Figure 1.-- Here we have an advertisement for boys' clothes from the "Ladies' Home Journal" for October 1928, p. 238 Perhaps it appeared in October because mothers were buying new fall clothes for their boys in school. Kaynee was a firm that manufactured coordinated waists (i.e., shirts) and trousers designed to be worn together, an "ensemble". |
Here we have an advertisement for boys' clothes from the Ladies' Home Journal for October 1928, p. 238 Perhaps it appeared in October because mothers were buying new fall clothes for their boys in school. Kaynee was a firm that manufactured coordinated waists (i.e., shirts) and trousers designed to be worn together, an "ensemble" (to use the terminology of the ad itself). Here we have a white dress waist with collar and tie that has buttons at the waist line so the
blue serge shorts can be buttoned on. In the photograph, the boy (who looks to be about 10 or 11 years old) wears patterned cuffed knee socks and dark leather shoes with the outfit. This style seems to have been influenced by British school dress, especially the short trousers and knee socks, although I'm not sure that British schoolboys would have worn waists with buttons and shorts that attached in this way. The Oliver Twist description is also a British allusion. It is not entirely sure what makes this an Oliver Twist suit, but I assume it is the button-on styling. Oliver Twist is often depicted in skeleton suits which employed button-on styling.
Here we have an advertisement for boys' clothes from the Ladies' Home Journal for October 1928, p. 238 Perhaps it appeared in October because mothers were buying new fall clothes for their boys in school. As the oldest still publishing, most respected women's service magazine in the country, The Ladies' Home Journal has always focused on issues of crucial importance to millions of women. Since its first issue in December 1883. This long history make The Ladies Home Journal and invaluable source of information on American fashion trends. Its covered an incredibly wide range of topics beyond just fashion, from the latest medical research and consumer news to parenting know-how, workplace survival, good skincare, nutrition facts and much, much more. It was The Ladies Home Journal who sucessfully merged the elements and produced the right formula, becoming the top ladies magazine in America. The Ladies' Home Journal both empowered women and applauded their growing power.
Kaynee was a firm that manufactured coordinated waists (i.e., shirts) and trousers designed to be worn together, an "ensemble" (to use the terminology of the ad itself).
We have little historical information on the Kaynee Company at this time. The ad here places the company in Cleveland Ohio. It shows that the company was operating in 1928. We do not know when the company was founded. We know it is still operating goday. The company is an important manufacturr of school uniforms.
The Oliver Twist description is a British allusion. It is not entirely sure what makes this an Oliver Twist suit, but I assume it is the button-on styling. Oliver Twist is often depicted wearing skeleton suits which employed button-on styling. We have noted this term being used in many period advertisements. The only common characteristic we can see is the button-on styling.
Button-on shorts were popular in both Europe and America, however, because they were practical. The buttons kept the trousers in place without the use of suspenders (which were also sometimes worn, especially in Europe). Belts, which most British schoolboys wore in the 1920s, sometimes made the waists of the shorts bunch up, whereas the button-on arrangement kept the line between waist and shorts smooth as suspenders would also do. Also active boys don't like their clothes to be uncomfortably tight, and if the boys had slender waists and hips, keeping trousers from sagging was a problem. Button-on outfits were also done as a stylish rather than practical approach.
Notice that the buttons in the Kaynee outfit don't show, being concealed underneath the waistband of the trousers. The photograph is rather dark, but there may actually be a matching blue serge belt at the waist for mere appearance's sake rather than for functionality. We have noted many shorts sets done with the self belt like this.
This Kaynee "ensemble" is obviously a very dress-up costume for boys. I suspect
that it appealed to rather upper-class or affluent mothers. Many boys
from less well-off families would probably have worn knickers with
belts, especially at the age of eleven or twelve. Ironically, the ad
refers to the suit as an "Oliver Twist" waist and trousers--ironic
because Oliver Twist was a poor orphan boy from a Dickens novel who
dressed in clothes approaching rags. We tend to think of shirts with
ties worn with short pants as quite formal nowadays, but in the 1920s
and earlier, many boys dressed much more formally for school than they
do nowadays. In the mid-1930s, for instance, I often wore shirts with
ties to school--but usually with shorter shorts and long stockings
rather than knee socks.
Here we have a white dress waist with collar and tie that has buttons at the waist line so the
blue serge shorts can be buttoned on. Note the use of the term "waist". This can have several meanings. Here it is used to describe a button-on blouse. In the advertisement photograph, the boy (who looks to be about 10 years old) wears patterned cuffed knee socks and dark leather shoes with the outfit. This style seems to have been influenced by British school dress, especially the short trousers and knee socks, although I'm not sure that British schoolboys would have worn waists with buttons and shorts that attached in this way.
The ad copy read, "Let Them Grow Up in Kaynee" An "ensemble" indeed--for boys. White broadcloth Oliver Twist waist and blue serge trousers. One buttoned onto the other. Both exemplifying a new idea in style and convenience. Originated by Kaynee--created with the inimitable Kaynee finesse. Oliver Twist waists in various colors. Trousers in prevailing dark shades--in Flannel, Jersey, Tweed and Serge. Six waists and two pairs of trousers give the well dressed boy a most flexible wardrobe! At all good dealers' Write for "Boy Types and How to Dress Them" The Kaynee
Company, Dept. J-10, Cleveland, Ohio. Approved by the Boys. Kaynee Blouses, Shirts, Suits." A French reader writes, "The French term 'ensemble' doesn't meant suit but outfit wich is a composition of a top and above garment. The French word 'ensemble' is still very commonly used nowaday."
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