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A muff is a kind of cylinder tube fashioned of fur or other heavy warm material into which the hands are placed during the winter for warmth when going outdoors. It was a fashion accessory because mittens or gloves were a less expensive approach for keeping the hands warm. It was first introduced to women's fashion in Europe (16th century). It proved popular with both men and women (17th and 18th centuries). Over time the muff developed as primarily a woman's item. And done in fur it culd have a very fashiomable look. It appeaes to have grdually declined in popularity during the 19th century, although our information is limited. This was definitely the case by the early-20th century. The muff came to be seen as old fashioned. We think that some younger boys in the 19th century might have muffs, a least in upper class families, but it was primrily a garment for women and girls. One HBC contributor inquires if boys who wore long curls and hair bows with dresses include girlish muffs? HBC is unsure. Ceratinly boys after breeching would not have worn muffs, but I have never read about what the convention was before breeching. It seems likely, however, that if the boy has not yet been breeched that a boy might have had a muff, this is especially true as muffs were worn by men and women in the 18th century and only gradually became a woman's garment in the 19th century. Thus a small boy in dresses may well have had a muff as well in cold weather.
A muff is a kind of cylinder tube fashioned of fur or other heavy warm material into which the hands are placed during the winter for warmth when going outdoors. It was a fashion accessory because mittens or gloves were a less expensive approach for keeping the hands warm.
A HBC contributor believes that boys did wear muffs in cold weather. He also believes that they wore bonnets. HBC thinks that younger boys who had not yet been breached may have had mufflers. HBC is less sure about bonnets.
Muffs and bonnets would have been very much in keeping with the costumes of young gentlemen who wore dresses and whose hair was kept in beautiful long curls tied with ribbons and bows. Surprisingly, the photographic record of boys wearing muffs and bonnets seems quite sparse, but this probably partly reflects the fact that photographs of boys in muffs and bonnets are likely to have been interpreted to be girls. Traditionally, of
course, muffs and bonnets have been widely worn by girls, but there is substantial evidence that boys also wore muffs and bonnets.
It was first introduced to women's fashion in Europe (16th century). It proved popular with both men and women (17th and 18th centuries). Over time the muff developed as primarily a woman's item. And done in fur it was both expensive and had a very fashiomable look.
In the 18th century, muffs were worn by both men and women.
Paintings and woodcuts show that well-dressed women commonly wore large elaborate
muffs. Men, are also shown with large muffs, although much less commonly so than women. During the 19th century, however, muffs were no longer stylish for men, although it was reported that the Austrian emperor continued to use muffs until the dawn of the 20th century. While muffs and bonnets were highly stylish at times, they also provided protection from cold, wind, and sun, and therefore would also have been practical garments for many occasions. Muffs appeaer to have grdually declined in popularity duringthe 19th century, although our information is limited. This was definitely the case by the early-20th century. The muff came to be seen as old fashioned. We think that some younger boys in the 19th century might have muffs, a least in upper class families, but it was primrily a garment for women and girls. We note some girls with muffs in an Iowa school during 1909. One HBC contributor inquires if boys who wore long curls and hair bows with dresses include girlish muffs? HBC is unsure. Ceratinly boys after breeching would not have worn muffs, but I have never read about what the convention was before breeching. It seems likely, however, that if the boy has not yet been breeched that a boy might have had a muff, this is especially true as muffs were worn by men and women in the 18th century and only gradually became a woman's garment in the 19th century. Thus a small boy in dresses may well have had a muff as well in cold weather.
Much of what we may surmise about boys using muffs and bonnets in Victorian and Edwardian times is based on the descriptions of patterns in magazines of the day. Childfren's clothes were often custom made, either by the child's mother or a seamstress, who would purchase a pattern in the appropriate size and style for the garment to made for the child. The magazines are extensively illustrated with engravings and drawings that document in
great detail the children's styles of the era.
There was usually little ambiguity whether a garment was intended for
a boy or girl. It would be stated as suitable for boys or for girls, or
for both boys and girls. When a garment was stated to be suitable for
children, it would have been appropriate for either boys or girls. The age range of a pattern for a garment was also stated. There are many examples of lovely dresses and coats suitable for younger boys and girls, but some beautifully elaborate dresses and outdoor ensembles were also intended for boys and girls as old as seven or eight. Many of
the outdoor ensembles described as suitable for children from 3-6 or 7 years, for example, include muffs and bonnets.
The December 1895 issue of the Ladies Standard Magazine features
patterns for an elaborate "Little Red Riding Hood" ensemble styled for spring wear by small children (figure 1) . Although the ensemble would seem very feminine today, the description emphasizes that it would be very suitable for boys from 2-6 years old. The magazine waxes eloquently that "...the wee New Woman has trespassed very
frequently on her small masculine relative's rights lately by wearing
reefers, tams, kilts, and leggings that are exact copies of his own, but in this instance Little Brother comes near to getting even with her, for the pretty little out-door garment shown in the illustration is as suitable for his wear as hers. For a small boy who has not yet had his curls cut nor displayed a taste for trousers, this pattern
would develop stylishly...."
Various fabrics and colors are mentioned, but in keeping with the Little Red Riding Hood motif, one of the suggested styles employs scarlet woolen "astrachan" cloth mottled with black for the cloak, whereas the cape, cuffs, and muff are of black velvet, and the dainty little muff is lined with scarlet silk and tied with scarlet ribbons. The sleeves
of the cloak are very bouffant. The quaintly picturesque old-fashioned granny bonnet is of Persian lamb and trimmed with scarlet silk. Broad scarlet gros-grain ribbon forms an elaborate bow by which the bonnet is tied about the neck, and a large rosette of scarlet gros-grain ribbon is perched as a spectacular decoration on the top of the bonnet. lose-fitting cloth leggings with many buttons complete the ensemble.
"Mutton-chop" or bouffant sleeves were very stylish in the mid-1890s, and were highly prized for coats and dresses for girls and well as grown women. They were also incorporated in boys' dresses and coats, although they were usually somewhat smaller. The sleeves of the Little Red Riding Hood cloak illustrated here, however, are so immense that the cloak and the overlying velvet shoulder cape must have been uncomfortably bulky and would have inhibited the activities of a small
boy.
In spite of its seeming discomfort for a small boy, the stylish ensemble must have been strongly appealing to many a mother, and it would also ensure that her 5- or 6-year old "Little Red Riding Hood" would remain snug and warm wherever he went. Thus, the ensemble was probably highly prized for dress occasions throughout the year, and should have been as appropriately festive for an afternoon garden party as it would have been for wear at Sunday school or church.
Thus, clad in such a strikingly stylish ensemble and perhaps with his lovely long curls tied with a matching scarlet hair ribbon, it would seem that Little Brother had actually gotten even with the wee New Woman. Whether Little Brother liked to appear as a picturesque Little Red Riding Hood in the process is questionable, although hopefully he enjoyed the elegance of his dainty muff, his cloak with its immense bouffant sleeves and broad velvet
cape, and his frilly granny bonnet.
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