United States Fashion Publications and Children's Fashions: The Delineator (1872-19??)


Figure 1.--The "Dileneator had very useful sections on children's fashions, offereing patterns for both boys and girls. Here we see a boy standing in front of a store with a 1893 copy of "The Dilenator" posted on the window. We think it was a clothing store which sold fabric. Mothers could consult "The Dileantor" for garments they wished to make. Not all women subscribed to the magazine, but they could have access to the patterns through stores. This shop was located we think in New York City.

The Delineator was founded and closely associated with Butterick Company--one of the most well known companies making home sewing patterns. According to Metropolitan Monthly [February 1874], the Butterick company started printing patterns in 1865, issuing a Metropolitan Monthly as a means of illustrating and advertising their patterns. In 1872 they started publishing their Delineator to provide more scope in a larger publication for there patterns with many more pictures in all categories and sizes. It included other information about fashion and home. The Delineator achieved immediate popularity at a cost of 15 cents per issue or a years subscription offered at $1.50 that included a choice of bonus patterns to a value of $1.00. Prices of individual patterns ranged from 20 cents to 40 cents with a deluxe version sometimes reaching $1.50. By 1883, the circulation was 155,000 copies per month, and 10 years later in 1893 it had reached the staggering number of 500,000. Circulation was worldwide, including 85 countries in such exotic and out of the way places as Ceylon, Chile, Hong Kong, Congo, Curacao, Fiji Islands, Siam, etc. In 1905 the Delineator was still selling for 15 centsd per copy, the same as 1872. According to the same article Butterick was producing about 15,000 patterns a day, and sending them out to all the places mentioned.' The Delineator was graphically reserved, and used stylized representations of contemporary women. It was run by the inventors of the pattern and initiated the fusion of the sewing pattern and magazines. The Delineator, as with most fashion magazines, primarily focused on women's fashions. There was for the time, however, unprecented coverage of children's fashions--including boys' clothes. The magazine is the single most important source of information on late 19th and early 20th Century children's fashions.

Children's Fashiojs

The Dileneator was a general fashion magazine with a heavy emphasis on women's fashions. It did not sell clothing, but rather patterns that mothers could use to make fashionable clothing. It did, however, have a very useful sections on children's fashions, both boys and girls. There were sections specifically for boys and girls, but also children's fashions that could be worn by both younger boys and girls. In many issues the magazine basically showed a series of garments and then discussed the styles in detail. The magzine is thus one of the best sources of informatioin on 19th century children's fashions.

Chronology

The Delineator first appeared in 1872. I am not sure about its periodicity, I believe that it changed over time. I am not positive precisely to what date it was published. I note issues as late as 1925. The Dileneator is a particularly important publication because it was a dated periodical. Thus the fashion illustrations and articles provide a wonderful assessment over time about fabrics, colors, and trimmings. Many of the issues had vlarge sections on children fashions. Thus it is a very valuable source of information on chronological trends. The 19th century issues are particularly important.

Butterick Patterns

The Delineator was founded and closely associated with Butterick Company--one of the most well known companies making home sewing patterns. According to Metropolitan Monthly [February 1874], the Butterick company started printing patterns in 1865, issuing a Metropolitan Monthly as a means of illustrating and advertising their patterns. In 1872 they started publishing their Delineator to provide more scope in a larger publication for there patterns with many more pictures in all categories and sizes. It was run by the inventors of the pattern and initiated the fusion of the sewing pattern and magazines.

Focus

The Delineator, as with most fashion magazines, primarily focused on women's fashions. There was for the time, however, unprecented coverage of children's fashions--including boys' clothes. The magazine is thus the single most important source of information on late 19th and early 20th Century children's fashions.

Contents

The magazine was more than just a collection of patterns. It dealt with a wide range of tpics and issues about fashion and home. It had many illustrations of garments for women, young ladies, children, and some for men. The magaxine began as just a catalog of patterns. Over time the natre of the magazine changed. Articles appeared about fashion, trimming, millinery, decorating, health, and many other topics. It became a kind of woman's domestic magazine. Readership expanded beyound all expectations. The Delineator proved extremely profitable for Butterick as well as considerable prestige. Many by the turn-of-the-20th century many considered The Delineator to be America's finest women's service and fashion magazine. Butterick in The Delineator not only offered fashion and domestiuc news. By the turn of the 20th century, the publication reporting on women's activities and achievements in "universities and professions, in municipal affairs, and in reforms of national scope". Butterick reports that, "With a series of outstanding editors, department heads with expertise in their field, and distinguished contributors of fiction and nonfiction, The Delineator was a high quality magazine for intelligent, progressive women".

Importance

As The Delineator was primarily devoted to patterns there is a great deal of information, including clear directions on how a garment was cobstructed. This there are details in the magazine that go beyond those foumd in many fashion magazine. One reader writes, "I like these magazines better than any other publication. They have 10 times the amount of information than Godey's, as there is no literature, just "how" and "what". A fabulous resource!".

Popularity

The Delineator achieved immediate popularity at a cost of 15 cents per issue or a years subscription offered at $1.50 that included a choice of bonus patterns to a value of $1.00. Prices of individual patterns ranged from 20 cents to 40 cents with a deluxe version sometimes reaching $1.50. The circulation by 1883 was 155,000 copies per month, and 10 years later in 1893 it had reached the staggering number of 500,000. Circulation was worldwide, including 85 countries in such exotic and out of the way places as Ceylon, Chile, Hong Kong, Congo, Curacao, Fiji Islands, Siam, etc. In 1905 the Delineator was still selling for 15 centsd per copy, the same as 1872. According to the same article Butterick was producing about 15,000 patterns a day, and sending them out to all the places mentioned.'

Digital Changeling Home

Thus website is a wonderful resource on Delineator and other and other fashion magazine pages from the late 19th and early 20th centuries. There are some especially interesting Delineator pages.

Illustrations

The Delineator was graphically reserved, and used stylized representations of contemporary women and children.

Actual Garments

1890: Sailor suit


Sources

Butterick Company, "Butterick: Our History".






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Created: October 29, 2002
Last updated: 8:16 PM 1/13/2008