* boys' suits chronology 1860s boys' suits chronology 1860s








Boys' Suits: Chronology--The 1860s


Figure 1.--We note suits in the 1860s that look much more modern than early 19th century suits. The jackets or coats are longer. The suits more commonly are made of matching material and colors instead of the contrasting convention that was common in the 1860s. This CDV was taken by F. Wheeler, Wilcox Block, West Meriden, Connecticut. It is undated, but it looks like the mid-1860s to us.

We note suits in the 1860s that look much more modern than early 19th century suits. The jackets or coats are longer. The suits more commonly are made of matching material and colors instead of the contrasting convention that was common in the 1860s. There were a variety of juvenile-styled suits made with short cut-away jackets and bloomer knickers. Many of these styles were similar to those worn in the 184s and 50s. We notice older boys boys wearing long pants suits. These were suits with more mature stylying, largely with jacket and pants in the same style and color. Jackets were single breasted. Even quite young boys wore long pants suits. We notice some boys wearing pants with legs that were above the shoes. We are not sure to what extent this reflected a boy growing out of his pants or the waythe suit was styled. By the late 1860s, we begin to see more boys wearing kneepants, although they were usually cut well below the knee.

Styling

We note suits in the 1860s that look much more modern than early 19th century suits. There were still destinctive styling for younger boys. We also notice both collar butooning suits and suits with lapels.

Basic Styles

We notice several basic styles of suits for boys. There were a variety of juvenile-styled suits made with short cut-away jackets and bloomer knickers. Many of these styles were similar to those worn in the 1850s and could be quite fanciful. Jackets for younger boys often had fancy embroidery, but usually in muted dark colors. These fancy jackets could be in a variety of styes. The most common was a cut-away style which only one closure near the collar. We also note some plainer styles. These collar-buttoning jackers had a military look. The suits more commonly are made of matching material and colors instead of the contrasting convention that was common in the 1840s and 1850s. These jackes were cut shorter than yje jackets commonly wore by men, giving the short jacket a juvenile look. Many of the jackets, especially the plainer ones, have a distinctly modern look. This is a major departure from the styles prevalent in the first half of the century. We notice suits with the traditional "V" front and lapels. The suit the American boy seen here is wearing is a good example (figure 1). They were cut somewhat longer than the collar-buttoning jackets. These were suits with more mature stylying, largely with jacket and pants in the same style and color. Jackets were single breasted. These jackets looked more like adult jackets and did not hjave the fancy embroidery often found on the fancy juveile styles. Suits were now made for boys in muted fabrics and colors like their fathers. American styles for these suits tended to follow fashion set in England.

Pants

Very young boys after breeching might wear bloomer knickers with fancy suits. Most boys wore long pants suits. Even quite young boys wore long pants suits. While most images we note show boys wearing long pants with suits, we do note some boys wearing kneepants--usually cut quite long at calf-level. We also notice some boys wearing pants with legs that were above the shoes. We are not sure to what extent this reflected a boy growing out of his pants or the waythe suit was styled. By the late 1860s, we begin to see more boys wearing kneepants, although they were usually cut well below the knee.






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Created: 12:16 AM 9/10/2004
Last updated: 12:20 AM 3/3/2008