Figure 1.--This cabinet card is undated, but was probably taken in the 1890s, we think in the late-90s. The studio was Charles A. Vuilles in Stirling, Pennsylvania. The boy is unidentified, but looks to be about 12-years old. He wears a double breasted suit with a high-set, but not small lapel and a floppy bow. The long stockings seem to match the suit. In the 1900s, black stockings were more common. Unlike Europe, American boys almost always wore long stockings, except in the summer when many went barefoot.

American boys for most of the 19th century wore long pants. Shortened-length pants like knee pants appeared at mid-century, but were worn by younger boys. Only in the later-19th century do we begin to see older boys wearing knee pants. We see a few 12-year olds wearing knee pants in the 1880s, but only in the 1890s do se see large numbers of boys that age wearing them and in some cases only in the later part of the decade. This was paticularly true in rural areas. . For a short period even older boys wore them. By the end of the decade and in the 1900s, it was fairly standard for 12-years olds to wear knee pants. Not all American boys wore them, but the great majority did, perhaps somewhat less commonly in rural areas. We see many European 12-year old wearing knickers, but American boys mostly wore knee pants until begiining to wear long pants. This was the case for both suits and just pants. Often a boy's casual pants were his older suit pants. Knee pants had the advantage of not wearing out at the knee. That was the first prt of long pants to go for boys.. They were even common along working-class boys, although by 12-13 they began to change to long pants after leaving school. We mostly see 12-year olds wearing knee pants with black long stockings. The exception was the summer when many boys went barefoot. The prevalence of knee pants changed sharply at the end of the 1900s when boys suddenly changed to knickers. Knickers became the dominant style in the 1910s. Knee pants did not disappear completely, but were largely ecipsed by knickers. Younger boys continued wearing a variety of knee pants outfits, but not this was not common for 12-year olds.

Chronology

American boys for most of the 19th century wore long pants. Shortened-length pants like knee pants appeared at mid-century, but were worn by younger boys. Only in the later-19th century do we begin to see older boys wearing knee pants. We see a few 12-year olds wearing knee pants in the 1880s, but only in the 1890s do se see large numbers of boys that age wearing them and in some cases only in the later part of the decade. This was paticularly true in rural areas wher older boys were more likely to wear long pants. For a short period even older boys eventually began wearing knee pants. By the end of the decade and in the 1900s, it was fairly standard for most a;; 12-years olds to wear knee pants. Not all American boys wore them, but the great majority did, perhaps somewhat less commonly in rural areas. Therewere sime family diffrences. The prevalence of knee pants changed sharply at the end of the 1900s when boys suddenly changed to knickers. Knickers became the dominant style in the 1910s. Knee pants did not disappear completely, but were largely ecipsed by knickers. Younger boys continued wearing a variety of knee pants outfits, but not this was not common for 12-year olds.

Europe

The pants worn by 12-year olds in Europe wearing knickers more than knee pnts, at least in the 19th-century. We see many European 12-year old wearing knickers, but American boys mostly wore knee pants until begiining to wear long pants.

Length

One interesting fact is that while age did affect who wore knee pants, the actual length of the pants had nothing to do with age. This was largely affected by chronological fashion trends.

Suits

American boys wore knee pants with both suits and shirt wausts. e see no differnce. Often a boy's casual pants were his older suit pants.

Utility

Knee pants had the advantage of not wearing out at the knee. That was the first part of long pants to go for boys. And 12-year olds were still an age in which bys were careless with their clohes anbd engaged in rough play.

Social Class

There were social class differences. This varied over time. When knee pants first appeard, thy were first worn by younger boys from fashionanle fashionable city families. Gradually older boys from a wider social range began wearing them. Eventually they were even common along working-class boys, although by 12-13 they began to change to long pants after leaving school.

School

We mostly see 12-year olds wearing long pants to school. This did not begin to change until the 1890s. We hen see most 12-year olds wearing knee pants in school. The major exception was boys wearing overll in rural areas, but overalls did not appear in schools until knee pants began to go out of style (about 1908). Boys that continued in school motly wore knee pnts in the 1890s and 1900s. Actually many older boys wore knee pants to sover time chool during this period. The prevalence of knee pants at school can easily be followed for 12-year olds and other ages in our individual American school section. Here you can clearly see age and demographic trends.

Hosiery

We mostly see 12-year olds wearing knee pants with black long stockings. The exception was the summer when many boys went barefoot. This was usually because the boys preferred to do so, but poverty was also a factor.

Material

We mostly see knee pants done in suiting material as part of suits. This was normally a variety of woll fabrics. The primary cotton fabric was corduroy. The photographic record and clothing catalogs suggest that wool suiting mterial was more common. After knee pants declined, we see corduroy knickers becomong a fashion mun stay for American boys.

Created: 1:40 AM 10/12/2010
Last updated: 6:29 PM 5/24/2014