Figure 1.--This is an drawing prepred for punlicztiomn by the Scottish engraver John Kay (1742-1826). Until the urn of the 20th centuris, engravrs wre ned to print images. TYhis one wsas dated 1784. The images producd by 18th century engtvers tend to be more basic thn wht w se in the 19yh century. It depicts Francis Garden, Lord Gardenstone (1721-1793), at the time a senator of the College of Justice in Scotland. The judge is depicted riding his horse and with his dog Smash. A barefoot boy in a kilt is running following him. Many poor Scottisdh boy wore kilts, but yhis boy evn hough h isbrefoo looktgo be wering an expensive Highland oitfit rather thasn a basic, inexpemsive kilt. In yhis case, the boy msay be in service as prt of Grdnston's household. The engraving is archived at the National Portrait Gallery, London..

We do not yet have good fix on how commom kilts were in Scotlnd during the 18th century. Our HBC website is primarily based on photographic evidence. Assessing fashion trends bref=fore invention of photography in Franmce (1839) is much more difficvult. There are other sources such as drawings and paintings as well as writtem sources. But these are much more limited than the photopgraphic ecidence that became available fter the invention of photography. Scottish dress patterns in the early 18th Century, before the disastrous Battle of Culloden, changed notably. The growing English influence helped to fuel Scottish national sentiment. The wearing of kilts increased in urban lowland areas as the kilt was increasingly seen as a symbol of Scotland. We have no information, however, about how common it was for boys to wear the kilt. We believe it wa primarily a function of what their fathers wore, but weave no actual confirmation of this. One factor that mush have had some impact was the cost of clothes. Kilts because they were simpler than breeches were less expensive. We xsuspect tyhis wa more imprtant han a ntionlist statement. Thus poorer families may have been more likely to dress their children in kilts. Some major developments occurred in the early 18th century which were to affect clothing fashions and usage in Scotland. Culloden changed everything. Prince Charles Edward Stuart, Bonnie Prince Charlie, seeking to take advantage of rising Jacobin feeling entered Scotland with French assistance in 1745. No name in Scottish history evokes more emotion than that of Culloden, the bleak moor which in 1746 saw the hopes of the young Prince Edward Stuart crushed, and the end of the Jacobite Rising, the 'Forty-Five.' After the disaterous bsattle, thee British hunted Charles as a fugitive for 5 months. He somehow managed to evade the intense efforts by the British to track him down. Despite the dangers, the Highlanders never betrayed him. Charles finally managed to escape by ship to France. A Flora MacDonald on the Scottish island of Benbecula is credited with helping him finally escape. European aarmies led by Prussia had been major innovations. These included the flintlock musket, grapeshot, effective formations, bayonets, and other innovations. The resulting fire power was on display at Culloden. Culloden is the best known battle fought in 1746, but not the most significant. In the immediate aftermath of Culloden, the English Army hunted down the Highland clans that had support Bonnie Prince Charlie. There were summary and public execuutions. Whole families were slaughtered or their homes burned down and women and children turned out to face the elements. Many emigrated to America. New laws were enacted to supress Scottish nationalism. The English Government seeking to end Highland uprisings forever, enacted a law making it illegal for Highlanders to own or possess arms. The English next in 1747 enacted the Dress Act restricted the wearing of Highland clothes. Any form of plaid, philbeag, belted plaid, trews, shoulder belt, or little kilt were not to be worn in public. We are not sure to weht xtent this was enfirce against children.

Early-18th Century (1700-1746)

Scottish dress patterns in the early 18th Century, before the disastrous Battle of Culloden, changed notably. The growing English influence helped to fuel Scottish national sentiment. The wearing of kilts increased in urban lowland areas as the kilt was increasingly seen as a symbol of Scotland. We have no information, however, about how common it was for boys to wear the kilt. We believe it wa primarily a function of what their fathers wore, but whave no actual confirmation of this. One factor that mush have had some impact was the cost of clothes. Kilts because they were simpler than breeches were less expensive. We xsuspect tyhis wa more imprtant han a ntionlist sxttemrent. Thus poorer families may have been more likely to dress their children in kilts. Some major developments occurred in the early 18th century which were to affect clothing fashions and usage in Scotland. The Glorious Revolution of 1688 replaced James II. While unlike his father, he did not lose his head. The fall of the Stuart dynasty with their Scottish connections gave rise to increasing anti-English feeling in Scotland. Because of the growing strength of Jacobism, the English government felt it necessary take a more active interest in the Highland affairs. In 1707,The Act of Union took place, and succeeded in temporarily uniting the political factions and clans that were universally opposed to the Act. The tartan came into it's own as a symbol of active nationalism and was seen by the ruling classes to be garb of extremism. It is also believed that this Act of Parliament succeeded in uniting, to some extent, the Scottish Highlands and Lowlands, as the wearing of the tartan spread from the Highlands to the Lowlands, previously not known for their wearing of the tartan. After the Higland Rising of 1715, the English Government found the need to enforce stricter policing of the Scottish Highlands and Lowlands. A number of independent companies were formed to curtail the lawlessness that had developed. One of the features that distinguished their recruits were the large number of Highland gentlemen that enlisted and chose to serve in the private ranks. Many an English officer was surprised to see these Scottish privates attended by personal servants who carried their food, clothing, and weapons. From the time they were first raised, these independent regiments became known as the Black Watch, in reference to the darkly colored tartans they were known to wear.

Culloden (1746)

Culloden changed everything. Prince Charles Edward Stuart, Bonnie Prince Charlie, seeking to take advantage of rising Jacobin feeling entered Scotland with French assistance in 1745. No name in Scottish history evokes more emotion than that of Culloden, the bleak moor which in 1746 saw the hopes of the young Prince Edward Stuart crushed, and the end of the Jacobite Rising, the 'Forty-Five.'

Lochiel, Lochiel! beware of the day
When the Lowlands shall meet thee in battle array!
For a field of the dead rushes red on my sight,
And the clans of Culloden are scattered in fight.
They rally, they bleed, for their country and crown;
Woe, woe, to the rider that tramples them down!
Proud Cumberland prances, insulting the slain,
And their hoof-beaten bosoms are trod to the plain.

-- Thomas Campbell.

Late-18th Century (1746-1800)

In the immediate aftermath of Culloden, the English Army hunted down the Highland clans that had support Bonnie Prince Charlie. There were summary and public execuutions. Whole families were slaughtered or their homes burned down and women and children turned out to face the elements. Many emigrated to America. New laws were enacted to supress Scottish nationalism. The English Government seeking to end Highland uprisings forever, enacted a law making it illegal for Highlanders to own or possess arms. The English next in 1747 enacted the Dress Act restricted the wearing of Highland clothes. Any form of plaid, philbeag, belted plaid, trews, shoulder belt, or little kilt were not to be worn in public. Punishment for a first offence was a 6-month imprisonment, a second offence earned the wearer a 7-year exile to an oversea work farm. I am not sure just how the Dress Act was enforced, especially as regards boys. The bagpipes were outlawed, being considered an instrument of war. Only those individuals in the British Army were permitted to wear the plaid, and as a result, it is told that many Highlanders enlisted simply to be allowed to wear their more comfortable traditional dress. More likely it was the economic enducements. British repression of the clans left mans clans men with little alternative employment. We are not sure to weht xtent this was enfirce against children.

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Created: 8:05 PM 1/18/2022
Last updated: 8:05 PM 1/18/2022