knee socks : cuffs turn-over tops








Knee Socks: Cuffs/Turn-Over Tops


Figure 1.--Britush school boys by the 1980s commonly wore kneesocks without the turn-over-top cuffs, even in private schools.

Kneesocks were traditionally worn cuffed at the top. This was because long stockings could be converted to kneesocks by cuffing the extra length to knee length. As hosiery companues were accustomed to making over the knee stockings, kneesocks in the 1910s and 20s were normally made at a length that required that a cuffed be formed to bring them to knee length. The kneesock cuff was also used to hide the garter or rubber band used to hold them in place. Gradually this kneesock cuff became a stlistic convention, especially in in Britain and for Boy Scouts. After World War II (1939-45) the top of the socks were elasticated. (This is one of a wide range of fashion/clothing developments we have noted after both World war I amd II in the 20th century. Once elasticized, the kneesock cuffs were no longer necessary--except for stylisic reasons. After World War II it became much more common to wear kneesocks with out cuffs. This was in part because the socks without cuffs required less material and thus could be sold more cheaply. Ankel socks also became more popular and, at least by boys, were normally worn without cuffs. The cuffed style was consideed preferable by some so kneesocks continued to be made in both styles. A French reader tells us, for example, "Multiple cuffed ankle socks were considered more fashionable and some mothers insisted on them. Thus we note that some fashionably dressed boys wear cuffed ankel socks." This may expalin why some British boys after World War II also wore cuffed kneesocks, but we primarily note them being worn as school uniform or Scout uniform." Some younger Vrirish boys wore cuffed ankle socks, but this appears to have been more common in France. It was quite rare in America and Germany.

Terminology

The term "kneesocks" was commonly used in America. The British commonly called the long version that could be cuffed "turn-over-top socks". Thus the "cuffs" that we refer to her can also be called "turn-over tops". We have also noted the shorter version that could not be cuffed being referred to as "long socks" in Britain.

Purpose

Kneesocks were traditionally worn cuffed at the top. This was because long stockings could be converted to kneesocks by cuffing the extra length to knee length. As hosiery companues were accustomed to making over the knee stockings, kneesocks in the 1910s and 20s were normally made at a length that required that a cuffed be formed to bring them to knee length. The kneesock cuff was also used to hide the garter or rubber band used to hold them in place.

Stylistic Convention

Gradually this kneesock cuff became a stlistic convention, especially in in Britain and for Boy Scouts. This stylistic convention may expalin why some British boys after World War II also wore cuffed kneesocks, but we primarily note them being worn as school uniform or Scout uniform.

Elastization

After World War II (1939-45) the top of the socks were elasticated. (This is one of a wide range of fashion/clothing developments we have noted after both World war I amd II in the 20th century. Once elasticized, the kneesock cuffs were no longer necessary--except for stylisic reasons. After World War II it became much more common to wear kneesocks without cuffs. It should be noted that elastization was not a perfect solution to the problem. This was because that the elastization was affected by washing. Thus after a few washings the socks would not hold in place as well as when they were new.

Country Trends

Not only did elasticzation after World War II (1939-45) affect the kneesock cuffs, but general clothing trends also affected kneesocks. After World War II it became less common for boys to wear knee socks with turn-over tops or cuffs. Here the pattern varied from country to country. Wearing kneesocks declined sharply during World War II. This was in part because knickers rapidly declined in popularity. Most boys wearing short pants wore them with ankle socks. We rarely note American boys wearing cuffed kneesocks after World war II, except for Scouting. Before World War II, British boys generally wore short pants suits to school with turn-over-top kneesocks. This became much less common after the War. Not only did boys begin wearing suits less, but in the 1950s the short pants suit began to decline in popularity and by the late 70s was not generally available even for younger boys. Boys still wore short trousers in England but increasingly either for play or school. Wearing elasticized kneesocks without cuffs or turn-over-tops was common by the 1960s. General trends in Scotland were similar to England. We noted that turn-over top socks are almost always worn with the kilt.

Ankle Socks

Ankle socks also became more popular and, at least by boys, were normally worn without cuffs. The cuffed style was consideed preferable by some so kneesocks continued to be made in both styles. A French reader tells us, for example, "Multiple cuffed ankle socks were considered more fashionable and some mothers insisted on them. Thus we note that some fashionably dressed boys wear cuffed ankle socks." Some younger British boys wore cuffed ankle socks, but this appears to have been more common in France. It was quite rare in America and Germany.

Knickers

It should be remembered that kneesocks were also worn with knickers. This was especially common in America during the 1920s and 30s, but knickers rapidly went out of style during the 1940s. Knickers were also worn with kneesocks in Europe, but more by older boys. Some European boys wore knickers into the early 50s. At first boys wore knckers with long stockings, but kneesocks gained in popularity during the 1920s. We have noted boys cuffing kneesock over the hem of their knickers, especially in the 19th century. This was also the style in which American Scouts wore their knicker uniform. More commonly boys would buckle their knickers over their kneesocks. We are unsure how tthe kneesocks were done by these boys, but believe it is unlikely that they cuffed them.

Reader Comment

A British reader tells us, "In my own short trouser days in England, the later 1950s and very early 60s, my knee socks always had turn-over-tops (or cuffs as HBC calls them). These could be plain grey or have the schoolcolours (red and yellow at my grammar school) around the turn-overs. Even with the elasticated tops the socks often did not stay up without garters, especially after several washings, since the elastication did not stand up well to this. In fact, in hotter weather the socks could often make the legs itchy and so we boys would often wear them pushed down to our ankles, concertina-fashion."






Christopher Wagner





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Created: December 6, 2002
Last updated: December 11, 2002