** Scottish kilts usage: chronology -- late 19th centuty








Scottish Kilt Usage: Chronology--19th Century


Figure 1.--This CDV portait unfortunately has dtetirioated, but it shows that fashionanle Scottish familiies were dressing their children in elaborate complete Highland kilt outdi=ts in the late-19th century. It of course does not tell us what Scittish boys were wearing for day-to-day when not taken to the photographic studio. The portait is not dated, but was probably taklen about 1880. The studio was J. Stuart in Glasgow.

We are not sure precisely how common it was for Scottish boys to wear kilts in the early-19th Century. Certainly poets like James Burns and novelists like Sir walter Scott helped to lead a Scottish revival. The kilt does seem to have grown in popularity during this period. The performance of Scottish regiments in the Napoleonic Wars was another factor in popularizing the kilt. What is not clear to us is just who in Scotland was wearing the kilts and for what occasions. We believe that kilts were much more commonly worn by Scottish boys in rural areas during this era, especially boys from poor families. This was probably more of an economic matter as a kilt was a less expensive garment than trousers. More affluent boys in urban aras might, like their fathers, have a dress kilt for formal occasions. Evidence on the prevalence of 19th century boys to wear the kilt is scanty at best. It is clear that tartan suddently became fashionable among affluent fashion-conscious Englishmen in 1822 when King George IV wore a kilt during a visit to Scotand. The fashion conscious suddenly wanted to wear a kilt also. It is unclear how this trend affected boys. It is likely that this fashion trend included boys--at least among affluent families. Earlier the kilt was generally considered a garment for poor uncultured Scottish highlanders. English boys would not have worn a kilt earlier. The new kilt fashion was made popular for boys in the 1840s when Queen Victoria and Prince Albert began dressing the young princes in kilts. A curious dichotomy became apparent at mid-century. Kilts were worn by poor Scottish boys whose parents could not afford trousers and rich Scottish AND perhaps by English boys as a fashion statement by their parents, especially after Victoria began dressing the princes in kilts. The kilt became extremely fashionable for boys in the mid-19th Century. Poetry and novels increasingly made the plaid a fashion experiment for the elite of English society. Queen Victorian and her descendents began to dress the young princes in kilts, a tradition which continued until Charles' sons William and Harry who dislikde wearing them. The Queen's choice of the kilt made it acceptable in England and eventually an offshoot, the kilt suit in America. The kilt was not adopted as specifically boys wear until the Queen began dressing the princes in kilts in the 1840s. It is clear that kilts in Scotland and even England were a popular outfit for fashionable boys clothes. It is less clear to what extent the kilt was worn by boys for day to day wear. Also HBC is not sure how kilt wearing varied among different economic classes. Even Scottish contributors to HBC are unclear about the prevelence of kilts at mid-century. Some sources suggest that Scottish boys were commonly wearing kilts by the 19th century. Definitive information, however, is not available. It appears that kilts were worn by fashionally dressed boys. It also appears many poor boys also wore simple kilts. I do not believe this was a national statement, but rather reflected the cost of trousers. Only in the late-19th Century as the price of trousers began to decline in real terms did the wearing of the kilt begin to disappear in Scotland among poor children. We believe at mid-century the kilt may have been more common among boys than their fathers, but I am unable at this time to confirm this from historical sources. The industrial revolution enabled the precise manufacturing and replication made possible by machinery, allowed the mass reproduction of the plaid. Many of the poor boys wearing kilts, however, wore cheap cloth kilts rather than more expensive tartans. It is unclear if Scottish boys were wearing kilts to go to school or for play and work. It appears that the kilt in Scotland during the 19th Century was primarily worn for dress occaions by middle class and wealthy boys for dressing up, such as church, parties, weddings and other formal occasions. I'm unsure how the kilt was worn by poorer and middle-class boys. Victoria's grandchildren, for example, wore kilts for casual wear while in Scotland. Available photographic images available from the mid 19th Century onward provides a somewhat better idea of the extent of kilt usage in Scotland and just who was wearing kilts. One Scottish HBC contributor reports that kilt wearing by boys in Scotland began to spread from the affluent and middle class to urban or non-Highland "respectable" (more affluent) working class in the 1880s, although HBC can not yet substaniate this.

Decade Trends

We are not sure precisely how common it was for Scottish boys to wear kilts in the early-19th Century. The harsh measures against Scotland had been largely rescinded by the tun of-the 19th century. The Scottish literary revival beginning ikn the late-18th century was certainly a factor in changing the image of all things Scottish. Poetry and novels increasingly made the plaid a fashion experiment for the elite of English society.We have not been able to dtermine if or to what extent the kilt increased in popularity during the early-19th century, but we know that kilts were worn in the Higlands. The performance of Scottish regiments wearing kilts in the Napoleonic Wars was another factor in popularizing the kilt. What is not clear to us is just who in Scotland was wearing the kilts and for what occasions. It is clear that tartan suddently became fashionable among affluent fashion-conscious Englishmen 1822 when King George IV wore a kilt during a visit to Scotand (1832). The fashion conscious suddenly wanted to wear a kilt also. It is unclear how this trend affected boys. Earlier the kilt was generally considered a garment for poor uncultured Scottish highlanders. English boys would not have worn a kilt earlier. The new kilt fashion was made popular for boys in the 1840s when Queen Victoria and Prince Albert began dressing the young princes in kilts. Queen Victorian and her descendents began to dress the young princes in kilts, a tradition which continued until Charles' sons William and Harry who disliked wearing them. The Queen's choice of the kilt made it acceptable in England and eventually an offshoot, the kilt suit in America. The kilt was not adopted as specifically boys wear until the Queen began dressing the princes in kilts in the 1840s. Only in the late 19th Century as the price of trousers began to decline in real terms did the wearing of the kilt begin to disappear in Scotland among poor children. I believe at mid-century the kilt may have been more common among boys than their fathers, but I am unable at this time to confirm this from historical sources. The industrial revolution enabled the precise manufacturing and replication made possible by machinery, allowed the mass reproduction of the plaid. Many of the poor boys wearing kilts, however, wore cheap cloth kilts rather than more expensive tartans. It is unclear if Scottish boys were wearing kilts to go to school or for play and work. It appears that the kilt in Scotland during the 19th Century was primarily worn for dress occaions by middle class and wealthy boys for dressing up, such as church, parties, weddings and other formal occasions. I'm unsure how the kilt was worn by poorer and middle-class boys. Victoria's grandchildren, for example, wore kilts for casual wear while in Scotland. Available photographic images available from the mid 19th Century onward provides a somewhat better idea of the extent of kilt usage in Scotland and just who was wearing kilts. One Scottish HBC contributor reports that kilt wearing by boys in Scotland began to spread from the affluent and middle class to urban or non-Highland "respectable" (more affluent) working class in the 1880s, although HBC can not yet substaniate this.

The Scottish Literary Revival (late-18th -- early-19th century)

Scotland in the 18th century has been described as a hybrid country. It was dived north and south of a line drawn roughly between the two great cities of Glasgow and Edinburgh. The line was geographic, but the division was cultural. The decidedly Celtic Highlands differed greatly from the English-oriented Lowlands. Scotland had lost its royal dynasty (1603) and Parliament (1707). While Scotland no longer had a monarchy, it still had members of parliament. Only they sat in Eestminister and were a small minority. The dream of political ondependenced died at Culloden and severe represion followed. The subsequent Scottish revival was a literarty revival led by poets, especially Robert Burns (1759-96). Burns became a national cultural icon not only in Scotland and among the Scottish diaspora throughout the around the world. The Celebration Burn's poetry became a virtual national charismatic cult. Walter Scott (1771-1832) added popular romantic novels. They helped transform the image of Scotland. A young princess was entralled with both the poetry and romantic novels. Upon becoming queen, Victoria would develop a special relationship with Scotland. Prince Alkbert built her ab estate in Balmoral where the royal family woild retire to annually to spend part of yher summer. And the kilt rather than being a despised symbol of Scottish beligerence, became an important style for the British princes as well as fashionble for other English boys.

Extent

Some sources suggest that Scottish boys were commonly wearing kilts by the 19th century. Definitive information, however, is not available. The kilt was mostly worn in the Higland, esoecially in rural areas. Dress in the Lowlands was essentially the same as in Engalnd to the south. We believe that kilts were much more commonly worn by Scottish boys in rural areas during this era, especially boys from poor families. This was probably more of an economic matter as a kilt was a less expensive garment than trousers. More affluent boys in urban aras might, like their fathers, have a dress kilt for formal occasions. Evidence on the prevalence of 19th century boys to wear the kilt is scanty at best

Social Class

It appears that kilts were worn by fashionally dressed boys. It also appears many poor boys also wore simple kilts. It is clear that tartan suddently became fashionable among affluent fashion-conscious Englishmen when King George IV wore a kilt during a visit to Scotand (1832). The fashion conscious suddenly wanted to wear a kilt also. It is unclear how this trend at first affected boys. It is likely that this fashion trend included boys--at least among affluent families. Earlier the kilt was generally considered a garment for poor uncultured Scottish highlanders. English boys would not have worn a kilt earlier. The new kilt fashion was made popular for boys in the 1840s when Queen Victoria and Prince Albert began dressing the young princes in kilts. A curious dichotomy became apparent at mid-century. Kilts were worn by poor Scottish boys whose parents could not afford trousers and rich Scottish AND perhaps by English boys as a fashion statement by their parents, especially after Victoria began dressing the princes in kilts. The kilt became extremely fashionable for boys in the mid-19th Century. One Scottish HBC contributor reports that kilt wearing by boys in Scotland began to spread from the affluent and middle class to urban or non-Highland 'respectable' (more affluent) working class in the 1880s, although HBC can not yet substaniate this in oart brcause of the cacrity of 19th century Scottish photographs. It is clear that kilts in Scotland and even England were a popular outfit for fashionable boys clothes. It is less clear to what extent the kilt was worn by boys for day to day wear. Also HBC is not sure how kilt wearing varied among different economic classes. Even Scottish contributors to HBC are unclear about the prevelence of kilts at mid-century. Some sources suggest that Scottish boys were commonly wearing kilts by the 19th century. Definitive information, however, is not available.

Economics

We do not believe that the poor boys wearing kilts were making a national statement, but rather reflected the cost of trousers. Only in the late 19th Century as the price of trousers began to decline in real terms did the wearing of the kilt begin to disappear in Scotland among poor children. Hard-working parents were willing to splurge on costumes for their offspring (providing they did not have too many). The kilts were incredibly hard wearing and could fit suceeding children as they grew up. Incidentally, kilts do not seem to have been cleaned. It appears that kilts were worn by fashionally dressed boys. It also appears many poor boys also wore simple kilts. We do not believe this was a national statement, but rather reflected the cost of trousers.

Age Trends

We believe at mid-century the kilt may have been more common among boys than their fathers, but I am unable at this time to confirm this from historical sources. The industrial revolution enabled the precise manufacturing and replication made possible by machinery, allowed the mass reproduction of the plaid. Many of the poor boys wearing kilts, however, wore cheap cloth kilts rather than more expensive tartans.

Conventions

It is unclear if Scottish boys were wearing kilts to go to school or for play and work. It appears that the kilt in Scotland during the 19th Century was primarily worn for dress occaions by middle class and wealthy boys for dressing up, such as church, parties, weddings and other formal occasions. I'm unsure how the kilt was worn by poorer and middle-class boys. Victoria's grandchildren, for example, wore kilts for casual wear while in Scotland.

Photographic Evidence

Available photographic images available from the mid 19th Century onward provides a somewhat better idea of the extent of kilt usage in Scotland and just who was wearing kilts. HBC has, however, so far been able to acquire few 19th century images.

Highland Games

Highland Games were very popular throughout Scotland and boys began to take up competitive Highland dancing. (Unlike modern Highland Games, girls did not dominate the dancing competitions.) Elaborate costumes of tartan, velvet, and lace were habitually worn.

Kilt Suits

HBC notes that so-called kilt suits became a very common style for young American boys in the late-19th century. The name was a misnomer as they were more like skirted suits, but they were called kilt suits and many younger boys wore them rather than dresses. HBC is unsure to what extent this was an American style. We do not know to what extent these kilt suits were worn in Scotland and England.







HBC






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Created: January 16, 2002
Last updated: 1:58 AM 9/11/2021