Long Stockings: Shift to Beige Stockings (1920s-20s)


Figure 1.--This is 10-year old Fred Ereleth. He was froms Pittsfield, Maine. The portrait is undated, but we would guess it was taken about 1890. It is a good example of wearing black stockings. These black stockings were by far the most common hosiery worn by American boys until after World War I.

Boys have worn different colors of long stockings. We note that in the late 19th and early 20th century that black was by far the dominant color worn. This changed rapidly after World War I and neutral colors, escially brownish shades like tan and beige were commonly worn. Grey was also worn, but the browish shades were more common. We are not quite sure why this changed occurred. Not all fashion changes can be easily explained. We do not know why the change occurred. One reader writes, "After having read the HBC texts on black or white stockings, I wonder why tan or beige stockings became so popular? Like the white ones, beige stockings also showed the dirt. Do you have an idea who initiated first this fashion in the 1920s. HBC's interpretation is that beige stockings were perceived as more natural like when the boy or the girl had bare legs. The more natural look appears to have been the most popular. A HBC reader comments, "I think the reason for changing from black stockings to tan or brown stockings in the 1920s was chiefly a relaxation of formality. The tan stockings were more "modern" and casual in appearance without being as informal as knee socks or anklets. Also, washing machines and more efficient means of laundering made lighter colored stockings more practical. They showed soil much more readily but it was now possible to change them oftener."

Earlier Colors

Boys have worn different colors of long stockings. We note that stripped stockings were very popular in the 1870s and early 80s. We also note colored stockings like red being worn, although this is very difficult to detect in the black and white photographic portraits of the day. We note that in the late 19th and early 20th century that black was by far the dominant color worn. White stockings were also weorn, but this was mostly by girls and younger boys.

Shift after World War I

The colors of stickings changed rapidly after World War I and neutral colors, escially brownish shades like tan and beige were commonly worn. Grey was also worn, but the browish shades were more common.

Overall 1920s Fashion Trends

HBC has focused primarily on boys' clothing. This is of course only one part of the fashion changes in the 1920s. A HBC reader writes, "As you know, the 1920s was a an era in which a great revolution in fashion, both for children and adults. Women shortenened their dress at over-the-knee lenght. it was the first time in history that woman knees were shown in Western fashion. (Mens' knees were shown earlier, buth not those of women.) Corsets disappeared, even garter belts. Stockings were rolled over the knee and tied up by eleastic garters. It was like if women proclaimed: "We have a body and we want to show you it is true". At the same time, silk stockings became very popular. Black was less and less used for the main reason that it had become associated with many negative connotations. One was mourning of which there was a great deal of during World War I. Black also became identified with prostitution. Remember "The Blue Angel", this film of Sternberg with Marleen Dietrich."

Reason for Change

We are not quite sure why this changed occurred. Not all fashion changes can be easily explained. We do not know why the change occurred. Some of our readers, however, have suggested some possible factors. One reader writes, "After having read the HBC texts on black or white stockings, I wonder why tan or beige stockings became so popular? Like the white ones, beige stockings also showed dirt. Do you have an idea who initiated first this fashion in the 1920s. HBC's interpretation is that beige stockings were perceived as more natural like when the boy or the girl had bare legs. The more natural look appears to have been the most popular. A HBC reader comments, "I think the reason for changing from black stockings to tan or brown stockings in the 1920s was chiefly a relaxation of formality. The tan stockings were more "modern" and casual in appearance without being as informal as knee socks or anklets. Also, washing machines and more efficient means of laundering made lighter colored stockings more practical. They showed soil much more readily but it was now possible to change them oftener." Another reader provides his assessment of why the brown shades became more common. He writes, "Ceratainly the formality associared with black was a factor. The negative associations of black, both mourning and women of loose morals, were other factors. White on the other hand was identified with innocence and purity which was less and less believed to be expression of children beings, mainly boys, after Freud's writings . Because of pressures from Churches and well-meaning people, there was a kind of compromise adopted around 1930. Tan stockings for children became popular because it was a kind of compromise between the avant-garde initiated by Poiret in France and more socially acceptable garments. I think that light brown stockings was the answer to this and also waist stockings suspenders. Short pants became an expression of freedom of movements if compared to knickers . But everywhere even in Florida where temperature is warm, it was usual to wear long stockings because they appear less indecent or more casual than bare legs. it was easier also to pull down stockings when having to do sports. The knee-lenght stockings was an issue to the problem of stockings suspenders which were really unconfortable. Those one were adopted more and more from more and more mild weather countries, including the United States." Another reader suggess, "The color tan was more natural than dyed colors like black or white. Every stockings were made with raw material which were dyed after. So, this return to nature was expressed by tan color . Even if on today, those stockings may seem dull and "drab", it was a kind of revolution over the past. Children wore shorter dresses because more convenient for play and at the same time they wore tan stockings because from a natural texture which gave the feeling that boys and girls were naked legs while those one where hidden under heavy stockings , mainly during winters."

Country Trends

This shift to brown shades like beige occurred both in Europe and America. We do not have details yet on the precise time-line in each country or the exact shades worn, but the basic trend toward brown shades occurred in both Europe and America beginning in the 1920s. These shades comtinued to be worn until long stockings began going out of style. Long stockings went out of style in America during the 1940s. Long stickings lasted longer in other countries such as Canada and Germany and it was the brown shades that were the most common into the 1950s. We still note these flesh tones like beige being worn into the 1960s. A good example is two Soviet boys.







HBC






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Created: 1:23 AM 3/1/2005
Last updated: 12:04 AM 9/1/2006