Figure 1.-- We notice a range of headwear in 1940. Flat caps were going out of style and being relaced with caps that had more rounded crowns. We note what were called "helmets" during the witer. We also see syocking caps and ear muffs as well as goggles. There is a decided aviation influence here. The Wards Fall-Winter 1940-41 catalog headwear page provides details. The page is particularly useful because the ad copy tells us a great deal about the different items. |
We notice a range of headwear in 1940. Flat caps were going out of style and being relaced with caps that had more rounded crowns. We note what were called "helmets" during the witer. We also see syocking caps and ear muffs as well as goggles. There is a decided aviation influence here. The Wards Fall-Winter 1940-41 catalog headwear page provides details. The page is particularly useful because the ad copy tells us a great deal about the different items.
Although the word "consumerism" has a modern ring, it was personal concern for an early consumer movement, the "National Grange of the Patrons of Husbandry," That inspired a young traveling salesman named Aaron Montgomery Ward to start the world's first general merchandise mail-order company in 1872. Aaron Montgomery Ward was born on February 17, 1844, in Chatham, New Jersey, to a family whose forebears had served as officers in the French and Indian Wars as well as in the American Revolution. Looking for something more compatible, Monty left home and followed the river to Lake Michigan and the town of St. Joseph, county seat and market for outlying fruit orchards. Chicago was the center of the wholesale dry goods trade and in the 1860s Ward joined the leading dry goods house, Field Palmer & Leiter. As a retailer, Potter Palmer had previously built a reputation for fair dealing. Ward absorbed these principles while working as a clerk for $5. The Chicago City Directories for 1868 through 1870 listed Ward as a salesman for Wills, Greg & Co. and later for Stetthauers & Wineman, both dry goods houses. In 1870, after canvassing territory in Illinois, Iowa, Missouri, Ward was again footloose. The plan shaping in Ward's mind was to buy goods at low cost for cash. By eliminating intermediaries, with their markups and commissions, and cutting selling costs to the bone, he could offer goods to people, however remote, at appealing prices - for cash. Since its founding in 1872, the company has literally "grown up with America" and has had a major impact on the shopping habits of a nation of consumers. Montgomery Ward & Co. discontinued its catalog operations in 1985 as part of its restructuring effort to change itself into a modern, competitive chain of value-driven specialty stores, a move which for a time saved the company. week.
The page here appeard in the Montgomery Ward Fall-Winter 1940-41 catalog, p. 284. Many of the sales would have been for back to school. The caps here would have been worn to school. The hats, however, would have been primaily for dress occassions.
We notice a range of headwear in 1940. Flat caps were going out of style and being relaced with caps that had more rounded crowns. We note what were called "helmets" during the witer. We also see stocking caps and ear muffs as well as goggles. There is a decided aviation influence here. The Wards Fall-Winter 1940-41 catalog headwear page provides details. The page is particularly useful because the ad copy tells us a great deal about the different items. One notable absence is the British style school cap. We are not sure why this style is not here. We have noted this style being worn. We suspect that it was more of a style for more affluent families and Sear was focussed more on middle-class or working class customers. The page is headed with, "But It Now--Pay Later on Time. Only $2 Monthly Buys a $17.50 Order. See Inside Back Cover." Wards also advises, "Be Sure to Order Boy's Proper Size! See "How to Measure" Directions Below."
One interesting aspect is the selection of what are called "helmets" and goggles. We assume that this a reflection of the populariity od aviation and aviators. Wards describes them as "Practical, Cold-proof Helmets." We do note them being worn in the photographic record. We areunsure, however, just how popular they were. One note here. Unless it was really cold, boys often did not like wearing their ear flaps. It was seen by some older boys as does not hip or cool. This was affected somewhat by the themometer. Thus attitudes here probably varies between Minnesota and Mississipi. We are guessing that these helmet-type caps probably were most popular in the northern states. Note that the illustrations show the flps down, but these caps could be worn with flaps up as well. We are also guessing tht these caps would have been more popular with younger boys and were pribably mostly seen in elementary (primary) school. Wards offered several different styles.
The Wards ad copy read, "Laskin Lamb Fur Ear-Muffs 33 cents. Harmonizing Bright Plaid Lining. Boys, girls, men and women wear these ear-muffs for warm protection. Adjustable; fit every head. Non-rust metal band. Sturdy plaid Cotton lining. 35 B 9460--Orange and Black. 35 B 9461--Red and Blue. 35 B 9462--Red. 35 B 9463--Blue. 35 B 9464--Green. 35 B 9465--Brown."
Flat caps were a very popular cap in the 1930s, but a cap rapidly going out of style in 1940. We do not seem them being wdely worn in the 1940s. Wards still offered this style in 1940. Wards does not use the term "flat" cap, infact they provide no real description for these capa at all. The third style is called a "dress" cap. That is not, however, a useful description because many styles have been used for dress caps and the styles have changed over time. In addition the photogrphic record sows these caps being worn for other than dress occassions. Wards offered four different styles of these caps.
I am not entirely sure what to call these hats and Wards offers no real clues, other than a reference to the material--felts. I think that this would we called a fedora, but without the center crease normally associated with fedoras. Perhaps a HBC reader will have more knowledge on this. Instead of the center crease, the hats here have a "C" crown (a rounded indentation for the head at the top of the crown). This hat as an adult look, but we do notice boys in the 1940s and 50s wearing them. It was a dress style, normally worn with a suit. A boy would not have worn this, for example, to go to school. We notice three different styles.
Wards refers to these cold-weather brimmed-caps as "Norse Sttyle". I am not real sure that they were actually a popular style in Norway. Here we mean bith the style and the plaid pattern. Perhaps our Norwegian readers will know more. I also do not think that people actually referred to these caps as Norse or Norse-style caps. Actually I'm not sure if they actually had a popular name. Some people might have called them "hynting caps". The caps actually have the look of plaid baseball caps with ear flaps. Wards offered four different styles.
The Wards ad copy read, "Knit Hockey Cap. Double Walled for Warmth 54 cents. 100% Virgin Wool Worsted yarn for warmth. Bright colors. Heavy Shaker knit. Carefully hand finished. One size fits all heads. Ship. wt. 4 oz. 35 B 9430--Black and Orange. 35 B 9431--Navy Blue and White. 35 B 9432--Solid Navy Blue. 35 B 9433--Solid Maroon. 35 B 9434--Navy blue and Red. 54 cents."
I'm not sure who the famous ace was or even what sport was being referred to here. Was this a skating style? A reader writes, "I think "famous ace" refers to a flyer or pilot. The knitted
style helmet is a kind of knitted imitation of the leather-style helmets that flying "aces" wore. Boys were very interested in the pilots or "aces" of war planes (especially in World War I) although I
think there were "aces" (fighter pilots) in World War I also. Boys in winter weather liked woolen caps (like the hockey cap) to keep them warm. The alternative to a hockey cap might be a "famous ace" cap--serving the same purpose as a hockey cap to keep the ears warm but shaped somewhat like the leather helmet of a World War I flying ace. Didn't the famous "Red Baron" of World War I wear a flying helmet shaped somewhat like this wool knitted cap? Just guessing really." I don't think this is what Wards was referring to because before America entered the War there was not much talk about fighter aces. (There was a great deal of interest during and right after World War I, but in 940 most Americans were more interested in staying out of the War. The Wards ad copy read, "Famous Ace Cap 37 cents. 100% Pure Wool Worsted. Bias knit to shape, won't fall off. Wear with sides down in the cold weather, sides up in mild weather. One size fits all heads. Ship. wt 4 oz. 35 B 9410--Black and Orange. 35 B 9411--Navy blue and White. 35 B 9412--Solid Navy Blue. 35 B 9413--Solid Maroon. 35 B 9414--Navy and Red. Each, 37 cents."
The Wards ad copy read, "10-Gallon Western $1.49. Carlsbad style with wide 3 1/2-inch brim, high felt pinched crown. Sturdy Wool Felt, unlined. Good leather sweatband. Sizes: 6 3/8, 6
1/2, 6 5/8, 6 3/4, 6 7/8, 7, 7 1/8. State size. Ship. wt. 1 lb, 12 oz. 535 B 8600--Tan with brown hatband. 535 B 8601--Black with cream-white hatband. $1.49."
Wards explained, "Measuring scale at right coordinating circumference of head in inches with hat sizes: 20 inches (6 3/8); 20 1/2 inches (6 1/2); 20 3/4 (6 5/8); 21 1/4 (6 3/4); 21 5/8 (6 7/8); 22 (7); 22 1/8 (7 1/8); 22 1/4 (7 1/4).
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