French School Smocks: Colors--Gender Variations


Figure 1.-- 

At this time, HBC does not have full details on the color of French school smocks, especially over the many decaded since they were first extensively used in the early 1870s. We do not not if there gender differences during this period. Thus we can only state the few details that we have and expand on this beginning as we acquire additional information. SWe believe that the smocks worn by school children in the 1870s were dark blue or black. We lnow this was the case for boys' smocks, we are less sure about girls' smocks. We believe that by the turn of the century that boys were also wearing grey smocks, but that the dark blue and black ones were the most common. We note that by the late 1910s that children were wearing light colored smocks. There were many orphans created by World War I and some of the photographs taken in the orphanages show the children wearing light-colored smocks. We do not know if this was a peculaiarity of the orphanages or also reflected what was being worn in schools. Most of the available images during the inter-war era show boys wearing dark blue or black smocks. We know that light colored smocks had become quite common for girls by the 1930s, but we are unsure as to precisely when they began wearing the dark-colored smocks. Beginning about the 1930s, increasing diversity was noted in the color of school smocks, including the ones for boys. Both boys and girls began wearing the same colors, with a few exceptions.

19th Century (1860-1900)

At this time, HBC does not have full details on the Color of French school smocks, especially over the many decaded since they were first extensively used in the early 1870s. We do not not if there gender differences during this period. Thus we can only state the few details that we have and expand on this beginning as we acquire additional information. SWe believe that the smocks worn by school children in the 1870s were dark blue or black. We lnow this was the case for boys' smocks, we are less sure about girls' smocks.

Early 20th Century (1900-30)

Dark smocks, mostly black were the primary colors for boys. I beliecve that girls also wore dark smocks, but am not positive about this. We believe that by the turn of the century that boys were also wearing grey smocks, but that the black ones were the most common. We note that by the late 1910s that some children were wearing light colored smocks. There were many orphans created by World War I and some of the photographs taken in the orphanages show the children wearing light-colored smocks. In this regard there does not appear to have been a differentiation based on gender. We do not know if this was a peculaiarity of the orphanages or also reflected what was being worn in schools. HBC has not noted school children wearing the light-colored smocks, but we have only a few images from this period and thus can not draw in firm conclusions.

Mid-20th Century (1930-65)

Some of the available images during the inter-war era show boys wearing dark blue or black smocks. This appears especially true of the 1920s. We have noted, however, an increasing diversity in smock colors by the 1930s. To some extent this is was affected by wear one lived. Boys in villages and rural areas were most likely to wear the traditional dark smocks. I'm less sure about what girls wore in rural areas. Boys in Paris and the larger cities, began wearing lighter pastel colors. Beginning about the 1930s, increasing diversity was noted in the color of school smocks, including the ones for boys. Both boys and girls began wearing the same colors, with a few exceptions. A HBC reader provides us the following color conventions during this period.

Colors for boys

Boys wore a wide variety of colors. Boys might wear just about any color smock except except pink and white. The choive was largely made by the boy's mother, normally without consilting him on the matter. The choice was thus based on her tastes. As a result some mothers prefered pastel colors and some dark colors. The darker black or blue smocks were still common, especially in rural areas during the 1920s. In the 1930s the pastel colors began to become much more popular. Mothers basically picked colors that they liked and thus did not differentiate very much concerning the color for boys or girls. As a result, the pastel colors became the most common for both boys and girls. This was quite a shift as black smocks had been almost ubiquitous before World War I (1914-18). Grey smocks which had also been popular before the War also virtually disappeared. Grey was seen as more like working clothes. By the late 1940s, the lighter colors as dominate as the dark smocks had once been. Presumably the boys did not like pink because it was beginning to be regarded as a girls' color. White of course was not very practical for boys--although we have noted white smocks being worn in other countries. A French reader tells HBC that he is not sure why white was never used for smocks in France. White was used for rompers and baby clothes.

Color for girls

All colors except white was worn. I am not sure why girls did not wear white smocks. Sky or light blue was generally avoided because it was so commonly used for boys' smocks. Girls smocks by he 1930s were always pastel colors.

Other colors

While many colors were worn we have not noted either bys or girls wearing very bright colored smocks like yellow and orange.

Decorative Color

Besides the color of the smock, color could also be used in the decorative trim. Such trim was used for both boys' and girls' smocks. Trim was some times added to provide a little decorative colors to the smocks. The smocks could be made with one or too sorts of cloth. Quite often with decoratibe braid ("croquets") were added. Color could also be added by "lisières" or "liserais" (selvage). Selvage is the edge of a woven or flat knitted garment finised to prevent raveling. It is often a narrow border in different or heavier threads than the garment itself.

Late 20th Century (1965-2000)


General Color Page

The information on this page is about the gender connotations of school smock colors. General information on the colors of school smocks and changes ober time can be obtained by clicking on the link.




Christopher Wagner





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Created: January 5, 2002
Last updated: January 6, 2002