Fabrics Used in Boys' Clothing: Camelhair


Figure 1.--

Camelhair comes from the two humped Bactrian Camel in central Asia.During the winter the camel grows a long thick coat which by spring has formed into clumps of wool that hang from the camels body. By early summer these clumps have fallen to the ground and are collected by caravans and carefully graded. The longer, coarser hairs are used for weaving and only the fine underhair is selected for fine carments like sweaters.

Fabric

Camelhair comes from the two humped Bactrian Camel in central Asia.During the winter the camel grows a long thick coat which by spring has formed into clumps of wool that hang from the camels body. By early summer these clumps have fallen to the ground and are collected by caravans and carefully graded. The longer, coarser hairs are used for weaving and only the fine underhair is selected for fine carments like sweaters. The genus Camelus L. belongs to the family Camel Gray and it includes two subspecies: the Dromedary or Arabian Camel with one hump, particulary spread in Africa, Arabia and in the Near East, and the subspecies with two humps, the Camel or Camelus bactrianus of East and Central Asia, an animal that can also live in very cold climates, where it is used by the Tartars, the Mongols and the Chinese. In winter the suspecies bactrianus has a very long and thick fur and the coat below, called flock or duvet, is similar to the coat of the cashmere goat. It is very soft, very thin and it has remarkable thermic properties. On average its diameter is 20 micron and the best material is in China. The most common colour is red-brown but the white fur, the albino, which was even described by Marco Polo, is the most valuable one and it is very rare.

The majority of the world's supply of camel hair comes from Bactrian camels in Mongolia and north western China. Other camelhair is produced in North Africa but is of a much coarser quality. In keeping with many characteristics of other speciality fibres the fine down hair of this animal has incredible dual thermal properties which makes is especially suitable for bedding and coats. The the hair is first graded and then scoured /washed. Carding, de-hairing and topmaking are carried out on site. The finished de-haired camel film (carded web) is mostly sold to the woollen and bedding industries. The tops are mainly produced for the high-class hosiery trade. Camelhair comes in a variety of fineness from 17.0 microns to the very coarse guard hair (around 50 microns).

Color

Camel hair is usually described as tan, beige, or fawn. The soft camel’s wool is described by one manufacturer as a pleasant pale yellowish buff color, varying from cream to a deep biscuit color. Most camelhair garments are produced in that color, certinly the classic garments worn by children. Some manufactures today do dye camel hair, but usually for adult garments. While camel hair is usually used in its natural fawn colour, it can be chemically treated to remove the natural pigment to achieve a white/ecru shade.

Characteristics

The finest of camel wool can match the softness of the finest cashmere.

Garments

The longer, coarser hairs are used for weaving and only the fine underhair is selected for fine carments like sweaters. Camelhair overcoats are perhaps the best known garment, but blazers and sweaters are also made in camelhair.

Overcoats

American boys wore their Eton suits during the winter with various types of coats. The classic winter outfit was a tan cammel hair coat with military styling. One coat had epeulets and patch pockets. The coats were made in both single and double breasted styling. This contrasts with the suit jackets for younger boys which were almost always single breasdted. The coat, unlike the Eaton jacket, has lapels with a "V" opening showing the boy's collar and tie. The peaked cap might match the boy's tan coat rather than the material of his Eton suit. The coats were not long, but did extend below the length of the boy's shorts. As these coats were winter wear, they were normally worn with kneesocks.

Blazers


Sweaters


Socks


Imitation

HBC has noted wool sweaters made in camelhair "color".






Christopher Wagner





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Created: March 16, 2001
Last updated: March 16, 2001