggan's complete line of children's underwear, primarily boys' styles. Many underwear styles at the time were worn by both boys and girls. We are not positive when it was published, but believe it appeared in 1909.

Macy's

This ad comes from a Macy's catalogue in New York City. Macy's of course was a major New York Department store. There was even a major film, "Miracle on 39th St." set in the store. We have little information on the store's catalog.

Balbriggan

Balbriggan appears to be a major underwear manufacturer. Wevknow nothing about the company at this time.

Chronology

What is especially interesting here is the extensive variety of underwear styles offered. We are a liitle, however, uncertain about the date. The New York Public Library has noted the date on this page. It looks to us like it may be 1909, but could be 1904. Even so HBC has some doubt about the accuracy of this date. A HBC reader thinks that it might be a few years later. He writes, "The date is a bit problematic here, but I think it is at least as late as 1910 or perhaps a bit later. I base this on the various underwear styles illustrated--especially the over-the-knee short-leg fashion. Especially significant is the depiction in the ad of a style of boy's union suit (the waist union suit with reinforcement straps, waist buttons, and tabs for hose supporters) that, I believe, was not invented until the mid-1910s and didn't become really popular until the early 1920s."

Gender

All of the styles are suitable for boys although some of the styles are for "children" which means both boys and girls and three of the models are girls rather than boys.

Garments

The ad illustrates Balbriggan line of childrens undewear, with a brief description of the various styles. he text is very small print, but we have been able to decipher most of it. The ad copy reads, "Balbriggan, Bleached Cotton, Gauze and Lisle Boys' Knit Underwear. Use your Macy's Shopping List to jot down articles required for personal or family use. Send us your order each week or each month. Allow for postage or express or read our Free National Delivery Offer on page 3: Send Post Office or Express Money Order or New York Draft. We guarantee to refund your money at once if you are not satisfied."

Boys Underwear

There is no heading for boys underwear, although most of the item here are sesignated for boys.

7A 1030

Boy's ribbed cotton Shirts in ecru; high neck and short sleeves; also drawers to match, knee length. Sizes 26 to 24 inches. 29 c.

7A 1032

Boys' Balbriggan Shirts, high neck, long or short sleeves, drawers to match in knee or ankle length and made with double seats; sizes 26 to 34. 44 c.

7A 1033

Boys' bleached cotton Shirts; high neck, and short sleeves, drawers to match, knee length; sizes 26 to 34 inches. 44 c.

7A 1034

Children's [i.e., Boys' and Girls'] Nazareth Waist, made of Egyptian cotton for boys and girls; sizes 2 to 12 years. 19 c. [NB. The Nazareth waist was so-called because it was originally manufactured by the Nazareth Waist Co. of Nazareth, Pennsylvania. It was a sleeveless jacket-style garment that buttoned down the front, had reinforcement straps over the shoulders, waist buttons for trousers, skirts, panties, or bloomers, and was supplied with garter tabs (usually metal pinning tubes) for the attachment of hose supporters.]

7A 1033

Children's Gauze Knee Pants, open at sides, all sizes. 24 c.

7A 1036

Boys' Ecru Union Suits, high neck, short sleeve, buttons down front, open seat [i.e. one-button flap seat, not the 3-button drop seat]; sizes 5 to 15 years, i.e., 5 to 6 years, 59 c.; 8 to 10 years, 69 c.; 12 to 15 years, 79 c.

7A 1037

Children's ribbed union Union Suits, medium neck, knee length, made to button down the front and drop seat; all sizes. 49 c. [NB. This is an early version of the so-called waist union suit that became very popular in the 1920s and 1930s. It fulfills the double function of being both a waist and a union suit. It has reinforcement straps over the shoulders to carry the weight of additional clothing, taped-on waist buttons for trousers, skirts, bloomers, panties, etc., and supporter tapes at the sides for attaching garters for long stockings. This suit was worn by both boys and girls.]

7A 1038

Children's Gauze Vests, low neck and short sleeves; all sizes 24 c.

Childrens Underwear

These items are designated as Children's Underwear [i.e., for both boys and girls]. We are unsure why the items designated for children in the boys' section above were not included in this section.

7B 1030

Children's Gauze Vests, high neck and short sleeves, trimmed with silk binding; all sizes 24 c. [NB. Although technically wearable by a boy, these vests seem to be principally designed for girls.]

7B 1031

Children's Gauze Knee Pants, open at side, all sizes. 24 c.

7B 1032

Children's fine quality ribbed Lisle Thread Vests. High neck; long or short sleeve, also low neck, short sleeve and sleeveless, all sizes. 24 c.

7B 1033

Children's fine quality ribbed Lisle Thread Pants, knee length; all sizes. 24 c.

Not Illustrated

These items were available as part of the company's product line, but were not illustrated on the page.

7B 1034

Children's Nazareth Waist, made of best quality Egyptian cotton for boys and girls, sizes 2 to 12. 24 c.

7B 1035

Boys' Bleached Cotton Shirts, high neck and short sleeves, drawers to match, knee length. Sizes 24 to 34. 44 c.

Styling

It is interesting to note the variety of neck styles in this underwear. Models came with "high neck", "medium neck" and "low neck" styles. Some mothers wanted the high neck styles for greater warmth and coverage since boys and girls often wore shirts or dresses buttoned at the collar or at least covering the entire upper chest. Girls (and some boys) preferred the "low neck" underwear which wouldn't show under open shirts or low-cut dresses. "Medium neck" seems to have been a compromise between the two extremes. Boys today have no objection to tee shirts or other underwear showing underneath open-neck shirts (in fact showing one's underwear has become something of a fad) whereas boys and girls in the early decades of the 20th century considered that underwear (for reasons of decency) must never show under any circumstances. Another point: the preference in these underwear styles for knee-length legs (ankle length was available in some models but not shown in the ad) seems to have two different implications. First, the styles here may be spring and summer offerings--underwear for warmer weather. Most the illustrations also feature short sleeves. But, secondly, the knee-length preference also accommodates boys and girls who don't want to wear any more underwear than necessary under their long stockings because of the lumpy and less neat appearance. Also long stockings were difficult to put on when one was wearing ankle-length underwear.