Corsets


Figure 1.--

A corset is a close-fitting undergarment. The word appears to have originated from light-weight medieval armor. The destinguising feature of a corset is that it has been stiffened with a variety of materials, especially whale bone (baleen). Other materails including steel have been used for the stays. Corserts had lacing to adjust the fit. The corset is similar in some regards to posture control devices, but the purpose is essentially different. The principal purpose of a corset was to shape and support the figure, especially the waistline. As a result, the corset was primarily a garment for adult women, but they were often worn bt girls as well. Some sources mention children, but here we believe that they are primarily referring to girls. We note references to both "corsets" and "corset waists" in late 19th and early 20th century magazines and catalogs. Several companies made these garments. One particularly important company is Ferris Brothers.

Terminology

The word appears to have originated from light-weight medieval armor.

Construction

A corset is a close-fitting undergarment. The destinguising feature of a corset is that it has been stiffened with a variety of materials, especially whale bone (baleen). Other materails including steel have been used for the stays. Corserts had lacing to adjust the fit.

Chronology

Corsets were widely worn in the 19th century and very early 20th century. The purpose was to help women achieve a slender waist. The turning point in fashion appears to have come about 1910. It was by this time that Paul Poiret who had become the arbiter of French fashion and achieved a considerable popularity in Britain. He became known for the suggestive clingy dress. A rather different outfit was the controversial hobble skirt which Poiret also designed. Poiret proclaimed "in the name of liberty" the demise of the corset which was to be replaced with the brassière. Here there were a variety of factors involved. Some medical specialists had addressed the health aspects. Comfort must have been another factor. One historian describes another factor that may well have been important. Illicit lovers often had only limited time for their furitive asignations. The author writes, "Poiret well knew that in an era of the elaborately laced corset, 'undressing a womanis an undertaking similar to the capture of a fortress.'" [Nicolson]

Posture Control Devices

The corset is similar in some regards to posture control devices, but the purpose is essentially different. These posture control devices were garments more likely to be worn by children. Physicians believe that from early childhood steps should be taken to incourage correct posture to prevent adult back problems. We have noted doctors expressing concerns over posture in the 19th century, althjough often without real insights into the underlying medical science. We have noted a variety of posture corrective devices in 19th century publications. Some seem rather extreme. Some 19th century doctors and parents were very concerned about posture and willing to take aggressive steps to force children to develop better posture. This continued in a less aggressive manner into the early 20th century. The garter waists and other stocking supporters advertised during the early 20th century often referred to benefits related to posture. Parents today in most cases seem less willing to intervene to improve threir children's posture with the exception of occassional mild oral comments. Here there may be some differences among countries. We note that posture correcting devices are still used in Japan.

Purpose

The principal purpose of a corset was to shape and support the figure, especially the waistline.

Gender

Because the corset was orimarily afigure control device, it was primarily a garment for adult women. They were, howevr, worn bt girls as well, especially older girls. Some sources mention children, but here we believe that they are primarily referring to girls.

Corset Waists

We note references to both "corsets" and "corset waists" in late 19th and early 20th century magazines and catalogs. As far as we can gell, a corset waist was not acorset, but one of the terms used for children's underwaists.

Manufacturers

Several companies made these garments. One particularly important company is Ferris Brothers.

Health Concerns

The issue of restriciveness and the impact on health was a major concern associated with corsets. Concerning children it was more commonly addressed in connectiion with stocking supporters. Many of our HBC pages on garter waists, underwaists, suspender waists, and the like have raised the question of health issues--posture correction, for instance, as well as the "restrictiveness" of supporters for long stockings. One of the most popular styles of garter waists bore the name of the "Dr. Parker waist"--supposedly because it was either designed or endorsed by a medical authority named Parker with the implication that a child's health and posture had been taken into account. The whole question here arises out of the world-wide debate about the restrictiveness of women's corsets in the 19th century and the actual deformation of women's and girls' bodies that was the result of "tight-lacing." The invention of the Liberty Bodice in England was just one of many responses to this problem. The name "Liberty" shows the connection.

Sources

Nicolson, Juliet. The Perfect Summer: England 1911, Just Before the Storm (2007), 290p.









HBC




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Created: 5:20 AM 4/2/2007
Last updated: 8:24 PM 5/6/2007