Figure 1.--Here we see an American boy wearing a cut-away jacket with a classic Fauntleroy suit. The small cut-away jacket showed off the fancy Fauntleroy suit to best affect. In some cases the blouses almost enveloped the jackets. This portrait is undated, but we believe was taken in the early 1900s, based on the mount and length of the kneepants. A HBC reader believes that it was taken in Toronto, Canada.

We first notice cut-away jackets being worn with a variety of fancy suits for little boys during the mid-19th century. I am not yet sure just what the suits were called at the time or the best term for them today. The most destinctive feature, however, was the cut-away jacket. These suits were done in a variety of styles. One popular style was the Zouve suit. Francis Hodgson Burnett, an English-born American, helped popularize a style of dress for boys that proved exceedingly popular among romantically inclined, doting mothers. The author modelled her famous fictional creation, Cedric Erol, after her own son, Vivian, and thereby condemned a generation of "manly little chaps" in America and Britain to elaborate, picturesque outfits. Cut-away jackets are perhaps best known as the jacket worn with the classic Fauntleroy suit.

Zouave Suits

The Zouave uniform is one of the modst destinctive uniform worn in modern times. The name derives from the Zouaoua, a Berber tribe found in the mountains of the North African Jurjura range. The French in the process of colonizing Algeria raised the first battalion of Zouaves informally (1831) and latter recognized by the royal governmrent (1833). The first Zouaves were raised from the Zouaoua. As a result the uniforms reflected the native dress. Subsequently the Zouaves became a Force of French soldiers recruited from Algerian settlers. The units. however, retained the destinctive native-styled uniforms. The reputation of the French Zouaves resulted in the formatioin of volunteer Zouave units during the Amerucan Civil War (1861). The distinctive dress and dash of the Zouaves made them well known outside France and they were frequently portrayed in the illustrated publications of the period. Thus the exploits of the Zouaves were widely reported and their colorful uniform widely recognized. Miitary uniforms often influence both mens' and children's clothes. We Note that by the 1850s that cut-away jackets and bloomer knickers had become a basic fashion style for boys. We are not positive, but the French Zouave uniform may have been the primary fashion inspiration for this new style of boy's suit.

Plain Cut-away Suit

We see large numbers of boys wearing cut-away jackes uin the 1860s and 70s. Most of these jackets were plain or limited amounts of emroidery or other styling. Heavily styled jackets might be more properlu called Zouave jackets, although here color is a factor. We see these jackets as late as the early 1890s. They were wideky worn in both Europe ad America.

Fautleroy Suits

Francis Hodgson Burnett, an English-born American, helped popularize a style of dress for boys that proved exceedingly popular among romantically inclined, doting mothers. The author modelled her famous fictional creation, Cedric Erol, after her own son, Vivian, and thereby condemned a generation of "manly little chaps" in America and Britain to elaborate, picturesque outfits. The actual description of Cedie's suits were rather brief in her book, Little Lord Faunytleroy. Perhaps even more influential than her text in popularizing the style were the lavishly detailed drawnings by Reginald Birch, the artist who illustrated Mrs. Benett's story. Whether it was the book or the illustrations, combined they were responsible for an enduring vogue of boy's clothes in the romantic style of the Cavalier/Restoration or Van Dyck Period worn by the young American hero of the story.

Bolero Jacket

The bolero jacket was more od a woman's style. It might be worn with no connection, even at the collar. Some Fauntleroy jackets might thus be more properky called bolero jackets.

Mock Cut-away Jackets

The cut-away jacket was one of the molst popular styles for younger boys over several decades. It is perhaps, thus not particularly surprising that mock cut-away jackets appeared. We noticed a few examples of jackets made to lookm like cut-away jackets with vests (waistcosts). We are not entirely sure why this was done. The only thing we can think of is that such a jacket would cheaper than an actual cut-away jacket and waistcoat. This is, however, only a guess and such outfits are extremekly rare.

Fancy Suits

Boys at the mid-19th century wore a variety of fancy suit styles. Some had cut-away jackets, but there were also other jackets done with fancy styling. Today the suit styles worn by boys are fairly standard. Many fancy styles appeared at mid-century and HBC has little idea as to what they were called. In many cases they may have been the inspiration of single seamstresses or mothers and were not worn in large quantities. The fanciest style was of course the famed Fautleroy suit, but many other fanncy cstykles were worn in the 1850s-80s. By the 1890s the styles of boys suits had become more standardized.