Figure 1.--Here we see the 1915 "Ladies Home Journal" ad for Black Cat stockings. The ad emphasizing the sitability of long stockings for rugged outdoor wear when they were not really suitable at all. The ad asks why his mother buys Black Cat stockings. Click on the image to find out why. |
Here we note an ad for Black Cat Stockings from Ladies' Home Journal (September, 1915), p. 32. The image of the boy getting undressed for swimming and unfastening
his supporters to remove his black stockings is useful for its details of gettng dressed and undressed. We wonder about the marketing strategy. It also reveals something about stocking length in 1915. The ad appeared in September when mothers would be buying new school clothes for boys. Notice the interesting data on stocking color in the text transcribed below.
Black Cat was a trade name of the Chicago-Kenosha Hosiery Co. located in Kenosha, Wisconsin. We know very little about the company at this time. The ad here indicates that they had been in business over 30 years, meaning that the company was founded in the early 1880s. The company had 214 different styles of hosiery.
Here we note an ad for Black Cat Stockings from Ladies' Home Journal (September, 1915), p. 32. As the oldest still publishing, most respected women's service magazine in the country, The Ladies' Home Journal has always focused on issues of crucial importance to millions of women. Since its first issue in December 1883. This long history make The Ladies Home Journal and invaluable source of information on American fashion trends. Its covered an incredibly wide range of topics beyond just fashion, from the latest medical research and consumer news to parenting know-how, workplace survival, good skincare, nutrition facts and much, much more. It was The Ladies Home Journal who sucessfully merged the elements and produced the right formula, becoming the top ladies magazine in America. The Ladies' Home Journal both empowered women and applauded their growing power. We also notice patterns offered in the magazine.
Boys began wearing long stockings in the second half of the 19th Century. Long stockings were not worn earier as long trousers were often worn. Even smaller boys before breeching did not need long stockings as hey might wear pantalettes with shorter dresses. As kneepants became increasing common in the 1870s, boys began to wear long stockings. They were held up with a kind of suspanfer waist. Tights were not worn instead they were a pair of long stockings. When the new knicker style became more popular after the turn of the century, long stockings were stil worn as the knickers were worn above the knee. Boys by the 1920s increasingly buckled their knickers below the knee. This tendency and the increasing popularity of short pants caused boys to shift to kneesocks. After the mid-1920s long stockings were less commonly worn in America and Britain, although they did not disappear. They continued to be worn in worn more commonly in Germany, Poland, Switzerland and the Scandinavian countries--although tights were also worn in these countries. Many of the garments studied by HBC have evolved in style over time. Long over the kneestockings are a garment that has entirely disappeared.
The image of the boy getting undressed for swimming and unfastening his supporters to remove his black stockings is useful for its details of gettng dressed and undressed. My interpretation of the drawing was that the boy is getting undressed to go swimming and therefore unfastening his stocking supporters before he takes off his pants. I suppose the opposite is possible, however. But if he is dressing (as opposed to getting undressed), this would mean that he had put his trousers on before fastening the stockings to the clasps of the hose supporters. This is possible, but I think not very likely.
It also reveals something about stocking length in 1915. The ad appeared in September when mothers would be buying new school clothes for boys. This illustration shows the boy wearing fairly long stockings--stockings that come up at least to mid-thigh. Also note that the knee pants (at least when he is sitting down) seem to be correspondingly short. The stockings may have been drawn longer in the ad, of course, to show more of them to prospective customers, but I think this ad is evidence that boys' stockings in 1915 were mostly worn fairly long.
Notice the interesting data on stocking color in the text transcribed below. The colors specified in this advertisement are especially interesting. Mostly these stockings are black only, or black or white. The white stockings are for girls or for boys on dressy occasions. Red, tan, sky, and pink are also available--obviously for girls--but a dressy stocking for
Sunday wear can be had in Black, Tan, or White for boys. This seems to be one of the earliest appearances of tan long stockings on the market--presumably for either boys or girls but reserved for Sunday or dressy occasions.
We wonder about the company's marketing strategy. Here we are told to belief that long stockings were suitable for outdoor activities such as swiming and presumably camping. The impression suggested is rugged outdoors masculinity. Yet we know that Baden Powell chose knee socks rather than long stockings for Scouting. American Scouts also made that decession. Also by the 1910s we no longer see boys wearing long stockings at summer camp. So this ad seems to be in the tradition of boys' clothing ads, convincing mother that complaints that she may be hearing from junior or not true or can safely be ignored. We know, for example, that boys want clothes they can put on or take off with as little bother as possible. This simply was not the case for long stockings, no matter how much the illustration attempts to desguise it.
The company's ad copy reads, "Why His Mother Buys Him Black Cat Reinforced Hosiery. For three decades, mothers have bought Black Cat Hosiery for their children. Today, more mothers
than ever are demanding Black Cat for their boys and girls. Here are the reasons: Black Cat Children's Hosiery combines remarkable durability, elasticity, and appearance. Every vital wearing point is reinforced and strenthened. Special three-ply knees are made by knitting more threads of the yarn right into the knee when it is made. Sturdy extra threads of genuine Irish Linen keep little heels from rubbing out and the toes from poking through. Yet without hurting the youngster's tender feet. Seamless! Black Cat stretches so easily that children can pull their own stockings on without help. They fit tightly and snugly. This elasticity is a Black Cat feature. Black Cat is closely knit and evenly dyed. We use only Developed Dyes. This better dye lengthens the life of the yarn. And it assures sanitary stockings safe for children's feet--a big reason for insisting on Black Cat. See Your Dealer's Window During Black Cat School Week for This and Other Styles."
The company specifies four styles of stockings especially suited for back to school wear. Clearly black and white were the mosy common colors, but note the variety of colors that were available for children in 1915.
The ad copy read, "No. 15. Our famous "Leather Stocking." Not really leather, but wears like it. An extra heavy, very elastic ribbed hose with triple knee. Black 25 c."
The ad copy read, "No. 10. Black medium weight, lisle thread, ribbed hose. Also a triple knee stocking. Has high spliced heel and toe reinforced with genuine Irish Linen. 25 c."
The ad copy read, "No. 90. Light weight, fine gauge, lisle thread, ribbed hose with high spliced heel and pure Irish Linen reinforcements at heel and toe. Black or white.
The stocking for girls' everyday wear or boys' dress. 25 c."
The ad copy read, "No. 55. An extra fine gauge, light weight silk lisle, ribbed hose. Made from finest quality of Sea Island mercerized yarns. Extra heavy 4 ply silk lisle
heels and toes. Black, Red, Tan, Pink, Sky or White. A stocking for girls or for boys' Sunday wear. Lustrous and dressy. 25 c." Notice the different colors available. This is a subtlety that we entirely miss in the photographic record. The period photographs predispose us to think of the early 20th century as a black and white world. Ads like this substantiste the fact that different colors of long stockings were available. What we are not at all sure how common these different colored stockings were at the time and who wore what colors.
The company also writes, "Black Cat Catalog of 214 Styles for all the family--Free! Chicago-Kenosha Hosiery Co. Kenosha, Wisconsin. Made in U.S.A. For Over 30 Years."
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