American Middy Blouse Elements: Collars

boys middy blouse
Figure 1.--There were several elements or parts to a middy blouse and other shirt-like sailor garments. The single most important was the destinctive "V"-front collar. These collars varied in size, but generally dominated the front of the garment. They were most commonly detailed with stripes. Color was also sometimesused like this boy's collar, probably done in a lighter shade of blue. The scarfe might be red. This portrait is undated, but looks like the mid-1920s to us.

There were several elements or parts to a middy blouse and other shirt-like sailor garments. The single most important was the destinctive "V"-front collar. These collars varied in size, but generally dominated the front of the garment. They were most commonly detailed with stripes. This usually was three stripes like actual sailor uniforms, but this could vary. There were also some blouses which were plain without the stripe detailing. It is the stripe detailing, hosever, which is most associated with the middy blouse andcsailor suits in general. Color was also used in the detailing of the collar. The V-front collar was basically a pull-over style. It was so important, however, that it was also used in the buttoning version of the middy blouse. Sailor styling from the collar was often repeated in these elements. This normally was stripes, but we see other detailing and many middy blouses had no detailing at all. The V-collar night also have contrasting colors. Less commonly we see more ordinary collars. We also note standard collars, even on Navy unifirms, but the V-collar was the standard for enlisted men (ratings) and thus following the standard set by the British Royal family is the style most commonly used for boys' outfits. Thus the best known was the "V"-front sailor collar. The sailor suit was in part popular because it was a comfortable open collar, although a dickey could be added. Some mothers were not satisfied with this and added detachable collars.

Collar Types

There were several elements or parts to a middy blouse and other shirt-like sailor garments. The single most important was of course the collar. The destinctive "V"-front collar was a fashion staple for boys for many years and also for girls. This was a style adopted by the British Royal Navy and because of its importance adopted by nvies around the world, including the American Navy and European navies. We see countless portraits of boys wearing V'-front sailor blouses and jackets. Mail order catalogs have whole pages devoted to these V-front sailor outfits. Few styles have been more popular for children. Less commonly we see more ordinary collars ponted collars. We also note these standard collars, even on Navy unifirms, but the V-collar was by far the standard for enlisted men (ratings) and thus following the standard set by the British Royal family is the style most commonly used for boys' outfits. Thus the best known was the "V"-front sailor collar.

Size

These collars varied in size, but generally dominated the front of the garment. The standard was the same proportions as those of naval uniforms.

Detailing

There were many stylistic variations on the basic V-collar, especially different detailing. The "V" front collars were most commonly detailed with stripes. This usually was three stripes like actual sailor uniforms, but this could vary. There were also some blouses which were plain without the stripe detailing. It is the stripe detailing, hosever, which is most assiciated with the middy blouse andcsailor suits in general. Color was also used in the detailing of the collar. The V-front collar was basically a pull-over style. It was so important, however, that it was also used in the buttoning version of the middy blouse. Sailor styling from the collar was often repeated on the sleeve cuff and back flap and some times even a pocket. The detailing normally was stripes, but we see other detailing and many middy blouses had no detailing at all.

Color

The V-collar might also have contrasting colors. Usually the "V" collar was done in the same color as the blouse, but we note blouses with collars dome in contrasting colors. Here a lighter shade of blue or even red were possible choices.

Decorative Additions

Some mothers decided to add decuative touches to sailor collars. We see this more in Europe than America, but we have found a few Ameriacan examples as well. We note American boys in the 1860s with various small collars peeking out from collar-buttoning jackets. The collars included ruffled and Eton collars among other styles. Sailor suits were, however very rare in America during the 60s. We begin to see more sailor outfits in the 1870s and some mother continued the practice of having fancy collars peek out even with sailor suits. The whole idea of sailor suits of course was a smart, but realtively simple dress for boys. Some mothers could not help but add some decorative touches to their sons' sailor suits. Thevmost popular touch here was to add a narriow band of ruffles, presumably attached to a shirt-waist wirn under the sailir blouse. We ahve only a few examples of this from undated cabinet cards. We believe this occurred mostly in the 1879s, but have not yet been able to confirm this with dated portraits.

Dickies

The sailor suit was in part popular because it was a comfortable open collar. Many middy blouses came with removable collars. Some wee permanent, but most were removeable. The blouse was worn without the duckey in warm summer weather. It could be replaced during cooler weather and for formal occassions. These dickies varies in style and color. They also varied in restrictiveness. Some were setwell below the boy's neck. Others were much more restrive, surround the neck. The detailing of the dickey varies. Often it was identical or coordinated with the detailing of the blouse. Colors also could vary.

Added Formal Detachable Collars

Some mothers were not at all satisfied with the informal look of an open sailor collar, even with a dickey added. The sailor suit was popular during the late 19th abd early 20th century when formality in dress was an established fashion statement, even for children. While these mothers liked sailor suits and the style was very popular, it was just not formal enough. To rectify this mothers in some cases added a formal collar. This was especially common in the late 19th century. Actually we see it more commonly in Europe, particulsarly Germany. We see occasional examples in America. We note various types of detacable collars being added. The Eton collar and wing collar were ones we have noted. Some of these added collars, especially the Eton collars could be quite large.






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Created: 5:02 AM 1/28/2008
Last updated: 9:42 PM 11/25/2013