Scottish styling is a curious mixture of rel history, pure fiction, and comtemporary fashions. We see this most obviously in the Highland dance costumes which change over time, affectd by utility and a desire to look Scottish rather than insist on actual historical fashion. Often this was pure invention, nut it was destinctive and unmistakingly Scottish. [Reid] And beginning with Queen Victoria's romantic embrace with all things Scottish. In particular it was the Quen who took Scottish styles from adult fashion to popular boys' fashions. Scottish styles were developed for children from head to toe. And once the Queen popularized Scottish fashions, the fashion industry began to work with the basic Scottish styles to create inventive variations, the most important became the kilt suit, a garment that provd especially poplar in America. The most enduring Scottish style became the plaid skirt, which was adopted for school wear for girls, both in schools with uniforms qnd where girls wore their own clothes.
Scottish children wore a wide variety of headwear. Only two were destibctly Scottish and called binnets--the Balmoral and Glengary. They were mostly for boys and worn with Scottish outfits.
The Balmoral bonnet is one of the two principal types of Higland headwear. We do not yet have any history on the Balmoral. We do not know to what extent it was related to Queen Victoria anf her castle in Scotland. In Scotland the term "bonnet" is used for men's and boys' headwear and not the usual English sence as headwear for women and children enveloping the hair and tied in place with strings. The other principal Highland headwear is the Glengarry bonnet. Tartan Balmorals, like tartan bow ties, should never be worn with a kilt. Of course thaere were really no established rules for the headwear worn by boys dressed in late 19th century kilt suits. The Balmoral, unlike the Glengarry, is of ancient heritage. It is the old broad bonnet common to Highlands and Lowlands for many centuries. It may be black, blue, or fawn, with or without diced band, and may have loose flowing ribbons behind, or a knotted bow. The Balmoral bonnet should not be wiorn with the ribbons trailing behind, rather they should be worn at the centre of the back. The average person should not wear eagle feathers in his bonnet. The use of feathers is strictly limited to those whose right to wear them has been established by the Lord Lyon of Scotland. The Balmoral is similar to a Tam O'Shanter. We have noted some caps that appear similar to Balmorals, but do not have floppy beret like tops and instead flat tops. We are not sure what to call this style.
The Glengarry bonnet is a blue woolen cap creased through the crown, like today's overseas cap. The Glengarry bonnet is a Highland Scotch cap for men and boys. It has straight almost vertical straight sides and a crease or hollow top sloping to the back, where it is parted and held together by ribbons or strings. It is normally worn with long silk streamers. It is commonly worn by Highlanders as part of military dress or pipe band uniforms. One report suggests that it first appeared in 1805 in Glengarry, Invernesshire, Scotland, but their are various accounts as to its creation. The cap has stiff sides and bound edges, finished with short ribbons hanging in back. The cap is of course associated with Scotland and worn with Highland kilt outfits. We have also noted boys in America, England, and France wearing them starting in the 19th century. Presumably they were also worn in Australia, Canada, New Zealand, and other British colonies. American boys would wear them with other outfits besides kilts, but they were popular with kiltsuits. The cap was commonly worn throughout the second half of the 19th century, but in the 20th century appears to have been motly worn in Scotland or by boys in Highland garb for special occassions. The Glengarry bonnet is still worn today, primarily as part of ceremonial uniforms like pipe bands.
Two types of jackets were wirn with the kilt when dresing up. They were the black military jacket andthe short tweed jacket. The bkack military jacket was genrally the one worn ith formal Highland outfits. The tweed jacket was a poplar style for Scittish schools.
The kilt is a knee-length skirt-like garment tarditionally worn by men and boys. The kilt as we know it today has ancient origins. It is generally associated today with Scotland or the Gaelic peoples of the British Isles and Normandy, however it has been worn in other countries as well. The kilt became so associated with Scottish naltiinalism that the English prohibited it for a time. The kilts use as a style of boys' clothing is much more recent in origin. The Higland kilt is simply a skirt, but younger boys might wear bodice kilts. A much more limited kilt-like garment was the kilt suit. This was kilt worn by small boys with matching jacket and skirt which as popular in America during the late 19th century. Today the kilt is primarily worn at ethnic celebrations and at Gaelic dancing competitions, but it is also worn for Scouting and formal events such as weddings.
Once Queen Vctoria popularized Scottish fashions, the fashion industry began to work with the basic Scottish styles to create inventive variations, the most important became the kilt suit, a garment that provd especially poplar in America. The kilt suit was a suit jacket worn with a skirted garment. Some were worn with kilt-like garmnts, but often they were worn by what were essentially a skirt. It was in America tht the kilt suit bcame a very common garment abd few American mothers had any idea about the differnce between the kilt and a basic skirt. The Scottish or Highland kilt was never extensively worn by American boys, despite the sizeable number of Scottish Americans. we noice a few boys from wealthy families done up in Highland kilts, but this was not very common. A related garment, however, the kilt suit, was very commonly worn by two generations of American boys. It was one of the most popular outfits for younger boys. We notice quite a range of different styles. They were often worn with vests. I believe that the style was also widely worn in England and to a lesser extent in France. Its popularity in Germany and other continental countries, however, appears more limited, although admittedly I have little information on these countries.
Scottish style dresses were plaid dresses done in various styles. They wre done for both girls and younger boys. Oldervboys wore kilts. Plaid dresses were popular for boys we think in part because of the association with kilt which was a male garment. This parently gave it more of a boyish look. A good example is Edwin Crawshay, an English boy in 1864.
The plaid skirt is a simpligied kilt. The most enduring Scottish style became the plaid skirt, which was adopted for school wear for girls, both in schools with uniforms qnd where girls wore their own clothes.
Reid, Stuart. Scottish National Dress and Tartan.
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