Figure 1.--Perhaps the most easily recognized films set in the late-19th century are the various Little Lord Fauntleroy suit. This is the Mary Pickford version.

Costumes are especially important in period film. Unfortunately, costumes in period films are not always that authentic. The 1949 version of The Great Gatsby starring Alan Ladd, for example, had clothes that were more late 1940s than 20s. But in the 1974 version Mia Farrow's flapper dresses were true to the 1920s period. Sometimes producers don't budget for real period costuming whichcan be quite expensive. Other times the movie stars balk and don't want to wear the period clothes designed for them because they don't think they are flattering. In 1975 Raquel Welch insisted on more provocative costumes for The Four Musketeers whereas Geraldine Chaplin allowed herself to be made up and dressed true to the period. There are often major mistakes. In the latest version of Titanic, for example. Kate Winslet's ruby-red lips were teribly inappropriate. Any young woman her age would have been banned from polite society as a "loose" woman with such makeup. Not to mention the evident mascara. Accuarte period costuming can require extensive research. Professional costuming companies have been known to undertake enormous research for authentic fabrics and trimmings of the era to use in the costumes, as well as using old homemade dyeing processes to get the exact color. The greatest effort is normally given to womens' costuming. Items may be involved that the camera never records. Actresses have often been quoted saying that wearing tight corsets and layers of petticoats in period films affects their posture and carriage and helps them to "feel" the character. Less attention is often given to children's costuming--especially boys' costuming.

Italian Costumers

Americans may not be aware of how many Italian costume designers and creators have been used by U.S.-produced films, not to mention Italian and international movies. The Italian theatrical costume houses that make the outfits are considered unequalled in the world. One of the first outfits in an Italian film to be noted abroad was the ruffled 1860s white crinoline ball gown worn by Claudia Cardinale in Luchino Visconti's masterpiece Il Gattopardo ("The Leopard") starring Burt Lancaster. Designed by Piero Tosi, it was produced in the atelier of the late Umberto Tirelli, who had often collaborated with Visconti. Tirelli's partner Dino Trapetti continues his work, supplying costumes to films and overseeing Tirelli's mammoth collection of antique costumes housed in warehouses all over Rome. For years he has been working to create a costume museum in Rome, and has hopes that the Rome city council soon will approve the final plans for the Museo del Costume at Villa Carpegna. Veteran designer Piero Tosi and Oscar winner Gabriella Pescucci ("The Age of Innocence") will oversee the restoration of the oldest garments. Plans are to change exhibits evey 3 months or so, featuring themes about films, opera, and theater. It will be the first museum of its kind in Italy. So next time you go to the flicks, remember that what's underneath may be as important as what you see!

Specific Chronological Periods

Films exist with both contemprary and historical settings which showcase fashions during those periods. Here we have not chosen necesarily the best movies. Some films which provide excellent views of contemprary fashion were in fact "B" grade movies. Of course every film has some sort of chronological seting of some sort, although some are rather difficuklt to identify. Here we are chosing only a few fims that provide especially good representations of a chronological period. The accuracy of the costuming, howerver, varies widely. Most of the films that we are familiar with are American or to a lesser extent English films. Thus are biew of these chronolgical period is primarily Anglo-American. We hope that readers from other countries will suggest films to provide us a more international coverages of these various chronological periods.

Classical period

Many films have been made with classical settings, especially Egypt, Greece, and Rome. Reflecting the importance of religion in America, quite a number of films have been made with biblical settings. Generally boys have small roles in these films. In some cases the openings scenses has children representing the major protagonists.

Medieval/Renissance

16th century

An excellent title set in the 16th century is Mark Twain's Prince and the Pauper. There have been several screen and TV versions made. As the costuming is an important part in the story line, considerable attention is normally given to the clothes that the boys wear.

17th century

No movies set in the 17th century films come to mind just now.

18th century

Many of the films we know of here are set in Britain. The various versions of Robert Luis Stevenson's Kidnapped and Treasure Island are good choices here. An excellent costume drams is the Masdness of King George, although the children have very small roles and mostly serve as backgrounf color. American films set in this period mostly focus on the Revolution and few have boys as main characters so that costuming can be seen. Two exceptions are April Morning and Johnny Tremaine?.

Early 19th century (1800-40)

Mid-19th century (1840-70)

The most well known films featuring boys costumes, at least in America, are the many versions of Mark Twain's Tom Sawyer and Huckleberry Finn.

Figure 2.--The Booth Tarkington classic, "The Magniicent Ambersons" provides a glimse at American boys clothing in the late 19th century. This boy did not think much of Georgie Amberson's Fauntleroy suit and ringlet curls.

Late-19th century (1870-1900)

The late 19th century is probably the period with the most destinctive period in the history of boys' clothing. The most famous garment is of course the Fauntleroy suit. Sailor suits, kneepants, and long stockings were even more common. Hair styles were also notable and included ringlet curls. Quite a number of films illustrate boys' clothes during this peiod. There are several versions of Little Lord Fauntleroy. Turn of the century clothes are nicely showcased in Life with Father (1947). These elaborate outfits, however, did not just appear in actual versions of Little Lord Fauntleroy, especially when a child star having an image to protect was cast in the leading role. Sausage curls, a Fauntleroy suit, and a kilt outfit are depicted in Magnificent Ambersons (1942). An excellent costume film set in England was the The Go Between (1971). Cklothes worn by a farmer's son in the west are illustrated in classic film Shane,

Early 20th century (1900-1919)

The early 20th century period is very interesting. It includes both still formal pre-World War I Edwardian clothing and the increasingly practical styles that increased in popularity during the War. An older boy in a smart sailor suit was shown in 'Death in Venice' (Italy, 1971). Another nice sailor suit was depicted in 'Fanny and Alexander' (Sweeden, 1980?). A wonderful American film about Wales is 'How Green is My Valley' (1941). Another about Scotland is 'The Green Years'. A less serious film is 'Mary Poppins'. A rather disappointing film, but with accurte 1910s costuming is 'My Brother Talks with Horses' (1947).

Inter-War Years (1920-39)

There was enormous changes in children's clothing in the inter-war period following World War I. Kneepants were replace with short pants. American boys preferred knickers. Short pants suits worn in the 1930s are nicely depicted in 'Auntie Mame' (1958). A knicker suit is worn by Scout's brother Jim in To Kill a Mockingbird (1962). There are many other examples. Some even include scenes which involve the clothing. A boy who rebuked his knickerbockers below the knee in Music Man (1962). The image of spoiled rich kids wearing short pants suits was shown in Captain's Corageous (1937). A particualrly English look at the perd is avialable in Good Bye Mister Chips, although this film also expands the period--depending on the particular production. A humerous look at the inter-war period is vailable in Just William. A not so humerous look is Hitler Youth Quelle and Cabaret.

War Years (1939-45)

Quite a number of European fils come mind here. Empire of the Sun was set in Asia. Most were set in Europe including Europa, Europa and Hope and Glory. An American film is Follow Me Boys (1960?), although it spands the pre-war and post war period.

Post-War Years (1945-70)

A wonderful glimpse of post-War England is a available in The Magnent (1950) and Kipperbang. A look at 1950s France is Murmer of the Heart. America in the 1950s can be seen in Stand by Me and American Grafitti.

Late 20th century (1970-2000)

The rather short short pants popular for casual wear during the 1980s can be seen in Poison Ivy (198?). Another good film showing American clothing in the 1980s is Daryl. An interesting film, Man, Woman and Child touches upon both French and America clothing.

Created: August 9, 2001
Last updated: 7:33 AM 1/6/2013