*** school uniform schoolwear : United States -- pants trousers knickers





U.S. School Clothes: Pants and Trousers--Knickers


Figure 1.--Here we see nine boys, mostly older teenagers wearing suits and ties, holding their caps which were very popular at the time. The portrait is undated, but we would guess was taken about 1915-20. It was very common to wear suits to school at the time, especially for the boys attending high school. They are posing posing for a group portait infront of a brick and stone building that is almost certainly a school. We are not sure what the grouo is. We thought it might be the graduating seniors, but there are no guirls. The younger boy is presumably one of older boy's little brother. Some older boys wore knickers in the early 1910s, but this was less common by the end of the decade. Also notice the combed-back hair styles--the Great Gatsby look.

Knickers appeared in England during the late-19th century and became widely worn at schools there, at leat in the public (private boarding) schools. They were part of the school uniform at these schools. We do not see knickers being worn commonly at American schools. Knee pants became common, especially by the 1880s but not knickers. And by the 1890s we even begin to see teenagers wearing knee pants, but rarely knickers. This only changed changed after the turn-of-the 20th century. The change occurred suddenly in the late-1900s for reasons we do not understand. All we know as we suddntly see knickers in the mail order catalogs and photographic record. Knee pants were commonly worn in the 1900s, but this began to change about 1908-09. And by 1910, knickers became the dominant type of trousers at schools. And boys seem to have preferred them, at least this is what their parents purchased. Knickers became standard boys wear including school wear during the 1910s-30s, although the age conventions varied over time and from family to family. Knee panrs were virtually universal in the 1900s for pre-teen boys in elementary (primary) school as well as many teenagers. We even see some older teenagers wearing them in high school. This was much less common with teenagers leaving school at earlier ages. Gradually over time the age of boys wearing kncker suits declined to school, butknickers with shirts and sweaters were still standard in the 1920s and early-30s. We gradually see more long pants, especially by the late-30s and early-40s. Knickers were widely worn by primary boys as well as the younger teen-agers in junior highdchool. By the early 30s they became mostly worn in primary schools. Jacket styles varied. Norfolk jackets were popularin the 1910s, but we see single- and double-breasted jackets in the 1920s-30s. The ininital age conventions were similar to the age conventionsd for knee pants. Many boys wore corduroy knickers to school during the 1910s-30s. Gradually knickers began to decline in popularity during the late-30s and rapidly disappeared in the early-40s. Both fashion and the World War II desire to save fabric were factors.

Chronology

Knickers appeared in Europe during the mid-19th century. Along with knee pants, they were one of the shortened-length pants types that appeared for boys. We see some in America during the 1860s, but we do not know to what extent they were worn to school. School photography was not yet common. And as shortned-length pants became increasingly common in the late-19th century, we mostly see straight-leg knee pants rather than knickers. At the same time, school photography also developed and we mostly see knee pants in the rapidly expnding photographic record. This was different in Europe, both knickers and knee pants were worn to school. This was particularly the case in England, especially in the public (elite private boarding) schools. They were part of the school uniform at these schools. American children did not wear uniforms, except at private schools. We do not see knickers being worn commonly at American schools in the 19th century. Knee pants became common, especially by the 1880s but not knickers. Only younger boys wore knee pants until the 1890s when we see increasingly older boys wearing them. We even begin to see teenagers wearing knee pants, but rarely knickers. This continued into the 1900s decadeeven after the turn-of-the 20th century. But a change occurred suddenly in the late-1900s decade for reasons we do not understand. All we know as we suddenly see knickers in the mail order catalogs and photographic record. Knee pants were commonly worn in the 1900s, but this began to change about 1908-09. We see it very clearly in the photographic record. And by 1910, knickers became the dominant type of trousers at schools. And boys seem to have prefrred them, at least this is what their parents purchased. Knickers became standard boys wear including school wear during the 1910s-20s and early-1930s. Gradually knickers began to decline in popularity during the mid-30s but gradually. We see more boys wearing short pants and even more wearing long pants. By the early-40s there were far fewer boys wearing knickers and they were rather rare by the 1950s. American schools allowed boys to wear their own clothes so there was no real difference between school clothes and normal boy's wear.

Age Conventions

Age conventions for knickers varied over time and from family to family. At first they were comparable to knee pants. Knee pants were virtually universal in the 1900s for pre-teen boys in elementary (primary) school as well as many teenagers. We even see some older teenagers wearing them in high school. The basic exception was rural boys where long pants were also worn. Knee pants wer much less common with teenagers leaving school at earlier ages. Thes same age conventions continued as knickers replace knee pants. Gradually over time boys began wearing suits to school less commonly, but knickers with shirts and sweaters were still standard in the 1920s and early-30s. We gradually see more long pants, especially by the late-30s and early-40s. Knickers were widely worn by primary boys as well as the younger teen-agers in junior highdchool. By the early 30s they became mostly worn in primary schools. And by the en of the decade we we no longer se them in junior high scools. We still see them to some extentin elemntary schoolks in the early-40 but by mid-decade they had largely disappeared.

Jackets

Jacket styles varied. Norfolk jackets were popularin the 1910s, but we see single- and double-breasted jackets in the 1920s-30s. The ininital age conventions were similar to the age conventionsd for knee pants. Many boys wore corduroy knickers to school during the 1910s-30s.

Material

Both fashion and the World War II desire to save fabric were factors.







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Created: 10:11 PM 4/4/2008
Last updated: 10:00 PM 4/6/2023