*** ethnic costumes: male German tracht








Ethnic Clothes: Male German Costumes


Figure 1.--

Some of the best known German ethnic costumes are lederhosen, both short pants and knicker style. These ethnic costumes are called "tracht". Lederhosen are commonly worn by German bands and dance groups. Boys participating in German ethnic events commonly dress up in lederhosen. HBC has noted consideable variation in folk costume. Many of these variations may be just variation of the costumes worn in Germany. Some of these differences may be regionally based. The outfits included different types of hats, blazers, shirts, pants, and socks. I'm not sure what the hat style was called but feathers were often added. One style is the Allgäuer Hat with Gamsbart. For festive occasions--a single flower in hat is added to match the womens' hats. The blazers were often grey with a wide variety of trim--often in green. Trachten shirts often have their sleeves rolled up. The pants were either lederhosen or knickers style pants. Some were elaborately trimmed. Hosenträger is one distinctive regional style. It may have gereen embrodiery with large white Edelweiss. Boys wore both kneesocks and a kind of hose that was a band around the calf. The kneesocks are most commonly gray with double green stripes. I'm not sure why this type of kneesock is so common. Trachten shoes are also worn. A German reader tells HBC that until about 1920 or so, the boys, who took care of cattle in the Black Forest, wore a mantle of straw over the clothes, which they usually got from their employer.

Regional Variations

HBC has noted consideable variation in German folk costume. There are several interesting German studies on these regional folk costumes. These differencesin folk costumes have developed as a result of the way people used to make clothing. In the years before people traveled widely and there were no magazines and other publications to spread fashion, people tended to copy familiar fashions. Thus regionally based styles graually developed into folk costumes. We note men and women's styles in these regional outfits, but not normally destinctive tyles for children.

Garments

The outfits included different types of hats, blazers, shirts, pants, and socks. Some of the major garments worn as part ethnic costuming include the following:

Headwear

Trachten headwear varies by region and by Verein within the region. We see basically two different Trachten headwear being worn with Lederhosen. One was a rather informal green cap without a fully formed brim and a cord serving as a kind of hat band. We only see boys and men wearing these caps. We have noted this headwear referred to as an Alpine caps. We have noted a reference to the Allgäuer Hat with Gamsbart. For festive occasions--a single flower in hat is added to match the womens' hats. We think this may be the green Alpine caps. We also note a black hat, usually with a rounded crown abnd upturned brim. We do not know what this hat was called. Unlike the Alpibe cap, this back hat was worn by both boys and girls. We see feathers or Gamsbarts (the beard of a chamois) commonly added to both types of headwear. Boys and men must remove their headwear in church or during outdoors worship. An exception here is flag bearers or musicians who are playing in a standing band. Seated musicians commonly remove theirheadwear. With these exceptions, males wear their headwear noth indoors and out. A factor here is that the hat was once was a symbol of a free man, destinguishing him from a feudal serf.

Jackets

The jackets were often grey with a wide variety of trim--often in green.

Shirts

Trachten shirts often have their sleeves rolled up.

Ties


Vests

HBC has noted some boys wearing vests. We do not know just how common they were or what the conventions were for wearing them. We have noted some boys wearng red vests.

Lederhosen

Some of the best known German ethnic costumes are lederhosen, both short pants and knicker style. These ethnic costumes are called "tracht". Lederhosen are commonly worn by German bands and dance groups. Boys participating in German ethnic events commonly dress up in lederhosen. Some were elaborately trimmed. Hosenträger is one distinctive regional style. It may have green embrodiery with large white Edelweiss.

Knickers

Knicker-length leather pants were also worn.

Hosiery

Boys wore both kneesocks and a kind of hose that was a band around the calf. The knee socks are most commonly gray with double green stripes. I'm not sure why this type of kneesock is so common.

Shoes

Trachten shoes are also worn.

Work Costumes

A German reader tells HBC that until about 1920 or so, the boys, who took care of cattle in the Black Forest, wore a mantle of straw over the clothes, which they usually got from their employer.






HBC




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Created: September 10, 2001
Last updated: 4:09 PM 6/6/2010