Figure 1.--This cabinet card portrait shows what looks like the older children in a town elementary (primary) schools. While the portrait is not dated, the clothes andthe mount style show that it was taken in the 1900s, probably about 1905. The boys wear knee pants suits. one boy has an Eton collar. The girls wear rather long dresses and no hair bows. Everyone that we can tell has black long stockings, both boys and girls.

We also see few children wearing uniforms at the turn of the 20th century. This continued through much of the mid-20th century. There were some exceptions. The parochial schools has simple uniforms. Many private schools had uniforms. The vast majority of American children, however, went to schools with out any uniforms. The clothes worn to school were thus a reflection of popular styles of the day. There were dress codes in many schools. As a result, some popular styles were not worn to school. Few high schools, for example, let children wear jeans to high school in the 1960s. Uniform were generally consdered elitist and discouraging individuality. These ideas began to change in the 1980s as some elementary schools began experimenting with voluntary uniforms. These uniforms were especially prominent at inner-city schools. It must be remembered in building this chronology that there was not one single American experience and that regional trends were often quite significant.

The 1900s

The idea of wearing school uniforms never became accepted in America, at least in the public schools. In this regard, it was not unlike England. English state primary schools did not require uniforms. Most private schools, both public schools and prep schools did require uniforms. In this regard, many of the exclusive private schools in America following the British system, also adopted school uniforms, but this was a relatively small number of exclusive schools. Parochial schools did not require uniforms. Younger boys wore quite a variety of outfit, even fancy suits like Little Lord Fauntleroy suits. Boys also wear sailor suits, but mostly city boys. Most boys in cities came to school in suits. In rural ares schoolwear was more varied. A lot of boys wore blouses and knee pants. Almost all American bys wore kneepants to school, although knickers were becoming popular by the end of the decade. Bib-overalls were commonly worn by workers and we think farmers. We do not see boys in rural areas wearing them to school until theend of the decade and almost etirely in rural areas. We do not know why this development ocurred so suddenly. Boys in the cities mostly wore high-top shoes. In rural areas many boys in warm weaher still came to school barefoot. America made a major demographic shift in the 1900s. Slightly over half of the American population lived in urban areas. The rural population, however, was still very substantial.

Figure 2.--This family snapshot shows three children, we assume siblings, standing in front of the family home before taking off the school. They are grade school children about 5-10 years of age. (The younger boy may not be in school yet or perhaps in Kindergarten.) The boys werar flat caps, sweters, and knickers. The girl wears what looks like a long sweater with a blouse and skirt. Notice the ties. All the children wear long stockings. The snapshot is undated, but looks like the 1910s to us.

The 1910s

A major and rather sudden change in boys schoolwear occurred about 1908-10. We do not know why such a sudden change occurred. American boys who for several decades had been wearing straight-leg knee pants suddenly shifted to knickers. We begin to see this in 1908 and even more so 1909, and it was largely an established standard by 1910. This can clearly be seen in the photogrphic record. Knee pants were standard boys wear in the 1900s, but knickers were standard in the 10s. Most boys thus wore knickers to school in the 1910s. A few younger boys wore knee oants, but most boys wore knickers. Suits were still commonly worn to school, at least in urban areas. Norfolk knickers suits worn with flat caps were very popular--virtually icomic. As this was occurring we also begin to see fewer older teenagers wearing shortened-length pants. We see some older boys wearing knee pants in the 1900. With the sitch to knickes, we see fewer older teens. This varied from country to country. There was another major change at the same time that boys were switchig from knee pants to knickers. Many boys in rural areas began wearing bib-front overalls. We also see this very clearly in the photographic record. These overalls were not new. Workers and rarmers had begun wearing them in the mid-19th century. For some reason, it is only in the 1910s that for some unknown reason, boys in rural areas began wearing them to school. This was not just a few boys, but we see large nimbers of boys in rural schools suddenly wearing them. We have no idea why overalls appeared so suddehntly in rural schools. It was also common in rural areas to come to school barefoot. This was not unknown in city schools, bit was much more common in small tiwn and rural schools.

Figure 3.--This school portait is undated, but looks like the early-1920s to us. Quite a klarge group, some 50mkids, butbwev only bsee one teacher. We see several sailor suits. Miost of the boys wear white shirts or blousesvwith some kind of neckwear. The girlks wear dresses. They look to be 2nbd gradewrs, about 7-8 years old.

The 1920s

Most American children walked to school in the 1920s. As cars became more common, the patrol boys became a standard institution at most schools to help the younger children get safely to school. Children at city schools either briought their lunches or went home for lunch. Not many schools had cafeterias. Many elementary schools adopted a special day for Scouts to wear their uniforms. Boys commonly dressed in suits for school in the 1910s. We still see that after World War I in the 1920s, but not as commonly. Especially by the end of the decade we see many boys wearing more casual clothes for school. The youngest primary (elementary) boys might wear shorts pants for school, but knickers were much more common, especially by about the 3rd grade. Knickers replaced kneepants in the 1910s and were quite common even in secondary school. Knickers continued to be standard schoolwear for boys in the 1920s, although we no longer see older highschool boys wearing them. Sweaters and corduroy knickers were a popular combination. The 1920s were the first decade in which sweaters became a major school item. Knickers were worn mostly with long stockings until the end if the decade when we begin to see brightly patterned knee socks. Boys almost never wore knickers with ankle socks. We also see a shift from high-top to low-cut shoes over the decade, Sneakers were becoming popular durung the 20s, but were not commonly worn to school. We continue to see differences between city and rural schools. Girls almost always wore dresses or blouses abd skirts to school. Highschool girls often middy blouses and bloomers for gym in the 1910s. We still see that in the early-20s, but we begin to see girls at some schools wearing short pants for gym. We also see romper suits. We continue to see quite a number of 8th grade graduations. Many children still did not go on to high school after the 8th grade in the 1920s, although it was becoming more common. Thus 8th grade graduations were still an important event.

Figure 4.--Not much doubt about thgis one. It is a 2nd grade class in Costa Mesa, California in 1930. The Depression had just begun. Notice the Japanese students. Several boys wear overalls. Only one boy wears a suit jacket. We see knickers and long pants. The girls wear dresses. Some of the children are bsrefoot. Orange county at gthe time was chnging from a rural area into the Los Angeles mega-city of today..

The 1930s

Major changes were observable in American schoolwear during the 1930s. The most observable difference was that it was becomning much less common for primary-level boys to wear suits to school, although there were some schools where suits were expected. Suits were worn at private schools or some primary schools in better neighborhoods. They were also commonly worn secondary schools, especially by the older boys. Boys in primary school dressed in short pants or knickers, often with sweaters. Here there were regional and social class diiferences. Boys in the South or from well-to-do families we more likely to wear shorts. There were also seasonal differences. One of the most popular style in the 1930s was corduroy knickers. Knickers were the dominant pahnts at the begining of the decade, but steadily declined in popularity as the decade progressed. One observable change was that long stockings declined in popularity. Most boys wearing knickers in the 1930s wore them with knee soks, often with loud patterns. Long pants gradually became more common during the 30s, even for younger boys. So we see many primary boys wearing long pants by the end of the decade. Girls continud to wear dresses or skirts with blouses. While we see fewer suits, children were expected to dress properly for school. Neither boys or girls wore jeans which were beginning to become popular as playwear, especially with boys as a result of movie westerns. Girlswear was affected by Shirley Temple who grew up during the decade. America endured the Depression throughout the 1930s. Many children had only three sets of clothing. One for school, another for play, and an outfit for special occasions. The play outfit was commonly the old school outfit. Money was tight and many parents ewre hard-pressed to buy new clothes. Hand-me-downs were commonly woorn. The Depression did affect schools in another way. More teenagers attended high school because jobs were so hard to find. Thee continued to be substantial diffeences between school wear in the city and rural areas. Many boys in rural areas ad even some girls wore overalls to school. They also often cane to sciol brefoot in warmr weather. This was most common in the South. Poorer children might wear clothes made from feed sacks or cut-down adult clothing. Flat capswere still wirn in the early-30s, but quickly decline in populrity. For cold weather children wore wool coats and felt caps with earflags and chinstraps--especially in the North. Boys were increasingly wearing sneakers for play. We rarely see boyswearing sandals to school like the ones worn in Europe. They wer, however, popular for girls. Children did not commonly wear sneakers to school, although we see some poor children wearing them.

The 1940s

Some boys still wore knickers to school at the beginning of the 1940s, but they very rapidly going out of styles We see boys wearung them with ankle socks rather than knee socks. Mostly we see dark banded ankle socks. After the onset of the War (December 1941) the became increasingly rare, but did not entirely disappear. We still see younger boys wearing short pants. This varied regionally. Shorts were most commion in southerrn states with warmer climate. There were also social class differences. Shorts were more common with more affluent families. We begin to see the differential between city and rural schools disappearing. The 1940s include the World War II years (1941-45). In many countrues clothes and fashions were affected by the Wa, not so much in America where rationing was minimal. The War may have played a role in the diappearnce of knickers. And rubber was no longer vailable for sneakers. After World War II we largely see city and rural kids dressing alike. Many rural parents go jobs in the citiies. School districts round the ciuntry were closing small rural schools and bussing rural children into consolidated schools located in towns. We no longer see many boys wearing overalls ion the 40s. Short pants gradually became less common even for younger boys. I began school in Washingtin, D.C. (1949) and recall wearing jeans to school. I don't recall boys wearing shorts. We all aore leather shoes to school. We had Keds to wear for play, but for sime reason not to chool. The girls wore a range of shoes, exforss like the biys, but also strp shoes and sandals boys did not wear sandals, especilly to school. I recall my brother when he entered high school aear later wasn't allowed to wear jeans. They were allowed in primary (elementary) schools, but not many secondary schools. All the boys in my elementary (primary) school wore long pants long pants. Not everyone wore jeans, but it was very common. There were kens with flannel lining for fall and winter wear. The girls all wore dresses, no long or short pants. While I don't recall seeing short pants at my school, the photograph record shows that at many schools some younger boys did wear shorts. This varied from school to school, primrily on a chronological and regionl basis. For some reason we do not fully understand, we see many more boys wearing shorts in the early 1940s, but fewer in the later-40s. And we see more boys wearing shorts in the South as wall as Califirnia. This was both play and casual shorts as well as short pants suits, very few boys by the time were wearing suits to school.

The 1950s

We note substantial differences around the country as to what bous wore to school. School clothing was realtively informal in most American schools. Many elementary school boys wore jeans to school. I remember eraring flannel shirts and flannel-lined jeans during the winter. I alwaus wore collared shirts, although some boys wore "t"-shirs when the weather warmed up. We never wore ties. Jeans were, however, not permitted in secondary schools. All boys wore collared shirts. Ties were rare, but some boys buttoned their collar buttons. A reader tells us, "It seems that in the New York area, it was common for schools to have strict dress codes until the late 1960's, even in the grammar schools. My father went to grade school in Jersey city and my mother in New York City and then Jersey City. At their schools the boys had to wear slacks, shoes, and ties, and the girls skirts and shoes. (Though I think it was the same for girls in most areas, but the boys differed.) I saw a picture from the New Jersey grade school I attended; I believe 1956, though I can't remeber the exact date, but around there. In the picture all but one of the boys wore ties and half wore jackets. I read in a book that the same rules were in effect in my town at that time. Likely the boys were just wearing jackets for the school picture. My father told me that in the late 60s they dropped the tie requirement and allowed the girls to wear dress slacks, and in the 70s the rules dwindled to almost nothing, as they did in most schools in the country." Another reader reports, "I attended grade school in Washington state in the mid 50's to early 60's. Girls had to wear dresses (no pants) and boys had to wear long pants (no jeans) and button up shirts (no T-Shirts). During the last week of school everyone was allowed to wear shorts if they wanted to, but they had to be Bermuda length. I remember a kid getting into trouble for wearing shorts that were boxer length."

The 1960s

After World War II, especially in the 1960s, many British prinary schools began adopting school uniforms. There was no such development in America. Children in Catholic parochial schools did wear simple uniforms, but I am not sure just when this tradition began. A reader reports, "I moved to California in the early 60's and attended both Jr. High and High School there during the mid to late 60's. Boys were NEVER allowed to wear shorts and girls were NEVER allowed to wear pants. We could wear jeans and T-shirts though, as opposed to my Elementary school in Washington. Again in High School, no shorts for boys or pants for girls. My Senior year the faculty had and especially bad time with enforcing the dress length for girls (Mini Skirt era). A questionnaire was sent home to the parents re the dress code and the parents supported it."

The 1970s

Many boys began wearing short pants to school in the warmer weather. Cut-offs were especially popular. A reader reports, "The dress code at our school was dropped in 1970. Go figure. I personally don't remember seeing shorts worn to school by boys until the mid to late 70's when OP shorts became popular. I believe girls were allowed to wear pants earlier than that. Now you see more bare legs on boys that girls and when I was in school age it was dramatically the opposite (not that I minded it). Boys wore long pants, girls dresses. Even for casual wear, girls who wore longs and boys who wear shorts really stood out. Now you will see a brother and sister and the brother is wearing short and the girl long pants. Junior High graduation in the 70s and 80s, at least in my area, became a contest to see who could dress the flashiest. Girls were wearing expensive evening gowns and boys would show up in tuxedos, and in some cases, beleive it or not, in tails. It got to be such a competition between kids (and their parents) that the school district finally put a stop to it. Now the kids mostly wear slacks and a jacket and girls wear more modest dresses. I've never seen a kid who was gutsy enough to wear shorts to graduation. Maybe it's against school rules."

Figure 9.--American children have not commonly worn uniforms to school, but they used to dressup. This began to change after World War I. These California children are shown coming to school in 1981 wearing comfortable casual clothes.

The 1980s

Mant Americans traditionally thought that uniforms were elitist and discouraging individuality. These ideas began to change in the 1980s as some elementary schools began experimenting with voluntary uniforms. The moverment began promarily in the inner cities where school discipline was a problem. This engendered a public debate over the idea of school uniforms. Many began to see a school uniform as a way of improving school discipline. Some objected on principle seeing uniforms as stifling creativity and an attempt to militarize the school. Some charged that this was the beginning of NAZI totalitarianism, not realizing that the NAZIs never introduced school uniforms, although there were uniforms for just avout everyone else. Others while having no philopsphical objection to school uniforms arguethat given the reasons for these problems and diversness of cultural attitudes, the supposed positive results alleged to be effectuated by uniforms may prove to be mostly naive idealism. Most schools did have dress codes which after considerable lackness in the 1970s, they began enforcing more rigorosly although allowing considerable diversity. Many schools allowed shorts for both boys & girls as an option. In the early 80s, boys also like to wear OP shirts and OP long cords and canvas style pants. The all had the destinctive OP emblem embroidered in. Flaired pants were popular with boys in the late 1970s and early 80s. Starting in the late 70's, California boys would routinely wear shorts to school, especially elementary boys. They especially liked OP and short soccer shorts with long tube socks. It then became normal to wear shorts to school and that continues until today.

The 1990s

In California, the push to wear school uniforms started in the mid-1990s as a way to combat peer pressure and gang related clothing. Quite a few Elementary and Junior High schools have at least some kind of a uniform policy. Most require a white polo and slacks or shorts fort boys and slacks, skorts or shorts for girls and they are specific on how they are to be worn. Most have "Free Dress Days" once a month. The local Junior High school only allowed shorts on specifically approved days for a long time until someone sued and the principal gave in. Interestingly, this is one of the schools that still does not have uniforms, although they have some strict do's and don'ts as to what kids can wear (ie. T-shirts promoting alcohol, ets.)

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Created: September 7, 2001
Last updated: 8:20 PM 8/21/2022