Boys' Suits: Chronology--The 20th Century


Figure 1.-- American boys in the 1900s, like this boy from Massillion, Ohio generally wore kneepants suits. This include many teenagers. They were generallyworn with black long stockinfs.

Boys by the turn of the 20th century commonly wore kneepants or knickers suits--even older boys. Here social class and regional trend patterns were significant. Norfolk suits were very popular in the 1910s. Knickers became increasingly popular in America, kargely replacing kneepants. The process was a little different in Europe where short pants became more common than knickers. Gradually it became less common for boys to wear suits. This can be observed in the 1920s, but was much more apparent by the 1930s. This can be observed in schoolwear. Many boys wore suits to school before World War I, but after the War in the 1920s, suits gradually became less common. This was at first observeable in primary schools, but even in econdary schools by the 1930s. After World War II, American boys boys begn wearing mostly long pants suits. The same pattern occurred in Europe, but somewhat later. The pattern is often not easily observeable because boys were wearing suits less and less. Many boys only wore suits for formal occassions and some boys did not even have suits. A blazer and slacks became a casual alternative to a suit. The school blazer became standard schoolwear in Britain during the early 20th century, at first in private schools. This style was adopted by American boys, although not for school wear. It became a part of the preppy look in the 1950s and has since been a boy's standard.

The 1900s

The Europeans began the 20th century with increasingly prosperous economies and enormous ootimism. The sucess of Europe and stability of nearly a century without a major war created great certainty. It also reinforced the prevailing social standards. And this mean rather formal social cinventiins and dress. There was the beginning of a trend toward informality and casual wear which can be seen in the outfits for very young children--sych as tinic suits. For the most part, however, formality prevailed. Suits continued to be very important for boys in the 1900s. Even younger boys commonly wore syuts to school. Boys by the turn of the 20th century commonly wore kneepants or knickers suits--even older boys. Here social class and regional trend patterns were significant.


Figure 2.-- School-age German boys in the 1910s mostly wore knee pants suits in contrast to American boys who mistly wore knicker suits. Pre-school boys wore a variety of juvenile-styled outfits.

The 1910s

Considerable formality was still associayed with fashion in the early 1910s. Boys wore both single and double-breasted suit jackets during the 1920s. Norfolk suits were very popular in the 1910s. Knickers became increasingly popular in America, largely replacing kneepants. Knee pants continued to be worn in Europe and they began to shift towards short pants--although they were still quite long. Baden Powell's short pants seems to have been a factor here. We are not sure why this difference developed. Climate seems to have been a factor, but we think more was involved. Throughout the 19th century there was considerable similarity between America and Europe, in part because Europe, especially England, largely was the origin of fashion trends which Americans followed. Of course the 1910s was a decade dominated by the disaster of World War I (1914-18). It engulphed allmost all of Europe and eventually America. Even those countries that remained neutral were affected Europe except for Spain and the Scandinavians. Dress standards had to decline as even fabric became a scarce national resource. The result was a utilitarian trend which had been largely ignored in Europe for decdes. It was a factor in the trend toward casual wear that had already begun before the War.


Figure 3.-- We see boys wearing both single- and double-breasted suit jackets in the 1920s. This is an American boy, but the sane trend was also true in Europe.

The 1920s

Suits were still fairly common in the 1920s, both in Europe and America. Boys still often wore them to school, depending on the country. Boys wore both single and double-breasted suit jackets during the 1920s. Eton suits or at least suits worn with Eton collars rapidly declined in popularity. Jacket styles tended to be similar in both American and Europe. For reasons we do not fully understand, the trousers boys wore with suits varied substantially. English fashions were an important influence on America, but fir some reason the boys trousers varied substantially. Here the preferences of the boys themselves seems to have been an important factor. American boys generally wore knicker suits. European boys wore knee pants suits which gradually evolved into short pants suits. We note that for formal occassions boys from comfortable families might have a formal suit with knee pants. This varied somewhat from country to country. Juvenile Eton suits appeared in America during the 1920s. I'm less sure about other countries. These were suits which had jackets without lapels which Americans called Eton suits. There were both summer and winter versions. The pants were often suspender shorts. They often had matching peaked caps. Gradually it became less common for boys to wear suits. This can be observed in the 1920s. There were some destinctive country trends. England had, for example, many private schools which required school uniforms. This affected suit styling. Many of these schools used blazers rather than suits. State schools did not require uniforms, but uniform styles at the private schools affected what boys in state schools wore.


Figure 4.--While American boys in the 1930s mostly wore knicker suits, European boys like this English boy commonly wore short pants suits. Notice the blazer styling of the jacket.

The 1930s

We still see both single- and double-breasted jackets in the 1930s, although the single-breasted style was begining to becomne more popular. Norfolk styling seems to have gone out of fashion. The trend toward casual clothing was even more observeable in the 1930s. This can be observed in schoolwear. Many boys wore suits to school before World War I, but after the War in the 1920s, suits gradually became less common. This was at first observeable in primary schools, but even in econdary schools by the 1930s. This varied from country to country. British boys still commonly wore suits to school. This was less true in Germany. We think one factor may have been the Hitler Youth. As the program grew after the NAZI takeover (1933), the uniform became an increasingly important part of a boy's wardrobe. Other countries had smocks for the younger boy. Knicker suits continue to be popular in America during the 1930s, but we begin to see more boys wearing long pants suits. This was particularly true of teenagers, but we see younger boys wearing long pants suits as well. Boys in Europe mostly wore short pants suits. This was almost universal for primary-age boys and even younger teenagers. Oolder teens might wear wore knicker suits. This might vary widely from family to family.


Figure 5.--Most American boys wore long pants suits in the 1940s, but some younger boys wore short pants suits. The Eton suit was a populr style. Euripean boys still wore mostly short pants suits. This photograph was taken in 1941.

The 1940s

Fashion was sidelined during World War II. After the War we note a variety of developments, many begun before the War. Jackets for men often had padded shoulders, but this was not common for boys. Lapels were often quite broad. Sports jackets became popular in America. We see this less commonly in Europe. American boys boys begn wearing mostly long pants suits.We see many two-tone jackets, many that they were made with two contrasting materials. This was a popular style for boys, teenagers, and young adults. Younger boys might wear short pants suits. The Eton suit was a popular style for these younger boys. The short pants suits were somewhat more common in affluent familirs. The same pattern occurred in Europe, but somewhat later. The pattern is often not easily observeable because boys were wearing suits less and less.

The 1950s

Fewer American boys wore short pants suits in the 1950s, but they were still worn in Europe. A blazer and slacks became a casual alternative to a suit. The school blazer became standard schoolwear in Britain during the early 20th century, at first in private schools. This style was adopted by American boys, although not for school wear. It became a part of the preppy look in the 1950s and has since been a boy's standard.

The 1960s

Suit jackets wuth narrow lapels were stylish. We begin to see more European boys wearing long pants suits in the 1960s. By the end of the decade, short pants suits wee not even cimmonly available. Bristisg boys, hwever, might wear short pamts auits or blazers with short oants as part of a school uniform. Some younger American boys still wore short pants suits, but most boys had log pants suits--even younger boys. Fashion continued to be increasingly casual and we see fewerboys wearing suits in the 1960s.

The 1970s

Many boys only wore suits for formal occassions and some boys did not even have suits.






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Created: 2:23 AM 1/27/2008
Last updated: 2:23 AM 1/27/2008