Swiss Knickers


Figure 1.--Here two boys are wearing knickers in a 1941 class portrait. Most of the other boys wear short pants. The portrait was taken at the Hombrechtikon School in Hombrechtikon, Switzerland, on 27 February 1941. Hombrecthtikon was a town near Zurich in the Zurich canton. Knickers seem to have been especially popular in Switzerland.

Knickers were commonly worn by Swiss boys. There popularity varied over time. We are not sure about the 19th century. They were not very common in the early 20th century, knee pants were more common. Mostly older boys wore them at first as younger boys commonly wore short pants. We see even Kindergateners wearing them after World War II, especially in the 1950s. They seem especially popular in the 1950s. Often boys wore knickers rather than long pants after graduating from short pants. Some younger boys who mostly wore shorts did have knickers for the colder winter months. During the summer knickers might be worn with ankle socks. Knickers were commonly worn through the 1940s and into the 1950s. Afterward they became associated with cold weather clothes as ski pants.

Terminology

We are not sure what knickers were called in Switzerland. They may have used the terms used in neighboring Germany, France, and Italy. And we are not sure if there was a different term for regular knickers and plus-fours. One source suggests knickers in German were called "Pumphose". A German reader tells us that as a boy he and his friendes in the 1940s used the English term "knickerbockers". Hopefully our Swiss readers will provide some information here. We are also not sure what term the French-speaking Swiss boys used. Knickers in French were called "pantalons golf" or simply "golfs". This may have bee used in Switzerland as well. We are not sure what the italian terms were.

Chronology

We are not yet sure when Swiss boys first began wearing knickers. We are not sure about the 19th century. They were not very common in the early 20th century, knee pants were more common. Mostly older boys wore them at first as younger boys commonly wore short pants. We see even Kindergateners wearing them after World War II, especially in the 1950s. They seem especially popular inthe 1950s. Afterward the 1950s, knickers became associated with cold weather wear. Readers can view the changing popularity of knickers and other pants over time in the individual Swiss school chronology.

Popularity

Knickers were commonly worn by Swiss teenagers. Many boys about 12 or 13 in the 1940s and 50s began wearing knickers rather than short pants. A Swiss reader reports that in the 1940s that most teenage boys wore knickers, over 90 percent of the boys not wearing short pants any more.

Age

Mostly older boys wore them before Wor;d War II as younger boys commonly wore short pants. Often boys wore knickers rather than long pants after graduating from short pants. Knickers were worn either year round as from 12-13 years up 16-18 or during colder period november-march for boys still in shorts otherwise. After World War II we see younger boys wearing knickers. The fashion of knickers lost in popularity from years 1960 and quickly disappeared, replaced by real long pants.

Style

We see Swiss schools wearing different styles of knickers. Swiss boys at first reportedly wore knickers at nearly ankle level. Gradually shorter knickers appeared up the knne length. Boys did not wear above the knee knickers. We see boys wearing trimly tailored knickers as well as the more baggy plus-fours. In the Swiss school portraits we often see boys, especially older boys, wearing plus-fours that are so baggy that they seem more like plus-eights. The term, "plus fours" means knickers that blouse four inches below the knee. Some of the Swiss knickers come down much beyond four inches below the knee. I believe the term "plus-fours" is strictly British. I think the term was not much used in America, and, as for continental Europe,

Material

Swiss knickers in to the 1950s were made out of wool, as the synthetic fibers were not yet available, being developed only during the World War II era.

Colors

The colors were similar to those of short pants, plain blue, grey, brown.

Seasonality

Some younger boys who mostly wore shorts did have knickers for the colder winter months.

Hosiery

Socks were either kneesocks or ankle socks (whatever lenght of knickers) and types as well as colors were similar to those worn with short pants. About any colors from white to black, plain colors of discret patterns. Socks (as well as pullovers) were frequently knitted by mothers, grand-mothers, godmothers and childless aunts. During the summer knickers were often worn with ankle socks.

Conventions

Knickers were worn both with the sunday best suit and as school or play clothes. Suits for boys up to 16 years were very frequently made as a three pieces suit with jacket, short pant and knickers.

Nationality

Switzerland is a multi-ethnic country. There are some clothing differences among these groups. French boys, for example, commonly wore school smocks while German boys did not. Our Swiss reader reports, however, that as far as knickers were concerned, he is not aware of any difference.







HBC




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Created: January 27, 2001
Last edited: 11:03 PM 4/7/2009